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Reiss Opens 2nd Freestanding Canadian Location

PHOTO: CF SHERWAY GARDENS

British fashion brand Reiss has opened its second freestanding Canadian store as it expands its brick-and-mortar operations nationally. The store will host an opening event for the public on the evening of May 12. 

The 2,400 square foot store at Toronto’s CF Sherway Gardens follows the opening of Reiss’ first free-standing Canadian store at CF Toronto Eaton Centre in the summer of 2015. In October of this year, Reiss will open its third freestanding Canadian store at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre. 

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Reiss has also partnered with Hudson’s Bay for its Canadian expansion. Last summer, Reiss also opened men’s and women’s concessions within Hudson’s Bay’s Queen Street flagship in Toronto, with more expected to follow.

When we reported on Reiss’ Canadian expansion last summer, the company said that it is examining a number of cities in which to possibly open free-standing stores, including Vancouver, Montreal and Calgary. Reiss is seeking retail space in the 2,500 square foot to 3,500 square foot range, ideally in busy shopping centres. Larger locations are ideal, as they allow the brand to showcase its comprehensive men’s and women’s collections.

Founded in London by David Reiss in 1971, the contemporary-priced, youthful brand sells women’s and men’s apparel, as well as accessories and footwear. The company recently launched made-to-measure men’s suits at selected locations. The company continues to be solely owned by Mr. Reiss.

Massive Canadian Fashion Trade Show Launching Early Next Year

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Launching in Calgary early next year will be inaugural biannual fashion trade show, PARKSHOWEXPO, that will celebrate Canadian fashion and encourage brands and retailers to keep dollars within the country. Taking place from February 27 to March 1 of 2017, the event invites buyers, retailers, designers, brands and consumers from across the nation to participate, bringing together the fashion industry under one roof for an inclusive business-to-business fashion exchange.

More than 350 fashion brands and distributors will showcase Autumn/ Winter 2017 men’s and women’s outerwear, attire and accessories to 2500+ industry professionals. Arts, culinary and educational programming will complement the trade show allowing national and international attendees a refreshing dialogue on Canadian fashion.

“There are no current opportunities within Canada where all the members of the fashion industry can come together, and much less for the consumer or international retailers and distributors to access Canadian brands,” says Megan Szanik, co-founder and CEO of PSE “PARKSHOWEXPO is flipping the traditional model on its head. We’re gathering all members in one place so we can inspire, connect and educate our colleagues on the changing fashion business. We believe that in this economy, it’s not only smart, it’s essential for Canadian retailers to keep dollars close to home and to showcase and encourage the export of sought after fashion that is designed and made in Canada.”

Apart from industry events, the public will be invited to explore style-focused installments, including PARKSHOP – the world’s biggest Canadian brand pop-up shop.

Brands, designers and retailers interested in participating in PARKSHOWEXPO can find more details at parkshowexpo.com. 

How E-commerce is Eroding Retailer Earnings: Study

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A new study from retail consulting firm HRC Advisory provides groundbreaking insight into how online sales are eating into retailer profits in the United States, and how Canadian retailers should be trying to mitigate this effect as e-commerce becomes a larger component of their businesses. According to HRC’s CEO, Antony Karabus, Canadian retailers still have time to avoid this situation that is affecting numerous U.S. retailers.

The HRC Advisory study analyzed sales revenues for 37 of North America’s top retailers (many of whom also do business in Canada), examining growth and share of online versus brick-and-mortar retail sales. The study found that between 2011 and 2015, while online sales were growing substantially for the vast majority of retailers, many of the same retailers experienced flat to modestly declining sales in their brick-and-mortar stores over the same period.  

