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A Little Slice of Britain in West End Toronto

Simon Carter (Photo: Karim Rashwan)

By: Karim Rashwan

Take a stroll through Toronto’s trendy West Queen West neighborhood between Niagara and Shaw Streets, and you’ll notice something decidedly unique about this five block stretch.  It is lined with, arguably, the largest and one of the best collections of British men’s fashion anywhere in the city, possibly anywhere in Canada.  Designer brands such as SimonCarterFred PerryOliver Spencer, and Ben Sherman all make their home on this quirky Toronto street.  All of them are the only Canadian location, with a couple even being the only North American location.  

With such a large concentration of men’s British fashion in one area, you would be forgiven for thinking this is Toronto’s answer to London’s famed Savile Row or Jermyn Street.  While Queen West doesn’t have the bespoke tailor shops that those streets are so well known for, these designer brands have still managed to find their place in one of Toronto’s most eclectic and cutting edge neighborhoods.  Simon Carter was the first among them to set up shop, bringing $150 dress shirts to the area for the first time.  They obviously had the right idea because in July of this year, Simon Carter will celebrate its sixth anniversary in the hood.  The only freestanding, mono-brand Simon Carter store in North America – in fact the only one outside of England – it was the first one in the world to carry the full line of accessories and clothing and also just so happens to be the largest Simon Carter store in the world.

Sitting with store owner Cedric St. Louis on a frosty Monday morning, he tells me how he got into retail and became affiliated with Simon Carter in the first place.  “I’ve always wanted to have a store.  When I was back in school, you would have a career counselor come to you and ask you what you wanted to do, and I said I wanted to have a retail store.”  Working his way through the retail scene in London and Toronto with the likes of Holt Renfrew and TheGap, Cedric moved on to wholesaling, primarily representing British brands such as Paul Smith and John Smedley, and eventually became an agent, which is when he stumbled upon Simon Carter for the first time.

“I was flipping through a magazine looking for British brands to represent…and came across a pair of cufflinks which I thought were really original”, Cedric says to me, as he reaches behind a glass counter and shows me a pair of the patented cufflinks.  Known as Aspirin Cufflinks – think James Bond meets headache treatment – the top of the cufflink unscrews, turning the accessory into a pill box.  Cedric picked up the phone, contacted Simon Carter, and asked him if he could represent him in Canada.  Thankfully, Simon agreed (after a few attempts), and the rest, as they say, is history. 

Today, Toronto’s Simon Carter store not only sells to its loyal base of fashion-forward retail clients, but it also wholesales to other Canadian stores such as Gotstyle and Simons, as well as Bloomingdale’s across the U.S.  In addition to the six freestanding stores in England (3 in London, 2 in Buckinghamshire, and 1 in Yorkshire), Simon Carter is also sold at a who’s-who of high end department stores – Harvey Nichols, Fortnum and MasonLibertyHouse of Fraser, and that little known British temple of fashion called Selfridges.  You’ll also find Simon Carter carried at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and David Jones in Australia.  Simon will often collaborate with his retail partners to design exclusive private label accessories for them, for example, Simon Carter cufflinks for Harvey Nichols. 

Speaking with Simon himself from his London base, he tells me that he is enormously proud of the Toronto store and that its success has exceeded his expectations.  He sees Toronto as the right fit for his brand and feels that the city exudes a certain, unique style.  “[It’s] a city where I could definitely live”, he says to me.  When I ask Cedric why he thinks Toronto embraces British fashion so much, he tells me “Toronto is a happy medium between London and New York”.  He also refers back to the days when Brit Pop invaded Toronto in the 90’s and credits much of the city’s eclectic style to that scene.  And why Queen Street West in particular?  Well, Cedric makes no bones about the fact that at the time the rent was more appealing than Yorkville.  But it’s more than that.  Queen West clientele tends to be more experimental with fashion and not as label-driven as Yorkville.  Sorry Yorkvillians.

