In recent months, with more headlines bringing attention to active shootings and aggressive customers in stores, there is greater appreciation of the critical role retail loss prevention professionals play in both protecting people and assets.
To understand the extent of retailers growing concerns about violence in retail stores, unconscious bias, data security threats, digital payment fraud, organized retail crime networks, and cyber threats and shrink, Retail Council of Canada is asking its members participate in the Loss Prevention Shrink Survey.
Results of the survey will be shared on September 24, at Retail Secure 2019, Retail Council of Canada Loss Prevention conference where leading security, protection and prevention experts will present best practices and improvement strategies for retailers.
Retail Secure 2019 will be held at the International Centre in Mississauga.
Some of the speakers and sessions at Retail Secure 2019 will include:
For more information on RETAIL SECURE 2019, being held during the day on September 24th, please visit: rcclpconference.ca/agenda
This week Craig and Lee talk about Toronto’s Bloor-Yorkville, Hamleys, St. John and Fashion Rentals.
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US-based women’s luxury fashion brand St. John Knits will open a standalone storefront on Toronto’s Mink Mile. It will be the second standalone St. John boutique in Canada, joining a Vancouver store that has operated in the city for years.
The Toronto St. John boutique will open in a 2,500 square foot retail space at 130 Bloor Street West, located between Gucci and Intermix. The space that St. John will move into was once occupied by French luxury brand Hermes before it relocated to a flagship space nearby in late 2017. Most recently, athletic brand Peloton occupied the same retail space temporarily before finding a permanent location across the street.
St. John Knits is popular amongst the ‘ladies who lunch’ set and its location on Toronto’s Mink Mile could be very successful as a result. The stretch of Bloor Street between Yonge Street and Avenue Road is home to several luxury brand flagship stores as well as Holt Renfrew’s corporate flagship location. The St. John brand is known for its classic wool and rayon knits that include Chanel-inspired jackets and extensive use of primary colours.
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ST. JOHN WILL MOVE INTO A RETAIL SPACE AT 130 BLOOR ST. W. IN TORONTO THAT WAS ONCE OCCUPIED BY HERMES AND MOST RECENTLY A PELOTON POP-UP SHOP. IMAGE: CITYFEET
Vancouver was the first city in Canada that St. John knits opened a standalone storefront more than 15 years ago. Its first location occupied the Burrard Street and West Georgia Street corner of the retail podium of the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver. St. John relocated to a 3,000 square foot space in the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver with its main entrance from within the hotel and with window frontage onto Hornby Street in the spring of 2014— the space was once home to Griffins restaurant. French luxury brand Dior ended up taking the corner retail space formerly occupied by St. John, as well as an adjacent retail space, service desk and second level space to create a jaw-dropping 9,600 square foot Dior flagship that opened in the summer of 2015.
St. John at the Fairmont Hoel Vancouver in September, 2019. Photos: Lee Rivett
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The St. John brand is headquartered in Irvine, California, and was founded in 1962 by model Marie St. John and her husband, Robert Gray. While modelling in Los Angeles, Ms. St. John hand-knit straight skirts and matching short-sleeved tops to wear, and her fellow models began wearing the designs. Robert Gray, who was Ms. St. John’s fiancé at the time, showed the collection to retailer Bullocks, who picked up the line by ordering 84 dresses. St. John grew quickly as women embraced the fashion line, with knit designs that proved to be flattering to a wide range of body types.
German fashion brand Escada bought an 80% share of St. John in 1990 for $45 million. St. John used the money to launch a US boutique expansion and in 1993, St. John became a publicly owned company. Daughter Kelly Gray became CEO of the company after Robert Gray’s retirement in 2002 and Kelly was also the face of the brand for a time as a model in various advertisements. St. John was purchased by a private equity firm in 2005 and after a couple of years away, the Gray family returned after St. John experienced declining sales in their absence.
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St. John Knits was once a staple brand in upscale department stores throughout the United States, as well as at prestigious multi-brand retailers. Jacobson’s, Lord & Taylor, I. Magnin, Elder-Beerman and others carried the line for years, while many Nordstrom stores in the United States featured dedicated St. John departments that were among the most productive spaces in Nordstrom stores. While the St. John brand isn’t as broadly distributed as it once was, it still has a following and can be found in prestigious retailers globally.
Nordstrom still carries the St. John line, including in Canada in Nordstrom’s CF Toronto Eaton Centre store. Hudson’s Bay also carries St. John in women’s luxury department ‘The Room’, which can be found in Bay flagships in Toronto and Vancouver. Canadian retailer Holt Renfrew also once carried an extensive assortment of the St. John brand.
The same stretch of Bloor Street West is home to impressive flagships for brands such as Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Burberry, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and others, and there are whispers that Valentino may open a flagship store nearby. Holt Renfrew, which operates a 190,000 square foot flagship store at 50 Bloor Street West, is also undergoing an overhaul that includes interior renovations and new leased concession boutiques, with a new store facade expected to be completed early next year. Yorkville Avenue, located two blocks north of Bloor Street West, has seen the addition of flagship locations for luxury brands including Chanel, Christian Louboutin, Off-White, Brunello Cucinelli, Versace and next month, Stone Island will open its first Canadian storefront.
Given Bloor-Yorkville’s proximity to wealthy Toronto neighbourhoods including Rosedale, South Hill/Summerhill and Forest Hill, St. John Knits may have made a smart move by choosing to open at 130 Bloor Street West. The Bloor-Yorkville Area, itself, is home to an affluent population that is growing rapidly with the addition of several new residential condominium and rental towers. One challenge the area is currently facing is a lack of parking, which some retailers have said is resulting in challenging sales in the area. As more valet parking is added to Bloor-Yorkville, parking may become less of an issue and may give the area a boost as well as an edge as the area competes with Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre for wealthy shoppers.