In some instances, the numbers were profound. The study specifically found that for 11 luxury and department store chains, the aggregate brick and mortar sales growth rate has been at negative 1% since 2011, with sales per store declining by 2.5%. To contrast, aggregate online sales for the same group grew by 178% since 2011, reaching 16.6% of total company sales in 2015 versus 6.5% in 2011. The significant online growth barely compensated for the decline in aggregate brick and mortar sales over the same period, as in-store sales still comprise the lion’s share of total sales, being 83.5% of total sales in 2015 (versus 93.5% in 2011). For 22 U.S-headquartered North American specialty apparel and beauty chains, the aggregate increase in brick and mortar sales was an anemic 3% since 2011, with sales per store declining by 5% over this period. Online sales for this group of retailers grew by 59% since 2011, reaching 17% of total company sales in 2015 versus 11.8% in 2011.

In addition to this financial research, Mr. Karabus interviewed 15 U.S Retail CEOs and CFOs to better understand the impact of e-commerce on operating earnings. Mr. Karabus determined that EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) as a percent of total sales have declined 25% percent or more for many retailers – due entirely to the combined impact of the channel shift from in-store to online sales, the high additional investments that retailers have been making to enable e-commerce and omni-channel capabilities and the much higher variable cost of servicing, completing and fulfilling e-commerce transactions.

In terms of e-commerce maturity and penetration, Canada is about two to three years behind the United States, according to Mr. Karabus, who led this significant HRC Advisory study. Having the foresight of what is happening south of the border is an advantage to Canadian retailers, Mr. Karabus noted, and he suggested solutions best suited to this market.

Given Canada’s generally sparse population density and large geographic area, the cost of fulfilling product ordered online to customer homes can be extremely expensive. Mr. Karabus therefore suggests that Canadian retailers focus omni-channel endeavours into the realm of click-and-collect, for several reasons. Besides the cost savings and efficiencies of shipping to stores for pickup, click-and-collect sees fewer returns (because the consumer can examine goods at pickup and cancel the sale while in the store if they choose to), increased engagement/relationship building with store employees, instant consumer gratification, and the opportunity to suggest a further purchase while the consumer is in-store. Picking up product is also more convenient for busy households that might not otherwise be home at the time of delivery.

The study also notes that in the United States, the rate of growth for e-commerce after a number of years of very high growth is now de-escalating — for all sectors studied, online sales growth dropped to 10.4% in 2015 from 16.3% in 2012. Although many Canadian retailers continue to see double-digit growth in online sales volume, Mr. Karabus is of the opinion that the online growth rates will naturally peak and start declining in the same way in 2-3 years’ time as has already occurred south of the border.

As part of the report, HRC Advisory made five recommendations for retailers to mitigate potential negative consequences of e-commerce on retailers:  

1) Maximize the value of their local assets — which is a huge advantage over Amazon and the pure play online retailers.

2) Re-calibrate their store fleet footprints and close or re-purpose weaker locations and outlets to provide additional fulfillment assets, thereby increasing their productivity and lowering variable costs.

3) Objectively examine store and support infrastructure costs and make informed choices as to where and how and when to invest in digital and brick and mortar channels.

4) Re-examine breadth and depth of free shipping and return policies. Do not try to beat Amazon at its own game.

5) Fine-tune price-matching policies to reduce negative impact on gross margins without losing the sale.

Furthermore, Mr. Karabus says that strong Canadian retailers can utilize click-and-collect to drive increases in market share. Leading Canadian retailers which are performing extremely well, may be able to increase market share from weaker competitors as they further drive new and existing consumers to stores through online channels and in-store pickup, he said.

Louise Wendling Honoured with RCC Lifetime Achievement Award

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Retail Council of Canada (RCC) has announced that Louise Wendling, former Country Manager and Chair of the Board of Costco Wholesale Canada, is the 2016 recipient of RCC’s Lifetime Achievement Award. She will be presented the award at this year’s Excellence in Retailing Awards Gala on May 31, as part of RCC’s RCC STORE Conference being held on May 31 and June 1 of this year in Toronto. 

