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Innovative Canadian Company Creates Outerwear From Single-Use Plastic

PHOTO: NORDEN PROJECT

In 2018, after 15 years of experience in the apparel business, Mayer Vafi wanted to create a ‘better narrative’ surrounding sustainable living. He wanted to create a company and a dialogue around ensuring a future for generations to come by repurposing waste into fashionable high-quality apparel.

His latest venture, called Norden Project, produces outerwear using an innovative fabric made entirely of repurposed plastic waste with 100% traceability and transparency. He says that he wanted to change the way apparel is manufactured by creating clothing from repurposed waste and as a result, Norden’s fashionable outerwear is free of fur, feathers, leather, and all other animal by-products.

The launch of Vafi’s eco-focused company Better Narrative, and the subsequent introduction of the Norden Project, has Vafi’s vision moving forward quickly into Canada’s competitive outerwear business. Norden Project has Fall/Winter 2019 distribution at select retailers across the country including La Maison Simons, Sports Experts, Atmosphere, Hudson’s Bay, as well as internationally at Beams in Japan, Browns Fashions in London UK, and online at 24s.com and modehaus-schnitzler.de.

MAYER VAFI, CO-FOUNDER OF BETTER NARRATIVE PHOTO: THEINDUSTRY.FASHION

Having worked with brands such as 7ForAllMankind, UGG Australia, and Pajar, Vafi had reached the point in his career where venturing into the marketplace was his next move.

The new business venture is important not only to Vafi and his team, but to consumers who are looking to change how they shop. “We are at a crossroads, we cannot keep endlessly using our finite resources. Norden Project specializes in outerwear and wants to show that warmth and style do not have to come at the cost of people or the planet,” he said.

Vafi has partnered with REPREVE and Polartec for fabrics, and has gained PETA-approved Vegan status for the product line. Norden’s outerwear is constructed with a combination of three REPREVE fabrics – Oxford (100% polyester), Bonded (polyester/spandex blend), and a Two-way stretch (100% polyester), along with POLARTEC Polyfill made in the USA entirely of recycled plastic.

Another requirement is that all suppliers are UNIFI tested and approved. These partnerships allow Norden Project to use non-virgin polyester which consumes 45% less energy, 20% less water, and emits 30% less GHG.

“Our goal is to become a closed-loop production system and work towards a better narrative. Our customers and the community love that we are @PETA certified and that our products are made from recycled plastic. The jacket’s lining, insulation and shell fabrics, all made from post consumer bottles. They also love our end of life solution!” says Vafi.

PHOTO: NORDEN PROJECT

Like Canada’s outerwear disruptor Wuxly Movement, Norden Project offers a trade-in initiative to put the company closer to this goal. Their ‘End of Life’ initiative invites purchasers of Norden outerwear to swap their garments – after a minimum of three winter seasons – for an updated one. Norden will provide a discount code of 40% that can be applied towards the new purchase of any Norden product. At this time the company does not know what they will do with the traded-in jackets but there are many options – donation, refurbish and resell, convert them into accessories – anything to prevent what they produce from going into a landfill. Their goal is to create solutions to convert unwanted garments into the raw materials needed for new garments.

For 2019, Vafi says “We want to show that better business practices do exist, we want to create awareness and shift mindset.”

Luxury Retailers Will Continue to Target Canada: Expert

The luxury retail market in Canada has been experiencing some impressive success in recent years and is poised for even more growth in the coming years.

Lanita Layton, a retail expert and consultant based out of Toronto, said the Canadian luxury market has been very strong and many international brands are currently looking to set up shop in the country for the first time.

“In Canada there’s a certain European sophistication and a large Asian population that embraces it, among other groups” said Layton. “In general, business in retail has been more difficult over the past six months to a year. However the top end of luxury continues to hold and build nicely.”

BOTTEGA VENETA’S YORKDALE BOUTIQUE PHOTO: MICHAEL MURAZ
BOTTEGA VENETA’S YORKDALE BOUTIQUE PHOTO: MICHAEL MURAZ

Layton has an impressive history in the retail industry for a number of years. She was managing director for Hugo Boss in Canada. She was also vice president and general merchandise manager for Holt Renfrew. In the past year, Layton has been consulting for various groups such as Bottega Veneta for their retail launch in Canada, including the first standalone Canadian store in Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre.