April Sabral is on a mission to inspire retailers to value their best asset – their people.
After working within retail for over two decades and developing teams to their highest potential, Sabral has launched an online education site called retailu which offers accessible and affordable leadership development programs for retail managers.
Sabral, founder and president of the company, said, “retailu is an e-learning platform and library of resources for retail managers. Many retail store managers start their career through default. They may have time or money constraints which don’t allow them to go to college or university or they haven’t decided what they want to do as a career, so they fall into retail and many stay. The idea was to make leadership development accessible and affordable for all retail managers so that they can afford to buy courses and develop themselves. I myself landed in retail as a young mum, time and money was tight.”
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April Sabral
Sabral, who is from the UK originally, is a senior retail executive with more than 25 years in various sales and operations roles. She’s worked with stellar brands such as Paul Smith, Starbucks, Gap, Banana Republic, Holt Renfrew, Apple and David’s Tea. She is also a John C. Maxwell certified leadership coach and Shift Business Coach (WBAC).
“My entire retail career has been in sales and operations as well as working very closely with HR, training and development,” says Sabral, who is based in Toronto. “Having worked as a Sales Associate all the way up to Vice President, I understand the skills required to develop as a retail leader.”
The concept for retailu began three years ago as a passion project – a blog. Her vision at the time was to share her personal leadership life lessons with other retail managers, in an effort “to inspire them and see retail as a great career choice, where they can make a difference,” she says.
Educational programs of this kind are extremely important. They open up limitless opportunities for people in different fields. Online training courses, educational platforms, and even cheap paper writing resume service make life easier for today’s young professionals.
“I have worked for amazing brands and was fortunate to have worked with leaders that invested in me. I now feel a sense of responsibility to share those lessons which have now turned into this amazing library of courses on retailu.ca”.
Sabral says anyone can go to the retailu website and buy a course individually if they want to further their development as the price points are very affordable, being between $25 – $225 for each course. “There is also a ton of free resources for retail managers, such as her personal Interview Guide,” she notes.
“It started as a concept for individual users; however we’re also doing business to business now. We’re selling enterprise bundles and subscriptions. The idea came about as every retailer is trying to figure out ways to save money due to the transformation of online to bricks and mortar.”
The retailu website was developed by innovative design agency Volume 18, which is based in Halifax.
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Sabral’s retailu provides an affordable way to support ongoing career development for retail teams. More than 80% of retail sales still come from stores, which means that retail teams need exceptional training and development programs, she says. As retail becomes even tougher to recruit for, providing a growth and development plan will become even more crucial in retailer recruitment and retention strategy.
She goes on to say, “retailu gives you retail-specific tailored training at an affordable price to enhance what you already have and focuses on the leadership development piece, which is lacking.”
“Facts show that people leave jobs because of the leader they work for or a lack of growth and development. We want to provide a service that can help retailers provide leadership development for all of their retail managers.”
Sabral says the initiative can add value to retailers. Engaged employees create engaging customer experiences, and that translates to sales growth. It also translates into long-term employee loyalty.
Sabral grew up in retail and says that she knows how important leadership development is to the success of a retail leader. She is highly passionate about what she does and has a proven track record of developing teams to their highest potential, she explained.
The retailu courses are short videos, under five minutes in a podcast style so busy managers can learn on the go, learn at their own pace or network with other retail managers to find solutions and coaching for their most significant challenges through the chat forums.
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Courses include a wide variety of topics such as Principles of Communication, How to Be a Successful Coach, The Art of Conflict Management, How to Build Resilience and Agility Into Your Leadership, Developing Your Problem Solving Skills, and Multi-Site Management.
After working in Quebec for the last ten years, Sabral says that she sees the importance of providing French courses for national retailers, which will also become available this fall.
The gap and the need she saw was to help retail managers grow in their personal and professional skills and to be ready and prepared for promotions in their career to different levels.
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“It’s retail-specific and the reason why I’ve stuck with retail is because number one I know it. Retail basically has its own language. Most people who work in retail are not highly academic, so when you’re training in retail you have got to keep the language simple. You have to keep the courses visual and very short because everybody wants to be on the sales floor and not sitting in a room for five hours, learning in between customers can be very effective,” says Sabral.
She also offers retailers live training and leadership development workshops.
“The transformation (in retail) today is happening at light speed.While introducing and enhancing technology, re-inventing store experiences and trying to figure out how to drive sales are all on the high priority list, the whole people piece kind of gets missed. However, we need to remember people build brands and everyone should have a people strategy that is active and includes career development as a big piece of their actions. Millennials want to grow in their careers, ask any manager in retail what they want more of? And they will tell you more personal development.” adds Sabral.
HAMLEY’S REGENT STREET STORE IN LONDON, ENGLAND PHOTO: WESTEND.COM
Iconic toy retailer Hamleys, which was founded in London UK in 1760, will be entering the Canadian market by opening stores as part of global expansion. That’s according to news reports from India stating that Reliance Retail, which acquired Hamleys several months ago, plans to open Hamleys stores in the United States as well as in Canada.
The expansion of Hamleys into Canada could create serious competition for homegrown brands including Mastermind Toys, as well as Toys ‘R’ Us which itself is launching new concept stores in the Canadian market after the bankruptcy last year of its US counterpart. Hamleys could also impact toy sales in multi-brand retailers offering toys as a category.
Hamleys was founded in London in 1760 and is said to be the world’s oldest toy retailer. Founder William Hamley called the store ‘Noah’s Ark’ and the first store, located on London’s High Holborn, was relocated to its current site on Regent Street in 1881. The seven-floor flagship store boasts more than 50,000 lines of toys and is one of London’s most prominent tourist attractions, with more than five million annual visitors.