“RCC is delighted to recognize Louise Wendling with a Lifetime Achievement Award,” said Diane J. Brisebois, President & CEO of RCC. “Louise has been an integral part of the Costco brand in Canada, leading the company to record growth and as an innovator and customer centric organization. Over the course of her 28-year career with Costco, she has garnered an enormous amount of respect from her retail colleagues across the country.”

The Lifetime Achievement Award recognizes a family or an individual in retail who has demonstrated outstanding business success and community service throughout his/her career and who has left an indelible mark on the industry. Ms. Wendling and Costco Wholesale Canada join a long line of passionate merchants across Canada receiving the award, such as Founders of Roots Canada, Michael Budman and Don Green; Former President & CEO of Sobeys Inc., Bill McEwan; Founder of The Brick Warehouse Corporation, Dr. William H. Comrie; President & CEO of LCBO, Bob Peter and most recently, The Billes Family, Founders of Canadian Tire Corporation. 

Louise Wendling began her 38-year career in retailing with the Hudson’s Bay Company. In 1986, she and two other Hudson’s Bay colleagues founded Price Club, where she developed and implemented the warehouse club concept and culture. She was named Vice-President Merchandising, Eastern Canada in 1986, and then promoted to Senior Vice-President, Eastern Canada in 1994. In 2001, she was named Country Manager for Costco Wholesale Canada, in addition to holding the Canadian Board Chairmanship and an Executive Committee member of Costco Wholesale International.

Ms. Wendling has been a driving force in Costco’s community involvement through her support of the Children’s Miracle Network, the United Way, the Breakfast Club of Canada and other non-profit children’s programs across Canada. She has served on the boards of Operations Enfants Soleil, the Children’s Hospital of Eastern Ontario and as Vice-Chair Retail Council of Canada.

The Lifetime Achievement Award will be presented to Louise Wendling at the Excellence in Retailing Awards Gala on May 31. The Gala, part of STORE Conference 2016, will take place at the Toronto Congress Centre from 6:15 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. ET on May 31. For further information and to purchase tickets: STOREConference.ca. 

Ivanhoé Camabridge Reveals List of Tsawwassen Mills Tenants

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Landlord Ivanhoé Cambridge has revealed a partial list of tenants set to open at its Tsawwassen Mills hybrid-outlet shopping centre in South Delta BC, south of Vancouver. The massive 1.2 million square foot centre is scheduled to open on October 5, 2016. 

A total of 13 anchor tenants were revealed, including two we’ve previously discussed. Saks Fifth Avenue’s off-price division Saks OFF 5TH will open a 32,687 location at the centre, which will be the first OFF 5TH for the Greater Vancouver area. Other anchors confirmed for Tsawwassen Mills will include:

  • Bass Pro Shops (145,000 square feet, first in B.C.)
  • DSW Designer Shoe Warehouse (one of two confirmed Vancouver-area stores)
  • Forever 21
  • H&M
  • Pro Hockey Life (first in B.C.)
  • Marshalls
  • Nike Factory Store
  • Old Navy
  • Sport Chek
  • Saks Fifth Avenue Saks OFF 5TH (32,687 square feet, first confirmed for B.C.)
  • Tommy Hilfiger Outlet
  • Urban Planet/West 49
  • Winners

According to the Tsawwassen Mills’ website, a total of 16 retailers will eventually anchor the centre. 

Ivanhoé Cambridge has also confirmed that the following stores will be opening at Tsawwassen Mills this October: 

  • Aritzia
  • Banana Republic Factory Store
  • Brooks Brothers Factory Store
  • Browns
  • Calvin Klein Outlet
  • Gap Factory Store
  • GUESS Outlet
  • Ever New
  • The Outlet by Harry Rosen
  • L’Occitane en Provence
  • Lucky Brand Jeans Outlet
  • Marc Cain

The Outlet by Harry Rosen is notable, as it will be the third in Canada, and the first outside of the Toronto area. Harry Rosen also operates outlets at Ivanhoé Cambridge’s Vaughan Mills, just north of Toronto, as well as at Mississauga’s Heartland Town Centre. 