LANITA LAYTON

“Overall the Canadian economy, as much as those of us in Canada gripe about it, is still a pretty stable marketplace. It’s a stable economy, we’ve got a conservative banking system. Overall, we’re still in reasonably good shape out there and better than some of our friends elsewhere,” said Layton.

She said there’s no question there are more and more luxury brands that are looking at the Canadian marketplace.

DAVID YURMAN BOUTIQUE AT HOLT RENFREW OGILVY PHOTO: DAVID YURMAN
DAVID YURMAN BOUTIQUE AT HOLT RENFREW OGILVY PHOTO: DAVID YURMAN

“I think that’s a wise move on their part and particularly from certain countries i.e. the UK where they’ve got other difficulties right now . People are looking to where else can they build a business,” explained Layton. “Where’s a great place to invest? No question Asia is one but the Canadian marketplace also has great potential, there’s less promotional activity here, people embrace fashion and quality.

“Certainly, people I’m talking to are seeing there’s a definite interest in moving into this marketplace. Yorkdale Shopping Centre isn’t stopping any time soon it seems. Not to mention the upscale stretch of Bloor Street West, Yorkville Village/Yorkville Avenue and downtown Vancouver. The most difficult piece for anyone from what I’m hearing is trying to find the location right now. Also in Calgary there’s an interest and there’s certainly a customer there for it. One thing people need to be cautious about and understand is you cannot rely just on tourists. There’s been too much reliance in some cases on the tourists rather than on your local customers. They’re here. They’re wonderful consumers. They appreciate luxury as well. You need to embrace the markets in the regions you’re in. That’s where people are going to have to pay more attention as we go forward.”

LOUIS VUITTON’S NEW WEST EDMONTON MALL BOUTIQUE PHOTO: LOUIS VUITTON
LOUIS VUITTON’S NEW WEST EDMONTON MALL BOUTIQUE PHOTO: LOUIS VUITTON

Layton said there are a number of international brands that are currently investigating entering the Canadian marketplace, adding that there are still some amazing brands that have yet to establish a store presence in the country. They’re testing the waters with some of their wholesale partners. The LVMH Group of luxury retailers is an example, as is the Kering group of luxury brands.

“They’ve got some brands that still haven’t introduced with their own stores or shops yet. There’s going to be some movement around that,” said Layton.  There’s no secret that Holt Renfrew is expanding with major shops with Dior, Gucci and Fendi and other big names, and they’re also opening their own stores . Alexander McQueen right now is one that certainly the Kering group is talking about but we haven’t seen a push into this marketplace yet. That could be an opportunity.

“There’s many other types of brands out there. Certainly with menswear with major growth predicted we’ll probably see more of the Italian and UK brands in particular coming this way expanding with their own stores or shops.”

VALENTINO’S YORKDALE BOUTIQUE PHOTO: MICHAEL MURAZ
VALENTINO’S YORKDALE BOUTIQUE PHOTO: MICHAEL MURAZ

Layton said that from a logistics point of view Canada presents an environment for a luxury brand where it is easier to focus on certain areas where the population is condensed. The supply chain and everything around that can be less difficult for a retailer. The consumer in Canada embraces the idea of new brands, fashion and quality. Overall, many of the Canadian cities have high per capita incomes and the consumer base therefore has the money to look at these brands.

“Canadians travel a lot. It’s interesting when I’m speaking to some of these brands. The Canadian consumer is part of the Commonwealth for example and we recognize a lot of the UK brands already. There’s less work to be done perhaps around the marketing aspects. It’s a name that’s already known and it’s just building upon that,” said Layton. “The same thing with the Italian brands and the French brands. That’s an opportunity for them.”