The company has changed hands several times. Icelandic investment company Baugur Group acquired Hamleys in 2003 and after Baugur collapsed, Icelandic bank Landsbankinn took over Hamleys. French toy retailer Groupe Legend bought Hamleys for GBP 60 million in 2012 and in 2015, Hong Kong-based footwear and fashion conglomerate C.banner acquired the Hamleys toy chain for GBP 100 million. Hamleys lost money under C.banner’s ownership.
Reliance Retail, which is headquartered in Mumbai, closed on the deal to buy Hamleys from C.banner International on July 18 of this year. Reliance Brands appears to be serious in its efforts to expand its roster of partner brands globally. Reliance acquired Hamleys for a reported GBP 67.96 million in an all-cash deal.
Hamleys currently has 167 stores in 18 countries. Reliance Retail has the master franchise for Hamleys in India and currently operates 88 stores in 29 cities across the country.
Reliance Retail, which was founded in 2006 by billionaire Mukesh Ambani, is the largest retailer in India in terms of revenue. The company’s retail offerings include foods, grocery stores, apparel, footwear, lifestyle, home improvement products, electronic goods, and farm implements and inputs. The company’s revenue is about US $10 billion annually with nearly 4,000 stores spanning 18 million square feet in 750 cities.
Parent company Reliance Industries Limited also focuses on petroleum, natural gas, petrochemicals, telecommunications, media, consumer goods, consumer durables, travel services, entertainment and leisure, health products and even educational products and services. Reliance Industries Limited, which was founded by Mukesh Ambani’s father Dhirubhai Ambani in 1973, has revenue exceeding $90 billion annually.
Reliance Retail has a portfolio of more than 40 international brands with more than 660 store locations. Brands range from major luxury labels to more affordable offerings. For the Indian market, Reliance Retail partnered to distribute luxury brands such as Burberry, Bally, Bottega Veneta, Canali, Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Furla, Hugo Boss, Jimmy Choo, Ferragamo and others. Reliance Retail also partners with brands such as Diesel, G-Star Raw, Michael Kors, Muji, Pottery Barn, Steve Madden, Scotch & Soda and Marks & Spencers for Indian distribution as well.
Billionaire Mukesh Ambani is the founder of Reliance Retail. He’s the richest person in Asia with an estimated net worth exceeding $50 billion, making him the 13th wealthiest person in the world, according to Forbes Magazine. He’s also the wealthiest person in the world outside of North America and Europe, and is the first non-American ever to have been appointed as a Director of Bank of America.
He resides in the Antilia Building in Mumbai, which is the most expensive house in the world and is valued at more than US $2 billion. Architecture firm Hirsch Bedner Associates told Forbes Magazine that the residence cost nearly US $3 billion to build when it was completed in 2010. The 27-storey house is 568 feet tall (with some very high floor-to-ceiling heights) housing 600 staff, a private movie theatre, swimming pool, fitness centre, three helipads and a garage for 160 cars. Antilia House is situated on a 1.12-acre plot on ‘billionaires row’ Altamount Road in the city’s prestigious Cumballa Hill area. Buckingham Palace in London, which is technically not a private residence, is the only home to be valued higher.
ANTILIA HOUSE IN MUMBAI: THE 400,000 SQUARE FOOT PRIVATE RESIDENCE IS SAID TO BE VALUED AT MORE THAN $2BILLION. PHOTO: JONATHAN BECKER PHOTO: WESTEND.COM
We are awaiting further details pertaining to Hamleys Canadian expansion. Given its ownership, Hamleys North American expansion could be aggressive and could consist of standalone stores as well as shop-in-stores in host retailers. Hamleys’ expansion could be disruptive to toy retailers operating in this country, as well as multi-brand retailers carrying toys as a category. Toys R Us Canada, which is innovating by opening smaller stores while embracing experiential retail, is attempting to gain market share after the bankruptcy of its US parent company. Education-focused Mastermind Toys may be more insulated from competition from Hamleys, given the unique products offered in Mastermind stores.
Retailers such as Walmart and even Loblaw-owned Superstore feature toy departments and depending on the extensiveness of Hamleys’ expansion, both could be impacted. As well, New York City-based FAO Schwarz partnered with Canadian retailer Hudson’s Bay to open shop-in-stores last year, though its product selection in Hudson’s Bay appears to be limited as of late. FAO Swartz partnered with Hudson Group in the spring of 2018 to open FAO Swartz-branded airport shops and the brand hasn’t made its way into Canada’s urban centres other than through its Hudson’s Bay partnership.
We’ll follow up on this story with further details on Hamleys’ Canadian expansion when we receive more details.
Calgary-based Royop, a commercial development and property management company, has started construction of its first phase of the regional development Township which will include initially about 300,000 square feet of retail space.
And the developer has already lined up an impressive list of retailers for the project’s first phase, a $125-million mixed-use development in the deep south of Calgary, which spans 60 acres and will include 1.5 million square feet of retail, office, residential, hospitality, entertainment and food and beverage space.
“Township will be a complete community with a heavy focus on celebrating local businesses, providing everything a Calgarian would want in one place. It’s not just a spot to shop, but a hub where you’ll want to try the latest in boutique fitness or catch up with friends at your favourite craft brewery,” said Jeremy Thal, Royop’s president and CEO. “From pop-up farmers’ markets in the summer to outdoor public skating rinks in the winter, we’ll be bringing the community to life all year long.”
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Thal revealed to Retail Insider the following retailers and businesses who have signed up for space at the new Township development: a traditional Sobeys grocery store, 45,000 square feet; Bed Bath & Beyond, 26,000 square feet; buybuy BABY, 17,000 square feet; Winners, 26,000 square feet; BrightPath Child Care & Daycare Centre, 20,000 square feet.
Thal said there will also be a Canadian Brewhouse, a Starbucks, and an A&W and more than 200,000 square feet of other space is committed to negotiated offers to lease or letters of intent.
“You start with the anchor tenants which we’ve done and then we start to bring in all the smaller concepts and local businesses, which we are working on now. Round two of leasing,” explained Thal.