A substantial food component will be featured, including a 1,100 seat food court and several restaurants. Milestones and Montana’s Bar & Grill will also operate locations at Tsawwassen Mills.

“As Canada’s leading outlet developer, Ivanhoé Cambridge continues to redefine the country’s outlet and value-oriented retail industry,” said Roman Drohomirecki, Executive Vice President and Chief Operating Officer, Ivanhoé Cambridge Retail. “We are proud to be developing Tsawwassen Mills, British Columbia’s next retail destination for the region and for visitors to Greater Vancouver.”

Construction began on the massive centre in January of 2014, which is located at Highway 17 and 52nd Street in South Delta — about 30 minutes north of the Washington State border and less than 5 km from the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal. 

Ivanhoé Cambridge anticipates that approximately 3,000 full time and part time jobs will be created as a result of the Mills project —  in addition to a further 1,800 jobs created during core building construction and 4,500 jobs during peak construction.

More retailers will be announced closer to the centre’s fall 2016 opening date. 

Rockport to Expand Canadian Outlet Operations

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American footwear brand Rockport will open seven more Canadian outlet locations, according to representative broker Jeff Berkowtiz of Aurora Realty Consultants. 

Mr. Berkowitz said several deals are still in the works, though he was able to confirm two Rockport outlets set to open this year — one at Tsawwassen Mills in Delta, BC, and the other at the McArthurGlen Designer Outlets just south of Vancouver. Tsawwassen Mills opens to the public in October of this year, and McArthurGlen opened to much fanfare in the summer of 2015.

Last year, we reported that Rockport was also expanding its base of full-priced store locations, including several new concept stores reflecting a brighter aesthetic.   

Founded in Massachusetts in 1972, Rockport is known for comfortable, well-made footwear. In January of 2015, Boston-based athletic shoe maker New Balance and Berkshire Partners bought Rockport for U.S. $280 million. Aurora Realty Consultants represents Rockport across Canada, specifically represented by Jeffrey Berkowitz.

Shinola to Open 1st Freestanding Canadian Store this Summer

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Upscale made-in-the-USA lifestyle brand Shinola will open its first Canadian location this summer in Toronto. The 1,800 square foot store will be located at the northeast corner of Queen Street West and Ossington Avenue, at 1000 Queen Street West. 

The retail space was formerly occupied by youthful fashion retailer Stussy and a coffee shop, both of which closed last year. Toronto will be Shinola’s 16th store location worldwide, and only its second outside of the U.S. — a London, U.K. store opened in the fall of 2014. Brokerage Think Retail‘s Tony Flanz represented Shinola in the Toronto deal. 

Shinola was founded in Detroit in 2011, and specializes in watches, bicycles, leather goods, pet accessories, and apparel. Its name is a nod to the former Shinola shoe polish company that operated in the early to mid 1900’s. The company is now owned and operated by Bedrock Brands, a privately owned Texas investment group, and was launched by Tom Kartsotis, one of the founders of the Fossil Group retail conglomerate. Most products are made in the United States, though some watch parts come from Switzerland.

More Canadian Shinola locations could follow. According to Think Retail’s website, Shinola is seeking retail space in Canada for stores in the 1,250 to 2,500 square foot range, ideally on high streets.

All photos are via Shinola. 

Superdry Partners with Brokerage to Open Canadian Stores

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Canada could soon see its first freestanding Superdry stores. Aurora Realty Consultants is working with Superdry’s Canadian distributor to secure store locations for the popular U.K. brand in Canada. 

Superdry was founded in Cheltenham, U.K. in 1985, and its first store opened in London’s Covent Garden in 2004. The brand, known for its vintage Americana styling, Japanese graphics and British tailoring, sells men’s and women’s fashions as well as accessories. Superdry has grown to become a fashion powerhouse, with annual revenues in excess of $900 million Canadian dollars and hundreds of stores worldwide. Superdry operates freestanding full-price and outlet store locations in the United states, and is available in Canada at retailers such as Hudson’s Bay.

