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Stone Island opens archival exhibition at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal

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Stone Island has unveiled its archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Running from October 17 to 27, 2024, the exhibition takes place in the iconic Tudor Hall and offers visitors an immersive exploration of Stone Island’s four decades of material innovation.

The showcase, open to the public, presents rare and iconic pieces from the brand’s archives alongside modern designs from Holt Renfrew’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, illustrating how the brand’s heritage continues to influence contemporary fashion.

Known for its groundbreaking work in fabric technology, Stone Island selected five standout pieces from Holt Renfrew’s latest collection. The items are paired with archival pieces that inspired their design, reflecting the brand’s commitment to continuous material research and evolution. The exhibition centres around five key themes, each representing a different era of Stone Island’s pioneering work in fabric innovation.

Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island
Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island

Themes of Material Innovation at Stone Island’s Montreal Exhibition

The exhibition showcases the following five themes, each highlighting a different aspect of Stone Island’s fabric innovation:

  • Metallic: Featuring metallic fabrics, this theme includes the Pure Metal Shell – Bronze jacket from the Autumn/Winter 1999 collection.
  • Thermo-sensitive: Highlighting Stone Island’s iconic color-changing materials, such as the Ice Jacket Camouflage Thermosensitive Fabric from Autumn/Winter 1990-1991.
  • Stone Island Marina: A focus on nautical-inspired fabrics, featuring reflective jackets from the Spring/Summer 1993 collection.
  • Stone Island Ghost: Showcasing the natural Ventile Cotton Canvas, a weatherproof fabric used in the brand’s Ghost collections.
  • David-TC: Exploring Stone Island’s Japanese fabric, with a rare jacket from the Stone Island Shadow Spring/Summer 2004 collection that features a right-arm badge.

The Montreal exhibition follows the success of Stone Island’s Los Angeles showcase earlier this year, where the brand’s “Lab-Life” philosophy—integrating research, community, and product innovation—was brought to life. This exhibition at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy embodies that same ethos, combining material research with an engaging visitor experience.

Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island
Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island

Stone Island at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy: A Hub for Community and Learning

In addition to the archival pieces, the exhibition serves as a hub for community interaction, learning, and shopping. Montreal’s Café Olimpico has set up a central space within the exhibition where visitors can relax, enjoy coffee, and read periodicals curated by Wrong Answer.

A dedicated Screening Room showcases The Compass Inside, a documentary by Jeremy Elkin. The film offers an in-depth look at Stone Island’s global community and its production facilities in Ravarino, Italy, where the brand’s innovative materials come to life. Visitors can also enjoy music curated by La Rama Records, with performances from Montreal’s top DJs during weekends, including Aram & Destiny, Somebody3lse & Icky Magdala, The LYONZ, and Ferias. The music will play through a custom Danley sound system built by Elastique Audio.

Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island
Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island

The retail section of the exhibition highlights Holt Renfrew’s Fall/Winter 2024 Stone Island collection, offering visitors a unique shopping experience with exclusive items from the brand’s latest line.

The exhibition kicked off with a private launch party featuring a menu by Chef Laurent Dagenais and music by Kris Guilty and Gene Tellem. A public panel discussion will be held on October 24, featuring Montreal creatives such as Seny Kassaye, artist Vincent Tsang, DJ IAMNOTMYHISTORY, and a representative from Atelier Barda. Moderated by Justin Lortie, Co-Founder and Design Director of Wedge, the discussion will explore the intersection of art, architecture, and innovation.

Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island

Stone Island’s Standalone Store in Toronto

Beyond its relationship with Holt Renfrew, Stone Island expanded its footprint in Canada by opening its first standalone flagship store on Yorkville Avenue in Toronto in 2019. This location offers a comprehensive Stone Island experience that includes a focus on exclusive collections and limited-edition pieces.

The Yorkville flagship showcases the full range of Stone Island products, including outerwear featuring the brand’s iconic compass patch and innovative fabric treatments. The opening of this store marked a significant milestone in Stone Island’s North American expansion. The Yorkville location sits among prestigious neighbours that include Brunello Cucinelli and Chanel, as well as a soon-to-close Versace store.  

Stone Island store at 102 Yorkville Avenue in Toronto. Photo: Stone Island

Broader Distribution in Canada

Stone Island’s products are available in Canada through a network of upscale retailers, including SSENSE, TNT, and CNTRBND. Holt Renfrew has also been a key partner, with successful pop-up shop-in-shops over the years. Stone Island’s popularity in Canada has grown due to its appeal to fashion-forward consumers who appreciate the brand’s unique combination of functionality and luxury.

Background and History: Stone Island

Stone Island was founded in 1982 by Italian designer Massimo Osti in Ravarino, Italy. Initially launched as a subsidiary of Osti’s main brand, C.P. Company, Stone Island quickly set itself apart due to its experimental approach to fabrics and garment technology. The brand’s foundation was based on rigorous material research, with its first collection featuring the now-iconic Tela Stella fabric, a durable material initially developed for military tarpaulins. This early focus on functionality, combined with Osti’s innovative use of dyeing and treatment techniques, laid the groundwork for Stone Island’s success.

Stone Island archival exhibition, Material Research ‘984 – ‘024, at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy in Montreal. Photo: Stone Island

One of the brand’s most significant early innovations was the Ice Jacket, developed in the 1980s, which changed colour in response to temperature variations. This forward-thinking approach to garment technology was emblematic of Osti’s design philosophy, which favored function over form. Stone Island’s logo, a compass, reflects Osti’s nautical inspiration, a nod to his fascination with the sea and boats, as well as the brand’s core ethos of technical precision and exploration.

Following Osti’s departure in the early 1990s, Carlo Rivetti took control of the company, continuing its legacy of innovation while pushing the brand into new markets, including North America. Under Rivetti’s leadership, Stone Island expanded globally, becoming a favourite among subcultures like British football “casuals” and, more recently, a mainstream luxury brand, thanks in part to collaborations with high-profile partners like Supreme and Nike.

Craig Patterson
Craig Patterson
Located in Toronto, Craig is the Publisher & CEO of Retail Insider Media Ltd. He is also a retail analyst and consultant, Advisor at the University of Alberta School Centre for Cities and Communities in Edmonton, former lawyer and a public speaker. He has studied the Canadian retail landscape for over 25 years and he holds Bachelor of Commerce and Bachelor of Laws Degrees.

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