Construction has started with Ledcor the general contractor. Businesses are expected to open in the Spring of 2021.
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Township is located at Macleod Trail and 210th Avenue Southeast, near Highway 22X and the Ring Road which is under construction. It’s in an area that has seen tremendous population growth in recent years with more to come in the near future.
TREVOR THOMAS, VICE PRESIDENT OF RETAIL FOR JLL
Trevor Thomas, Vice President of retail for , which is leasing the Township retail project, said the location is ideal due to its accessibility off of Macleod Trail and the Ring Road when it is completed.
“When the Ring Road is completed, it’s just going to open up the market to that much more people,” he said. “The accessibility is important. But what we’re doing here with Township . . . is we’re really creating something never seen in Calgary before. It’s not just your typical power centre. This shopping centre really is going to be the definition of mixed-use.
“We’ve got the retail. We will have office. We will have residential. We will have the entertainment factor. But aside from that we’ll also have the public realm where there’s going to be a calendar of events which is going to be drawing people to Township on a regular basis . . . This is really going to be the epicentre for south Calgary and everything we’ve seen, and everything that Royop has provided us with drawings and plans, it’s really shaping up to be that destination.”
The project will also feature larger-than-life art installations and a unique combination of services and community spaces featuring immersive year-round programming with core and experiential shopping.
“We really want to create a community where people of all ages can come together and experience something new each and every time and redefine a modern community,” said Thal.
He said Royop is back to the drawing board currently to determine how the rest of the project will unfold. The company will be looking for residential partners towards the end of this year.
“We could see phase two commence construction probably the summer 2021,” he said, adding the project will likely include a 40,000-square-foot professional building.
“There’s demand for seniors (housing). There’s demand for condos. There’s demand for purpose-built rentals. There’s demand for towns (townhomes). Add to the whole idea of creating a township.”
Royop’s portfolio includes 75 Alberta properties in Calgary, Cochrane, Lethbridge, Strathmore, Red Deer, Medicine Hat, Edmonton, Airdrie, and Fort McMurray.
Commercial real estate company recently released that provides an optimistic overview on the rapidly changing area. Industry expert Dianne Lemm, Executive Vice President of JLL’s Canadian retail division, says that she expects the area to become even more of a world-class retail node as the area transforms with an unprecedented amount of construction and new leasing activity.
That includes an overhaul to the Manulife Centre commercial podium at 55 Bloor Street West that, this fall, will see the addition of Canada’s first Eataly location. Holt Renfrew’s flagship at 50 Bloor Street West is also seeing an overhaul that includes new luxury brand shop-in-store concessions as well as a new facade that will be revealed in early 2020. Other developments in the area, including new retail space as well as the addition of thousands of new residential units, will create a world-class district that will rival the likes of Mayfair in London and surpass that of Chicago’s famed Gold Coast.
“I believe that the Bloor-Yorkville node will stand up against the leading high streets around the world,” said JLL’s Dianne Lemm. “The incredible continuing development of premium residential density in the immediate area, as well as strong tourism, should make the Bloor-Yorkville node thrive,” she added.
lays out relevant data on Toronto’s Bloor-Yorkville node, noting that the luxury stretch of Bloor Street West between Yonge Street and Avenue Road boasts Canada’s highest retail lease rates, which averaged in 2018 about $325 per square foot, putting Bloor Street ahead of Robson Street in Vancouver as well as in line with upscale streets such as Newbury Street in Boston, and Lincoln Road in Miami. The only retail corridors in North America surpassing Bloor Street’s luxury run include the upper run of Fifth Avenue in New York City, the Rodeo Drive/Triangle in Beverly Hills, Union Square in San Francisco, and North Michigan Avenue in Chicago, according to JLL’s study.
“Toronto is the most active real estate city in North America with more operating tower cranes than New York, Los Angeles and Chicago combined. Considering Bloor-Yorkville’s proximity to Toronto’s wealthier neighbourhoods such as Rosedale, The Annex and Forest Hill, it is not surprising that the delta in rents between these two areas is smaller than it’s ever been”, said Tim Sanderson, Executive Vice President at JLL.
Dianne Lemm says that she expects retail rents in the area to remain strong as they increase on up-and-coming streets such as Yorkville Avenue however, we are seeing a reduction in the Net Rents as an off-set as the Realty Taxes soar in the area. On a gross basis however, the rents remain high. Luxury brands such as Chanel, Brunello Cucinelli and Versace have all opened on Yorkville Avenue, and the clustering has resulted in even more opportunities for high-end brands looking to open in the area. “The more encompassing node now includes a stronger Yorkville Village shopping complex as well as a thriving Yorkville Avenue and great retail spanning along Bloor Street West from Yonge Street to Avenue Road. There is more relevant space today than in years past, and I believe that we are on the cusp of a flood of retail leasing activity in the Bloor-Yorkville node,” Ms. Lemm went on to say.
The JLL study describes how Yorkville Avenue’s transformation kicked-off in 2016 when luxury footwear and accessory retailer Christian Louboutin opened on the street. That was soon followed by Off-White and Chanel, and more recently Brunello Cucinelli and Versace. The stretch of Yorkville Avenue between the Hazelton Hotel at 118 Yorkville Avenue and Bellair Street has seen rents nearly double over the course of three years, now averaging between $150 and $230 per square foot. First Capital Realty has been instrumental in developing Yorkville Avenue and will continue to do so with new developments at 101 Yorkville Avenue, as well as adding new tenants to the street’s former Diesel and Anthropologie storefronts.