In the UK, Simon Carter is known as the “King of Cufflinks” but at the Queen West store you’ll find that it’s about a 70/30 split between clothing and accessories.  It carries Simon’s full line of dress shirts, knits, ties, suits, outerwear, and accessories, including watches, wallets, and key chains.  The Westend clothing collection tends to be more of the mod 1960’s look, whereas the Mainline collection leans more towards a contemporary style.  Simon tells me that he and his team takes pride in the quality of their clothing, and that commitment and attention to detail is easy to see as you work your way through the store.  There is no doubt that Simon Carter brings something to the Toronto men’s fashion scene that you won’t find anywhere else.  There’s just enough of a classic look to appeal to the traditional business man, but step outside the box a bit and you’ll find dress shirts with floral prints, and prints that include bicycles, gingerbread men, and a world map. 

So if you’re looking for stylish clothing with a classy edge, look no further than Toronto’s “Little London”.  If you’re lucky, you may just catch Simon himself on one of his visits to the store.
Simon Carter is located at 754 Queen Street West, Toronto (647) 428-7545

The Westend collection includes (all prices in CAD):Cufflinks: $75Watches: $165Shirts: $110Suits: $695
The Mainline collection includes:Cufflinks: $80-$195Watches: $95-$750Shirts: $125-$235Pants:  $185Suits: $750-$1,295

Article content and photos all by Karim Rashwan

Simon Carter website: www.simoncarter.ca

YET ANOTHER DOWNTOWN TORONTO RETAIL MALL?

A large retail complex could be built just north of the Toronto Eaton Centre. We received word from a source saying that we should be paying attention to the east side of Yonge Street between Gerrard and Gould Streets. 

Primus (red) and Ryerson (yellow) owned properties in the potential mall area [Source]

For some time, Primaris REIT had been quietly purchasing properties on the Yonge Street block, adjacent to Ryerson University. Ryerson owns the southern portion of the site which was formerly home to Sam The Record Man.  

Based on the above, Primaris appeared to be considering redeveloping the block and notes that it is open to further land assembly (acquiring adjacent properties for amalgamation).

On April 4, 2013, Kingsett Capital and the Canada Pension Board purchased Primaris’ Yonge Street properties. We are awaiting to hear back from Kingsett as to their intentions for the block. 

Ryerson Student Centre, currently under construction at the south-end of the site [Image Source]

Ryerson University has also noted that it could consider redevelopment of its portion of the block, along with lands immediately north. This has been set out in the Ryerson University Master Plan. It should also be noted, however, that the Ryerson Student Centre is currently under construction on the Ryerson-owned site. We’re not sure if there is a possibility that it could become integrated into a joint retail project.

Source: Ryerson University Master Plan

All of the above is currently speculation and we have little further information at this time. If such a project did go ahead, it could provide retail space for multiple retailers plus one or more large retailers seeking Downtown Toronto space including NordstromLa Maison Simons and Target. A source tells us, however, that they expect Target could secure space in the neighbouring Atrium On Bay building which is also undergoing redevelopment. 

Ryerson University has previously entered into joint ventures with retail developers, including the Ted Rogers School of Management building adjacent to the Toronto Eaton Centre. 

We extend thanks to Gil Meslin, urban planner at DIALOG for directing us to the Ryerson University master plan and related information and to his coworker, David Fitzpatrick, for directing us to the Primaris information. David has an excellent urban planning blog called Reurbanist and we follow his twitter daily.

HOLT RENFREW LAUNCHES H-PROJECT AND A CAREERS FACEBOOK PAGE

Holt Renfrew will launch three in-store shops merchandised with products “highlighting culture, craft and artisans from around the world”. The project is called ‘H Project’. Alexandra Weston, Director of Brand Strategy for Holt’s, will make personal appearances at the following Holt Renfrew stores to launch H Project:

Toronto Bloor Street Launch:
Wednesday May 22, 4:30 – 6:30 PM

Vancouver Launch:
Thursday May 23, 4:30 – 6:30 PM

Calgary Launch:
Friday May 24, 12:00 – 2:00 PM

Holt Renfrew has been involved with multiple charitable collaborations including, most recently, Armani baby blankets for Feed The Children.