Distributor Manhattan International has the rights to wholesale Superdry in Canada, and it also has rights to Superdry’s Canadian retail operations. The company is working with Aurora Realty Consultants to find retail space for Superdry’s Canadian stores, which will ideally be in the 2,500 to 3,000 square foot range in enclosed malls as well as streetfront locations. Jeffrey Berkowitz [V-Card] is the contact at Aurora Realty Consultants for Superdry in Canada. 

AllSaints Opens 1st Montreal Store [Photos]

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British fashion brand AllSaints opened its fourth Canadian location this week in Montreal. The 2,500 square foot store is located at 2138 rue de la Montagne, south of Holt Renfrew and the Ritz Carlton Hotel, and a block north of Ogilvy. 

Retail Insider Montreal correspondent Maxime Frechette took photos of the new store, which features exposed brick/stone walls and concrete flooring, contrasting with metal and glass fixtures. Men’s and women’s AllSaints fashions are showcased, as well as a selection of footwear and accessories. The store was designed in-house. 

AllSaints is in the process of opening stores across Canada. The company opened its third Canadian store on February 24 of this year at CF Toronto Eaton Centre, measuring about 1,500 square feet. AllSaints’ first Canadian location opened in April of 2013 at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre, measuring 6,600 square feet in the mall’s southwest wing which opened in the fall of 2012. A second Canadian store, measuring 2,237 square feet, opened in June of 2015 at Vancouver’s CF Pacific Centre. 

AllSaints was founded in 1994 in Spitalfields, U.K., and the brand has grown to over 70 free-standing retail locations worldwide. It has free-standing U.S. locations in major cities including New York City, Boston, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, San Francisco, Miami, Washington, D.C., Santa Monica and Seattle, as well as four outlets. It also operates concessions within many American Bloomingdale’s locations. The brand retails menswear, womenswear, footwear, and accessories. The brand is known for being ‘edgy and directional’ with a muted palette dominated by blacks, browns, whites, and grays. The company’s retail stores feature interiors of exposed brick, weathered wood and metal. 

Harry Rosen Reveals Overhauled/Expanded Montreal Flagship [Photos]

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Upscale Toronto-based menswear retailer Harry Rosen has opened departments in its enlarged Montreal flagship. The store was expanded from 22,000 square feet to 33,000 square feet as part of a $15 million store overhaul. 

The store features several impressive shop-in-stores, including Tom Ford, Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, DSquared2, Dolce & Gabbana, Canali, Brunello Cucinelli, as well as Harry Rosen’s first Moncler shop-in-store. Harry Rosen also features a new ‘avant-garde’ designer department featuring brands such as Jil Sander, Costume National, Lanvin and Maison Martin Margiela. 

An upgraded exterior with black branded awnings and signage was recently revealed, incorporating the facade of the mall’s former Club Monaco, as well as valet parking at the store’s Peel Street entrance. The store’s previous awnings were blue. 

Montreal’s Harry Rosen, located at Les Cours Mont Royal at 1455 Peel Street, opened in 1999 and at the time, was the second-largest in the chain (following the then 32,000 square foot Bloor Street location in Toronto). Since its opening, Harry Rosen stores have become larger. In the fall of 2008, its Bloor Street flagship expanded from 32,000 to 54,000 square feet, making it one of North America’s largest upscale men’s stores. In 2010, its downtown Calgary store expanded from about 18,000 square feet to just over 30,000 square feet. Its Yorkdale Shopping Centre location is completing an expansion that will see it grow to occupy almost 31,000 square feet.

Les Cours Mount Royal is an upscale Downtown Montreal retail centre that was once a large hotel. Built in 1922, the then-Mount Royal Hotel was the largest in the British Empire, with 1,100 rooms. In 1988, about 200,000 square feet of the hotel’s lower portion was converted to retail.

Most of the photos above and below were taken by our Montreal correspondent Maxime Frechette.