The Mink Mile stretch of Bloor Street, between Yonge Street and Avenue Road is home to more than half of all global retailers in the node, according to the study. It encompasses almost 24% of retailers that are either classified as being luxury retailers or ‘luxury lite’. Yorkville Avenue boasts almost 20% of retailers being either luxury or ‘luxury lite’ retailers, while Cumberland Street trails the two. In the Bloor-Yorkville node, the study states that 30.2% of retailers are in the luxury price point, with a further 14.2% being ‘luxury lite’. A further 23.1% of retailers in the area are at a ‘high’ price point with the remainder being mid-priced brands including 8.6% being low priced/discount retailers. Apparel and accessories dominate the node with 37.2% of tenants, with cosmetics and beauty trailing at 23.4%. Dining is the next biggest category for the Bloor-Yorkville node, representing almost 20% of the retail mix.
Since the early 1990s, Bloor Street West has been Toronto’s primary luxury street in terms of brands opening flagship stores. Yorkville Avenue is giving it a run for its money as of late. Some industry professionals compare Bloor Street West to New York City’s Fifth Avenue or Chicago’s North Michigan Avenue ‘Magnificent Mile’, while Yorkville Avenue has been compared to Madison Avenue in New York City or Oak Street in Chicago.
“Luxury brands are choosing both Bloor Street and Yorkville Avenue to open flagship stores. Yorkville Avenue is able to provide some freestanding, build-to-suit opportunities that have been attractive to some luxury brands on a street that provides a more intimate, boutique environment. The more conventional retail at the base of office and residential buildings is the more typical format along Bloor Street”, Ms. Lemm said.
Bloor-Yorkville will see the addition of a considerable amount of new retail space north of Holt Renfrew’s flagship, which includes new mixed-use developments along Cumberland Street and Yorkville Avenue between Yonge Street and Bay Street. The JLL study notes that these projects will add about 270,000 square feet of new retail space to the existing 2.2 million square feet of retail space in the core. Opportunities for a range of retailers, including luxury and more affordable options, could see the area become a major shopping draw. Kingsett Capital will overhaul the Cumberland Terrace complex at 2 Bloor Street West, for example, which will add new retail space as well as three towers with office and residential units, and a public square in the renamed ‘Cumberland Square’.
“I expect that there will be a continuation of luxury, ‘affordable luxury’, and globally recognized street brands that will move into the area, as well as incredible food and beverage offerings. There’s a possibility that on the east end of the node, some of the popular Asian brands and disruptor brands entering the market will locate in that area of the Bloor-Yorkville node, as they may not be able to pay the asking rents for the 50-yard line opportunities nearby,” said Ms. Lemm.
Not all of the retailers in the Bloor-Yorkville node are luxury brands. Vancouver-based women’s fashion retailer Artizia recently unveiled an impressive expanded flagship store near the Yonge and Bloor intersection that includes a coffee concept with its own entrance onto Bloor Street. Ms. Lemm represents Aritzia and assisted in the negotiation of the lease deal for the store’s expansion.
Holt Renfrew’s overhauled 190,000 square foot flagship store will act as a significant anchor to the Bloor-Yorkville district when it’s completed early next year. The Bloor Street Holt Renfrew store includes the company’s corporate offices that are located in the adjacent 60 Bloor Street West office tower that is owned and operated by Morguard.
When the 50 Bloor Street West Holt Renfrew store opened in 1979, it included approximately 100,000 square feet over three levels. Ms. Lemm described how the store has expanded and how its latest renovation will bring good things. “Holt Renfrew’s Bloor Street flagship had grown organically as adjacencies became available and while it has been a very successful store, the shopping experience felt disjointed with a challenging flow. This opportunity to expand and reset the store, including adding beauty on the lower level and the procurement of even stronger and more premium concession brands, should provide for an incredible shopping environment,” she said. “The updated store will drive a wider trade area, will attract more tourists, and thus is expected to result in higher sales productivity,” she went on to say.
Eataly’s highly anticipated 50,000 square foot three-level ‘grocerant’ concept is expected to be wildly popular and is expected to drive a considerable amount of foot traffic to the area. It’s also expected to become a catalyst for other retailers looking at moving into the area.
Ms. Lemm said, “I cannot think of a time when I have visited New York City, time permitting, that I have not made my way to the Eataly location in the Flatiron District since it opened in 2010. I expect that Eataly on Bloor Street will attract a great domestic and international tourist traffic to the area”.
The JLL study, which was prepared by JLL’s Canadian research team, provides an informative overview of the upscale shopping node. More than 500 retailers can be found in the area (both on streets as well as in the area’s above and below-ground shopping centres) and many of the retailers in the area operate flagship locations.
The high-quality retail in the area “has attracted Hollywood celebrities, wealthy Chinese tourists and New York fashionistas looking for a true luxury shopping experience,” according to the study.
Bloor-Yorkville has come a long way from its counterculture days in the 1960s and 1970s when it was known to be a hangout for beatniks and then the epicentre for the Canadian ‘hippie movement’. Now, one is more likely to see affluent shoppers descend on the area looking for the latest fashions from brands such as Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Dior.
Christian Dior’s confidence in the Bloor-Yorkville node is evident with the recent opening of its jaw-dropping 13,300 square foot two-level flagship store at The Colonnade at 131 Bloor Street West. It’s the largest Dior flagship in North America and carries the brand’s full assortment of fashions for men and women that include ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories, bags and other items. It’s also the first Dior store in North America to carry the brand’s home furnishings collection, which is found in only a handful of Dior stores globally. JLL’s Dianne Lemm co-brokered the Dior deal with Hanna Struever of Retail Portfolio Solutions.
Dior also recently opened a new accessory boutique at Holt Renfrew’s Bloor Street flagship, which also recently saw the addition of main-floor leased concessions for brands including Gucci, David Yurman, Balenciaga, Burberry, Gucci, and Bulgari. Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta concessions are also on the way, joining a ‘world of’ concessions for Fendi and Saint Laurent, both of which opened last year and measure nearly 3,000 square feet each.