Image: Holt Renfrew

Holt Renfrew has also launched a careers page on Facebook

Holt Renfrew website: www.HoltRenfrew.com

H Project from Holts Muse:  http://www.holtsmuse.com/culture/introducing-h-project

FLOORPLAN FRIDAY: THE COLONNADE, TORONTO

The Colonnade

The Colonnade, at 131 Bloor Street West in Toronto, is one of Canada’s most prestigious retail addresses. We’re providing floorplans and description of the two-level retail plaza.

The first level, floorplan above, includes ChanelCoachPradaMichael KorsCartierFogal of SwitzerlandEscada and Sephora. The floorplan shows Lacoste in space 103 and an empty space 110, at 470 square feet. Lacoste has closed and it will be replaced by Mulberry, as we previously reported, and space 110 was most recently home to upscale glove retailer Sermoneta.

The image above shows a close-up of the eastern-half of The Colonnade’s ground floor. We’ve marked Mulberry’s new location. Notice the large Prada store. It was originally much smaller but annexed an adjacent retail space to grow to almost 6,000 square feet.

The Colonnade’s second level lacked retail space until Chanel leased 4,200 square feet on the second floor. Chanel opened its ground-floor store in 1989 and with the second-floor expansion, it is the complex’s largest retail tenant at over 7,300 square feet. Michael Kors and Cartier have since created larger stores by occupying second-floor space in The Colonnade.

According to Retail Insider’s ACT7 of Urban Toronto, the second-level space 209 on the floorplan above, marked ‘Japan Foundation Library & Museum’, is papered-over on the outside. This may become the second level of the previously mentioned Mulberry store. 

The Colonnade opened in 1963 and includes over 70,000 square feet of retail space, over 25,000 square feet of office space and 157 rental apartments above. Surrounding retailers read as a ‘who’s who’ of luxury retail and include Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co, MontBlanc, Burberry, Hugo Boss, MaxMara and others.

The Colonnade website: www.thecolonnade.ca

TARGET CANADA TO COLLABORATE WITH BEAVER CANOE

Photo: Beaver Canoe

Roots-owned Beaver Canoe will create an apparel and home collection for Target‘s Canadian stores. The apparel collection launches on September 8th and the home collection on September 15th. The collection will be available from September 2013 through to the end of 2014 (and possibly later if the collaboration is successful). 

According to Target’s press release, the apparel collection will include “hoodies, sweatshirts, t-shirts, track pants and long-sleeve tops for toddlers to adults, as well as outerwear and accessories for men and women. Prices range from $7.99 to $99.99”. 

Their home collection, the first for Beaver Canoe, will be made up of more than 65 pieces, including furniture, pillows, lighting, frames, vases and candles and prices range from $7.99 to $99.99.

Beaver Canoe was started by Roots in 1982 and became a popular Canadian apparel brand with its own free-standing stores. Its popularity has diminished over time and continues to exist as a Roots-owned label.

Source: [Press Release] Top Image: Beaver Canoe Facebook Page

Target website: www.target.ca

Roots website: canada.roots.com

HOLT RENFREW STORES NOW SIMILAR IN SIZE TO NEIMAN MARCUS STORES

Holt Renfrew, Vancouver BC [Image Source]

Holt Renfrew‘s “new generation” stores will be in excess of 120,000 square feet, making them similar in size to or even larger than recently opened Neiman Marcus stores. We are providing a comparison of store sizes. Where applicable, we are linking the Holt Renfrew stores to previous Retail Insider articles describing their sizes and other store details.

Holt Renfrew stores and Neiman Marcus stores are quite similar. Both carry many of the same upscale designers and designer shops-in-store. Both have more recently included simple, bright interiors with plenty of open space. 

Here is an update on the latest new and proposed Holt Renfrew store sizes (9 stores in total):

Holt Renfrew’s proposed store and store expansion:

Current “large” Holt Renfrew Stores:

Older “smaller” Holt Renfrew stores:

  • Montreal: 83,000 square feet with about 64,000 square feet of retail space – with the possibility of a replacement store in the works (expect an article with more on this in the near future),
  • Ottawa (240 Sparks Street): About 36,600 square feet over 2 floors,
  • Quebec City (Place Ste-Foy): 32,943 square feet,
  • Edmonton (Manulife Place): About 47,000 square feet,
  • An existing 33,670 square foot Holt Renfrew store at Toronto’s Sherway Gardens will close in the spring of 2016. It will be replaced by the Mississauga location mentioned above. 