But Layton said there are some challenges for international luxury retailers operating in Canada and points to the example of Target. “Companies need to do their homework before setting up shop in Canada. They need to have a team in Canada with Canadians involved. It’s not a matter of just parachuting in people from elsewhere. That’s important for training and coaching and understanding the brand but it’s also important to have people who understand the specific marketplaces, the regionalization, the community, the cultures that are involved as well as Canadian laws.”

Oxford Properties Mega-Project to Add 200,000 Sq Ft of Retail Space in Downtown Toronto [Feature]

‘UNION PARK’, IMAGE: OXFORD PROPERTIES

Last week landlord Oxford Properties announced that it would be building a $3.5-billion mixed-use mega-project in downtown Toronto that will become one of Canada’s biggest real estate projects. This week, Retail Insider spoke with two executives from Oxford Properties to discuss details on the 200,000 square foot retail component, which is expected to become a destination in an area that is seeing a remarkable transformation.  

Called ‘Union Park’, the 4.3-million square foot complex on four acres will be just north of Toronto’s Rogers Centre and the CN Tower, and across the street from CBC’s Broadcast Centre, Simcoe Place and the Ritz Carlton Hotel. Included at Union Park will be two office towers (58 and 48 stories), about 800 rental apartments in two buildings (54 and 44 stories), and three acres of public space including an urban park over the Union Station rail corridor spanning between Blue Jays Way and the John Street footbridge. Union Park will transform both the city skyline as well as the experience at street level. 

As part of the Union Park project, Oxford Properties will add about 200,000 square feet of retail space spanning multiple levels, which will house a variety of commercial tenants. Experiential retail will be key to the project which could include a new food hall for Toronto’s downtown core which will be a draw for visitors and locals. 

Construction is expected to commence in 2023 depending on city approvals.

SITE PLAN, SHOWING THE POSITIONING OF BUILDINGS AS WELL AS THE ‘WINTER GARDEN’ AND NEW PARK OVER THE RAIL YARDS. ABOUT 200,000 SQUARE FEET OF RETAIL WOULD BE LOCATED WITHIN THE COMPLEX. IMAGE: OXFORD PROPERTIES
A ‘WINTER GARDEN’ WOULD ADD NORTH-SOUTH CONNECTIVITY, WITH RETAIL SPACES BOASTING 20-FOOT CLEAR CEILING HEIGHTS. IMAGE: OXFORD PROPERTIES.

Retail space at Union Park will include a lower level corridor that will connect to Toronto’s PATH pedestrian network, which will be expanded as part of the new project. Carlo Timpano, Vice President of Development at Oxford Properties, said that the retail mix on that level will be “PATH oriented” with a mix of tenants geared towards those utilizing the pedestrian network which is said to be the largest underground shopping complex in the world. Targeted tenants will include food and beverage operators as well as other localized retail offerings with a convenience and lifestyle focus. 

Upstairs at the street level will be dramatic retail spaces with 20-foot clear ceiling heights, according to Mr. Timpano, which will activate Front Street with a variety of uses. A glass-enclosed ’winter garden’ will provide further activation as well as access to more retail space that will face toward the newly built park, while also creating north-south connectivity within the massive Union Park complex. 

Sherif Masood, Vice President of Retail Asset Management at Oxford Properties, described the proposed retail mix at Union Park as being focused on food and beverage, entertainment and ‘lifestyle’ with a particular focus on food and beverage to act as a draw. Tenants could include QSR tenants, lifestyle concepts such as spas and beauty, banks, full-sized restaurants and even a food hall is a possibility as the landlord strategizes and begins discussions with potential tenants. Mr. Masood said that there is the opportunity for flagship restaurants to locate in space facing the new park, with opportunities for large patios. 

PARK SPACE OVER THE RAIL YARDS AT UNION PARK. RESTAURANTS OVERLOOKING THE PARK COULD HAVE OPPORTUNITIES FOR LARGE SOUTH-FACING PATIOS FLOODED BY SUNLIGHT. IMAGE: OXFORD PROPERTIES.

An upper-level food hall could become a significant component of Union Park. The food hall could include outdoor space as well as windows to provide ample natural light. A grocery tenant is also a possibility for Union Park, and the landlord will examine various options including a grocery-anchored food hall or a more traditional standalone grocery concept. 