Toronto’s Bloor-Yorkville Area is home to several top-notch luxury hotels including the global flagship for the Four Seasons chain, as well as the intimate and super-exclusive Hazelton Hotel. At the southwest corner of Yonge Street and Bloor Street, as well, will be Mizrahi Development’s ‘The ONE’ development that will include an Andaz hotel and more than 400 luxury condominium residences, with prices for penthouses said to exceed $30 million each. When completed in 2022, ‘The ONE’ will be Canada’s tallest building with 85 floors rising over 1,000 feet above the iconic intersection, and will include a yet-to-be-named retailer at its base.
The JLL study provides details on the massive investments in the Bloor-Yorkville area that will result in a “sleeker, busier and more sophisticated luxury corridor in the heart of the city”. The study notes that there are currently 12 large-scale construction projects underway within the corridor, and another 11 proposed projects in the pipeline waiting for city approval. Incredibly, the projects currently in the construction pipeline will more than double the residential population in the area, according to the study.
Household incomes in the Bloor-Yorkville area are 171% higher than in the metropolitan Toronto area, according to the study, with average household incomes surpassing $300,000 annually. The average selling price for a new three-bedroom condominium in Bloor-Yorkville is approximately $6.5 million, or $2,200 per square foot. As of June, more than 90% of the units under construction in the area had already been pre-sold.
The study discusses several developments in the works, including Oxford Properties’ Park Hyatt redevelopment that will include an upgraded hotel component as well as a new luxury residential rental building which will be located in the historic south tower at the northwest corner of Bloor Street West and Avenue Road. Included in the development will be about 33,000 square feet of retail space.
Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre, located at Highway 401 and Allen Road, has seen many first-to-Canada store openings which includes an impressive clustering of luxury brands. JLL’s Dianne Lemm says that there’s room for at least two luxury nodes in the Toronto market, with Bloor-Yorkville finding its place with a point of differentiation being its urban street-front character. “With the densification of the Toronto market and the strong tourist demographic, there is room for two successful premium luxury shopping nodes in our city,” she said.
To download JLL’s Bloor-Yorkville Corridor Report,
The Beach Village area in Toronto has undergone a recent transformation as it continues to welcome new retailers and businesses to the neighbourhood with a strategic plan and effort to revitalize it.
Anna Sebert, the Executive Director of the Beach Village BIA (Business Improvement Area), said 12 new ventures have either recently opened or will soon open in the district.
“It’s amazing. This has been pretty unprecedented,” she said. “People are being more positive about the area. And that’s a huge win for us.’
They include: Both Bruno’s (coming soon); East Toronto Vascular Clinic; Marvelous Beauty Lounge; The Vape Pub; Scholar’s Education Centre; Isabella’s Boutique restaurant (moved to a bigger location in the Beach); Beaches Brew Co.; Big Bruce Public House; Toronto Popcorn Company; Derma Bar; Blue Cloud Cafe; and The Sweet Oven.
PHOTO: BEACH VILLAGE BIA
When the Beach Village BIA put together an aggressive retail revitalization plan for its lakeside community back in the winter, it faced significant challenges including a 13 per cent vacancy rate and a stream of negative media coverage about the area’s business prospects.
Zenergy Communications was brought on to spur marketing and media relations efforts in the region as a business recruitment plan was developed, and several major events were launched throughout the spring and summer to drive foot traffic and increase spending in the area.
Sebert said those efforts are paying off as several new businesses are taking a foothold in the area.
The Beach Village BIA is made up of about 320 shops, restaurants, and services along Queen Street East running from Lockwood Road to Neville Park Boulevard. It is slightly north of Lake Ontario in the eastern part of Toronto.
Sebert said about 24 per cent of the businesses are retail and services is the largest sector with about 46 per cent followed by food and drink at about 27 per cent. Art and entertainment is about three per cent.
“Mostly our businesses are small, independent retailers. Mom and pop shops. That kind of thing,” she said.
“Our name The Beach Village alludes to the fact that we are a small town within the city. It’s kind of like this little pocket of its own in the east. A lot of people kind of consider the end of our BIA as the unofficial end of Toronto. It’s a nice little pocket where you can go to the beach and then you can stroll around. We’ve got some larger sidewalks. We’ve got Kew Gardens which is a huge park in the area – used to host Jazz Fest for 25 years.
PHOTO: BEACH VILLAGE BIA
“It’s a very community centric neighbourhood as well. Everybody kind of knows each other – that kind of feel.”
Sebert said the neighbourhood has experienced changes in recent years. Development which has taken place in the western part of the city has slowly moved east to The Beach Village.
“I think a lot of people want things to stay the same but they’re not. It’s very cyclical down here at The Beach and I think a lot of people for many years were thinking ‘oh it was better in the 80s, better in the 90s’. There’s a little bit of a raise in the vacancy rate. That came from a multitude of reasons. You did have people buying properties for development as that was slowly coming in,” she said.
“Then you had some people as the commercial property taxes went up the area was sought after and rents became a little more expensive. Only really people who were providing great products, great experiences were the ones who were surviving. It was becoming tough. But that’s something we’re definitely seeing a change in. We do have some great landlords down here who are willing to work with people and breathe some new life into here.”
PHOTO: BEACH VILLAGE BIA
The BIA recently did a streetscape master plan with the City of Toronto to guide the vision of the street for the future and build a brand identity.
“That’s great and that’s what we always do but this year we actually have started to do a business recruitment strategy and that is beyond the scope of what BIAs normally do. We normally don’t have the funding for that kind of thing – the labour, the time. But I was actually granted a grant from the City of Toronto’s BIA office – an innovation grant – to work on this business recruitment strategy,” said Sebert.
“Right now we have talked to and surveyed businesses, landlords, residents and we’re really trying to develop a more comprehensive marketing strategy to really promote this area as the place to do business.