As can be seen, there is a significant difference in store sizes between the older, smaller Holt Renfrew stores and the newer locations (and the older Toronto Bloor Street flagship store) that are all in excess of 120,000 square feet. 

Neiman Marcus, Bellevue Washington [Image Source]

This list includes the sizes of all Neiman Marcus stores opened since 2005:

  • 2012: Walnut Creek, California (Broadway Plaza): 88,000 square feet
  • 2010: Bellevue Washington (The Bravern): 125,000 square feet
  • 2009: Canoga Park, California (Westfield Topanga): 120,000 square feet
  • 2008: Natick, Massachusetts (Natick Collection): 102,000 square feet
  • 2007: Austin, Texas (The Domain): 80,000 square feet
  • 2007: Charlotte, North Carolina (Southpark Mall): 80,000 square feet
  • 2006: Boca Raton, Florida (Town Centre at Boca Raton): 136,000 square feet
  • 2006: San Antonio, Texas (La Cantera): 120,000 square feet

It would appear that Holt Renfrew is opening similarly-sized stores as Neiman Marcus. Interestingly, Neiman Marcus stores tend to carry more home furnishings, children’s items (clothing and toys), restaurants and jewelry than Holt Renfrew stores. This lends the notion that some Holt Renfrew stores now offer a larger square footage to fashion brands than many newer Neiman Marcus stores.

Neiman Marcus, Walnut Creek California [Image Source]

It should be noted, however, that there are several relatively large Neiman Marcus stores that are older and have received more recent square footage additions. Neiman Marcus’ largest locations include:

  • San Francisco, California: 251,000 square feet
  • Houston, Texas (Houston Galleria): 224,000 square feet
  • Dallas, Texas (Northpark Shopping Centre): 218,000 square feet
  • Atlanta, Georgia (Lenox Square): 206,000 square feet
  • Chicago, Illinois (Michigan Avenue): 188,000 square feet
  • Beverly Hills, California: 185,000 square feet

Holt Renfrew’s recent tendency towards opening larger stores lends itself to being a world-class retailer. And with revenues close to $1000 per square foot, Holt Renfrew stores enjoy a level of productivity greater than almost all North American department stores.

Holt Renfrew, Calgary [Image Source]

We’ll be following up this article with various articles on Holt Renfrew, including its previous stores and sizes, sales revenues, expansion plans, and a comparison between it and other similar retailers around the world. We’ll also be doing analysis pieces where we see improvements that can be made to Holt Renfrew’s business model. We can say that, so far, the company appears to be on the right track to become a $1 billion per year retailer within a couple of years.

Holt Renfrew website: www.HoltRenfrew.com

Neiman Marcus website: www.NeimanMarcus.com

HUDSON’S BAY OUTLET OPENING FIRST LOCATION IN AUGUST

*****UPDATE: The Hudson’s Bay Outlet opened on schedule (August 1st 2013). It is about 25,000 square feet. It carries discounted product from all Bay departments, including merchandise from luxury department ‘The Room’.*****

Hudson’s Bay will open its first Canadian outlet location at the Toronto Premium Outlets. The opening date is tentatively set for August 1st. Other Canadian Hudson’s Bay outlet locations will follow.

We first reported on the Hudson’s Bay Outlet in April where we compared the concept to Nordstrom Rack. Nordstrom Rack is negotiating Canadian real estate and has already secured one Canadian store location.

The Toronto Premium Outlets will be located North-West of Toronto in Halton Hills. It will be located at the intersection of Steeles Avenue and Trafalgar Road. The mall will open in two phases with the first 350,000 square-foot, 85-store section set to open this summer.