NIGHTTIME VIEW OF TORONTO’S SKYLINE WITH THE NEW ‘UNION PARK’ RISING BEHIND THE ROGERS PLACE FACILITY. IMAGE: OXFORD PROPERTIES.

Food halls are good for business, according to Mr. Masood, noting that the opening of Eataly at Boston’s Prudential Centre led to its landlord being able to command higher lease rates for office tenants above and even nearby. Food halls also pull in visitors from further away, he noted, as evidenced with the Chef’s Assembly Hall in downtown Toronto as well as two food halls in Oxford’s Upper Canada Mall in Newmarket (which opened last year) as well as at Square One in Mississauga, which opened in the spring. 

Entertainment is also expected to be an important part of Union Park. The area is already home to attractions such as the CN Tower, Ripley’s Aquarium and Cineplex-owned ‘The Rec Room’ which opened in the summer of 2017. Union Park’s ‘winter garden’ could also become activated at various times of the year to host events for the Toronto International Film Festival, Pride, and Toronto Fashion Week, for example. 

Mr. Masood noted that with about 3.5 million square feet of space, Union Park will bring a level of scale that will “bring a truly successful mixed-use community” that will be an added draw for the area. Those working in the new office towers on the site as well as nearby will have even more options for dining and shopping, while new residents to the area will further add to Union Park’s commercial viability. The area surrounding Union Park is seeing a development boom that includes thousands of new condominium units as well as several large new office towers. 

ANOTHER VIEW OF UNION PARK IN TORONTO. IMAGE: OXFORD PROPERTIES.

Oxford Properties owns the four-acre Union Park site as well as about seven acres immediately to the east that currently houses the Metro Toronto Convention Centre as well as an office building and a hotel. While Oxford will focus on Union Park’s proposed four-acre property, there’s the possibility that an expansion eastward could be a possibility at some point in the future. 

Union Park will be less than 300 metres from ‘The Well’, which will be a mixed use project that will include about 420,000 square feet of retail space. Both developments will create a critical mass as densification continues in the city’s core.

In 2012, Oxford Properties proposed a significantly larger development called Oxford Place that could have included a new hotel, residential towers, office towers, a redeveloped convention facility and a Royal Vegas Casino in Canada. Spanning the entire 11 acres on the south side of Front Street between Simcoe Street and Blue Jays Way, Oxford Place would have included approximately one million square feet of retail space, which could have become a competitor to CF Toronto Eaton Centre, given the size. Toronto City Council voted against the downtown casino and plans to develop Oxford Place were put on hold indefinitely. 

Longo’s Grocery Chain Launches Meal-Based Kiosk Concept Amid Consumer Shift

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Longo’s Brothers Fruit Market has launched its latest pilot project which is a meal-based shopping kiosk developed as a strategic response to the changing needs and behaviours of today’s shopper.

The concept is operating inside the company’s Maple Leaf Square location at 15 York Street in Toronto.

“In essence, it will allow for a smarter way to shop. The meal-based shopping kiosk merchandises produce based on recipe ideas, which helps shoppers plan their weekly meals better, and save time shopping around the store,” said Rosanne Longo, the company’s consumer spokesperson.

“We spend an incredible amount of time ensuring we are well positioned for the future of retail and understanding the new consumer who will shop with us. Shoppers today are so diverse, and they are changing constantly so if we are to stay relevant, we need to ensure that we are putting consumer needs at the centre and doubling down on our marketing and execution strategies. The meal kiosk is just one of the many initiatives we are testing to see if we can satisfy this new wave of consumers.”

Longo said the Maple Leaf Square location is located in Toronto’s downtown Financial District and ideal for the launch of the concept.

“Statistically, people who live and work in this area are most likely to use meal-kit delivery services and food delivery apps due to their convenience and ease of use. From our own research, we felt that our shoppers in this area would find the most use from this pilot, and would be the most receptive to a more convenient shopping experience,” she said.