PHOTO: BEACH VILLAGE BIA
“I think we’ve always had that really great base of what we do. We do our movies in the park. We do retail shopping events. We do Christmas events. We do banners and baskets. We make the street look beautiful. But I think now that we’ve got that foundation we’re starting to build on it and I think we’ve already seen some great responses from our businesses who want to get involved and that’s really going to continue to help us especially in recruiting more independent businesses to the area and as we see that already happening we can start featuring that and getting them to be involved in the process. Let’s try to bring in more people.”
Toronto-based retail industry expert, personal wardrobe stylist and image consultant Yana Brikker of Ask Yana Inc. predicts that the rise of clothing rental businesses, as well as the rise of second-hand and off-price retail, will grab market share from traditional fashion retailers in Canada in the coming years. The trend is being driven by social media as well as individuals looking for bargains at a time when cost-of-living is increasing, and incomes stagnate.
This could hit full-priced fashion retailers in a big way, according to Ms. Brikker. And it comes at a time when an unprecedented number of international brands enter the Canadian market, which could see more homegrown brands shutter if they’re unable to compete.
For years, Toronto-based Yana Brikker has been working as an image consultant and stylist for a range of clients that include women and men, and she says that she predicts that the clothing rental business will be taking Canada by storm as clients request such services. She also explained how the phenomenon could result in consumers not actually buying clothing if they want to only be seen once in a particular garment.
HOLT RENFREW BLOOR SHOE HALL PHOTO: GEORGE PIMENTEL
“I was at several gala events recently, and I was surprised at how many rental dresses I saw in the room,” Ms. Brikker said. “I was in the showroom with two of my clients earlier that week and the owner informed me that many of the dresses we wanted for the evening we needed had already been reserved. I saw many of the same dresses at the events that followed, and it’s part of a bigger trend that I am witnessing,” she said.
“More and more, people are posting photos of themselves on Instagram and they don’t want to be seen twice in the same outfit. At the same time, they want to be seen in beautiful clothing, but it can be financially prohibitive to buy an expensive outfit and wear it only once,” she said. “Now we’re seeing women in particular renting a beautiful dress for the evening rather than making a substantially larger, permanent investment in a garment”.
Accessories, including jewellery and designer handbags, are also being rented out she said. “Rather than spending thousands of dollars on a collection of bags, women can rent one for a limited time, be seen wearing it, and have the option of being seen with several different bags rather than investing in just one item”.
It’s still unclear how big the clothing rental trend will be in Canada, as new companies continue to develop platforms to sell rental clothing. Startups across the country are getting in on the trend and it’s all so new that it remains to be seen just how much clothing rentals will affect sales at full-priced traditional retailers. “I predict that clothing rentals will be the next big thing and that we will continue to see new companies form to rent clothing to customers temporarily. Full-priced retailers will have to look to innovate if they want to compete,” said Ms. Brikker.
“Last year Neiman Marcus in San Francisco launched a 3,000 square foot pop-up location for Rent the Runway, which was followed by a permanent storefront for Rent the Runway. Now we see that Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, Free People, American Eagle, Vince, Ann Taylor and other retailers are getting in on the clothing rental trend,” she said.
RENT THE RUNWAY AT 434 POST STREET IN SAN FRANCISCO. PHOTO: MIHA MATEI PHOTOGRAPHY
The trend continues as retailers such as Bloomingdale’s get into subscription rentals. Launched last month, Bloomingdale’s ‘My List’ includes a US $149 fee where customers are entitled to four pieces initially, with unlimited substitutions. Also recently, HBC-owned Lord & Taylor was acquired by subscription rental website LeTote in a partnership that could see LeTote rolled out in some Canadian Hudson’s Bay stores, according to sources familiar with the situation.
Startups such as Ocurent, recently launched by fashion veteran Marlee Rabin in Montreal, is an example of a rapidly-growing company that is renting out fashions to her clients. “The majority of my customers tell me that they love getting dressed up for big events, especially for the Instagram photo opportunity,” said Ms. Rabin. “However, when they wear a dress to an event that they own, they feel insecure and tend to avoid being in or posting photos in case they’ve been seen in the same dress in the past. Renting has provided them affordable access to new outfits for all of their events, which simultaneously gives them more content for their personal social channels,” she went on to say.
Ms. Rabin’s new company has innovated in that the suppliers of her fashions do so on a consignment basis, which means she herself doesn’t have to invest in stock. At the same time, owners of the dresses are able to profit from the dresses that are being rented out. Ocurent is growing rapidly and will be featured in a separate article in Retail Insider.
SCREEN SHOT OF THE ‘LE TOTE’ WEBSITE. THE COMPANY ACQUIRED HBC-OWNED LORD & TAYLOR. CANADIAN HUDSON’S BAY STORES COULD ALSO BE PART OF THE PARTNERSHIP, ACCORDING TO SOURCES.
There are plenty of other examples of clothing rental companies expanding their operations in Canada. Ottawa-based Rent Frock Repeat, for example, is rapidly expanding its operations nationally and it recently introduced a subscription service.
Yana Brikker explained how the growth in second-hand fashions could further disrupt Canadian retailing. While second-hand clothing is hardly a new thing, it’s becoming more mainstream and social media is part of the reason.
“You’re far less likely to be wearing the same dress as someone else if it’s vintage, and the quality in some vintage pieces is superior to some designer brands that you can buy today,” said Ms. Brikker. “As the world of fashion moves away from specific trends, people are becoming more comfortable expressing their own personal identities and vintage clothing is an avenue for style expression,” she said.
That could result in a hit to brands such as Hermes, which have created false scarcity by limiting the sales of some of its bag styles, including the iconic ‘Birkin’ bag. Acquiring a Birkin bag at a Hermes store can be a challenge unless a buyer is established with the brand, though a vintage retailer is less likely to discriminate provided that the customer has the money to buy the item,” explained Ms. Brikker. “A good vintage Birkin bag, particularly if made of exotic skin, can cost into the six-figures”.