Toronto Premium Outlets website:
https://www.premiumoutlets.com/outlets/outlet.asp?id=109

Hudson’s Bay website: www.TheBay.com

TUMI TO OPEN FIRST CANADIAN STORE IN VANCOUVER

Tumi Vancouver

Tumi will open its first free-standing Canadian store at 1033 Alberni Street in Vancouver. It will replace a Betsey Johnson store that formerly occupied the 1,500 square foot space. The Tumi store will be a licensed franchise.

For those unfamiliar, Tumi is a New Jersey-based manufacturer, wholesaler and retailer of travel bags and accessories. It has more recently branched into the lucrative handbag retail market. Tumi has over 120 stores worldwide and over 200 shop-in-store locations.  

A second Canadian Tumi store will open in Toronto in September, according to our Retail Insider ACT7 of Urban Toronto. More Canadian locations are expected to follow. Tumi products are also available at various Canadian retailers including Betty HemmingsHarry RosenHolt Renfrew and Taschen! stores.  

In addition, Vancouver’s Alberni Street will see the arrival of several other upscale retailers including Christian DiorTory Burch and De BeersMont Blanc recently opened a store around the corner at 717 Burrard Street and several more luxury retailers will be opening both on and near Vancouver’s Alberni Street.

Tumi website: www.tumi.com

FLOORPLAN FRIDAY: HOLT RENFREW, OTTAWA

Holt Renfrew (Image: Google Streeview)

For this week’s Floorplan Friday, we’re again showing a leaseplan including a Holt Renfrew store. This is Ottawa’s Holt Renfrew, located in the 240 Sparks Street building. 

This first plan, above, shows the 14,320 square-foot ground floor of the Ottawa Holt Renfrew store. Included on this floor are menswear, cosmetics and accessories.  

This first plan is also shown on an angle. The leaseplan provided by 240 Sparks Street’s landlord angled for both floors. The first floor is marked as level ‘C2’. 

The second floor of the Ottawa Holt Renfrew is 22,280 square feet according to this plan. It is marked as level ‘C3’. This floor includes womenswear. 
The total square footage of these two floors is 36,600 square feet, according to lease plans. This makes it substantially smaller than the newly built Holt Renfrew stores including the expanding Yorkdale Store in Toronto and the recently announced Square One Mississauga Holt Renfrew store. 

Next week we’ll give you a rundown of Holt Renfrew store sizes, including proposed expansions of existing stores. Have an excellent weekend, and thank you for reading Retail Insider. 

[Top Image: Google Streetview]

Holt Renfrew website: www.HoltRenfrew.com
240 Sparks Street website: www.240sparks.com

HR2 BY HOLT RENFREW OPENS ITS SECOND LOCATION TODAY AT VAUGHAN MILLS

HR2

Holt Renfrew‘s off-price retailer hr2 opens its second Canadian location this morning at Toronto-area outlet mall Vaughan Mills. The store is about 25,000 square feet. The first hr2 opened near Montreal in March.

The Montreal hr2 has been met with positive press for its discounted designer items. We posted some pictures of the Montreal store, including its cement floors and high ceilings. The store was designed by NYC-based architect Jason Goldstein. Goldstein also designed Holt Renfrew stores in Vancouver and Calgary. 

hr2’s discounts are partly a result of being able to take advantage of product cancellations from other retailers, as well as discounts from its relationships with existing vendors. It carries a considerable amount of designer merchandise not otherwise available in Canada. There will be seasonable markdowns and new merchandise is brought in weekly.  

Holt Renfrew released a list of some of hr2’s designers. These include: Alice + Olivia, Diane von Furstenberg, Splendid, Michael Michael Kors, Cole Haan, Ray-Ban, 7 for All Mankind, Nicole Miller, Elie Tahari, House of Harlow, Naked and Famous, Hunter and hr2 private label. While some of the brands at hr2 will also be carried at Holt Renfrew, product assortment does not overlap.

10 or more hr2 stores are planned Canada-wide. Keep reading Retail Insider for store updates.

[Press Release] Images: Holt Renfrew

hr2 by Holt Renfrew website: holtrenfrew.com/hr2

Vaughan Mills website: www.vaughanmills.com