“If successful, we plan to adapt this program into other stores throughout the GTA. If consumers respond well to the program, we would love to see a store dedicated to offering strictly meal-based shopping. Like all other initiatives that we test, we have to see how the consumer responds, optimize accordingly and keep striving to perfect the retail experience 360 degrees.”

Longo said the grocery store model is continually evolving and businesses in this sector must focus on developing programs that are both customer-centric and designed for the future of retail.

The concept includes a kiosk area where fresh ingredients are merchandised according to a specific meal. The kiosk provides customers with one central location inside the store where they can hand-select their produce, meats, starches and garnishes to create a specific meal or recipe. Meal sizing will be adjustable to ensure shoppers have enough to feed a single person or a large dinner party of 10. Recipes and step-by-step cooking guides will also be available in-store and online.

“Today’s consumers are changing dramatically. They want convenience, speed and simplicity but they also want an experience. We had to ask ourselves, how do we create an offering that will allow our guests to have all three elements? We decided to test out the meal-kiosk because it will be automated, tech-focused, convenient, speedy and simple. The perfect storm for the customer of the future,” said Longo.

“Since launching the program, we’ve seen a very positive response from our shoppers who love the simplicity of the design and ease of use but only time and data will tell us the whole picture. We are going to be collecting data and feedback to better understand their experience to optimize it. We will also be launching mystery shopping with a few members of the public to get a fully unbiased view.  

“The bottom line is this: For a long time, shoppers were loyal to a single store that would fulfill all of their grocery needs. Today, consumers are far more likely to embrace multiple retail locations and varying formats to ensure they get exactly what they want. It is our firm belief that they will respond well to new ideas and options that show the retailers are truly listening.”

Longo said the concept may be expanded to become a full store concept. It may also be something later offered online through its grocery delivery service, Grocery Gateway. The possibilities are endless.

“Similar to many Longo’s initiatives that are currently underway, this program seeks to prepare us for the future of retail. As we carefully examine consumer trends, we know that customers are certainly seeking convenience, but we firmly believe that they also want a human-centred experience where they can browse, see, feel and compare ingredients before purchasing,” said Longo.

She said the program has great potential to not only attract and engage new customers but to also help its existing customers discover better ways of shopping that provide both ease and convenience. Longo’s plans to expand the model to each of its 33 stores by Spring 2020.

Longo’s is a family-owned business that started in 1956 when three brothers, Tommy, Joe and Gus opened their first fruit market. It was a small 1,500 square foot store on Yonge Street (at Castle field) in Toronto. Longo’s employs more than 5,000 people.

Four Grade-11 Girls Launch Women-Centric Brand ‘She Clothing Co.’

PHOTO: SHE CLOTHING CO VIA FACEBOOK

By Kayla Matthews

Most students in Grade 11 are concerned with deciding what college they wish to attend or what they want to do with the rest of their lives while enjoying their final years of high school.

For four girls from Toronto, they didn’t want to wait until graduation. Three years ago, they turned their dream into a reality and started She Clothing Co. Who are the minds behind She Clothing Co.? What are they doing differently, and why are they making headlines in 2019?

The Minds Behind She Clothing Co.

She Clothing Co. is the brainchild of a quartet of young women from Toronto:

  • Laura David, who handles communications and sourcing
  • Alara Karahan, the company’s marketing and social media director
  • Jordan Murrell, She Clothing’s finance director
  • Lara Ground, the company’s creative director

Each of these accomplished young women has taken the message, “Be the change you wish to see in the world” to heart, creating a clothing company that lets them get their point across.

“Launching a clothing brand while also being a high school student has been a rewarding experience, to say the least,” David told Retail Insider. “It’s taught us a lot about how to balance various activities at once and it’s also given us real-world skills that you can’t find in a classroom.”

“We started planning and came up with the idea over the summer of 2017,” says Murrell, “so I don’t think we were even thinking about the possible impact that school would have on us running this business at first. Overall, it was harder than we thought it would be — trying to find time between all of us to coordinate and communicate, but we learned that it’s all about finding balance.”

That desire to change the world is part of the fabric of every shirt, hat and hoodie this groundbreaking company creates.

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