The rise of off-price retail and warehouse sales also further stands to erode traditional fashion retail in Canada. And it’s not just those struggling financially who are looking for a bargain, said Yana Brikker.
“Everyone loves a great deal and a ‘good sale’, even my most affluent clients,” she said. “I’m able to find clients bargains because I know where and when to look, and my wealthiest clients appreciate the savings just as much as those with less money to spend,” she said.
Ms. Brikker has expanded her styling service to a wide range of clients. “I will open my heart and services to anyone who wants to better their life,” she said. “You only have seven seconds to make a first impression”. She has also been volunteering for charities such as Dress for Success, the Corsage Project, and others. Ms. Brikker is working to improve the lives of men that are new to the single scene due to recent divorces and are looking to get back into the dating scene or at the very least, are looking for a boost of confidence and to look and be their best.
YANA BRIKKER IN THE NEW GUCCI OUTLET AT TORONTO PREMIUM OUTLETS, AS WELL AS A SHOT WEARING MOSCHINO.
“I know where to find some of the best deals and if you’d like to know where, you just have to Ask Yana,” she said. “Ask Yana Inc.” is the name of Ms. Brikker’s styling service business, which involves her seeking out high-quality and high-fashion items from leading off-price retailers as well as at wholesalers and sample sales. She also provides services such as closet overhauls where she will revise, revamp and revitalize a client’s entire wardrobe from start-to-finish, and then takes them shopping or shops for them to create their new looks.
ABOVE AND BELOW: NORDSTROM RACK AT 1 BLOOR ST. E. IN TORONTO. PHOTO: CRAIG PATTERSON
“It’s the thrill of the hunt,” she said. “You can find amazing discounted designer pieces at off-price retailers if you know when and where to look. I have paid a fraction of the retail price for some incredible designer finds over the years,” she says. As some of her clients are time-starved, Ms. Brikker says that she’s willing to do the leg work to find the best goods at the lowest cost.
Retailers such as TJX banners Winners and Marshalls have been opening more than a dozen stores annually in Canada, while new entrants such as Nordstrom Rack, Saks OFF 5TH and DSW Designer Shoe Warehouse have entered the market in the past few years. Canada has also seen US-style outlet malls open in recent years in major markets. The rapid growth in off-price retailers is expected to continue to take a bite out of traditional fashion retailing in Canada. And social media isn’t the only reason Canadians are seeking value priced goods. Incomes have stagnated for many Canadians and the cost of living continues to rise. Many people are also increasingly seeking ‘experiences’ over ‘goods’. What that means is there’s more competition than ever for Canadian retail dollars, which is amplified considering that more than 30 international retailers entered the Canadian market last year and more than 50 brands came into Canada the year before, which was a record.
Over the past decade, as well, US-styled designer outlet malls have opened in Canada. In a relatively short time, almost every major market in Canada spanning from Vancouver to Montreal have seen the openings of major outlet malls.
Furthermore, warehouse sale providers continue to grow their presence in Canada. Now more than ever across the country, consumers are able to shop substantial discounts at warehouse sale events such as those hosted by OPM Sales and other companies.
It remains to be seen just how prolific clothing rental, vintage retail and warehouse sales become in Canada. After all, Canadians are also time starved more than ever and may not have time to go out and hunt for good deals and bargains. The same goes for those looking to enhance their image on social media — many in the Gen Y and Gen Z age range who live in urban centres choose to not drive a car, which means it can be challenging getting to outlet malls and warehouse sales.
“That’s where working with a personal stylist and image consultant becomes a big advantage,” said Ms. Brikker. “While there may be a fee to hiring a stylist, a good stylist who knows where to shop can actually save you a substantial amount of money in the end,” she said. “As well, it can be tremendous time savings, not to mention there’s less stress on the client, which makes it well worthwhile in the end”.
We’ll continue to report on how fashion rentals, second-hand and off-price retail is affecting the Canadian retail industry. Feel free to share your opinions below in the comments section.
The Retail Job Fair is being held on Tuesday, September 17th, and there’s still room for 10 more retailers seeking employees. More than 700 job seekers will attend the event on the second floor of the Toronto Reference Library at 789 Yonge Street, which is being held between 10:00am and 2:30pm.
The job fair has been held for several years and has seen tremendous success. This year, 20 retailers already signed up and there is room for about 10 more retailers to join them. The hundreds of job seekers, most over the age of 18, have skill levels ranging from entry level to management. The majority of job seekers are under the age of 30 and are highly motivated. This is an opportunity for retailers to find ambitious employees at a time of record-low unemployment.
Employers interested in participating in next week’s job fair should contact Kamla Sudama as soon as possible at: Kamla.Sudama@toronto.ca
A list of retailers already confirmed to be participating, as well as positions being offered by these employers, can be found by downloading this PDF document. Impressive retailers include Best Buy, Hudson’s Bay Company, Sephora, Canadian Tire, Starbucks, Saks Fifth Avenue and others.
Job seekers can register to attend the Retail Job Fair at this link. The organizers suggest dressing for success as well as bringing at least 15 copies of your resume. The organizers also suggest connecting with your Job Developers and Employment Counsellors to prepare for the job fair. For more information or preparation help, call: 416-392-0101.
Youth aged 16-29 are asked to attend between 10:00am and 12-noon, while all other job seekers are asked to attend between 12-noon and 2:30pm on September 17th.
Job seekers: if you are not currently receiving support with your job search and you would like help with your resume, interview preparation or anything employment related, please call 416-397-JOBS (5627) to get connected to a local Youth Employment Partnerships (YEP) agency or a City of Toronto Employment Centre.
If job seekers have any questions, please connect to your Job developers/Coaches with any questions about this event or call 416-397-JOBS (5627) to leave a brief message starting with your name and phone number. A representative will call you back within 2 business days.
