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Hillberg & Berk Plans Major Expansion

'SPARKLE BAR' - PHOTO: HILLBERG & BERK

Regina-based jeweller Hillberg & Berk plans to open dozens of stores nationwide over the next several years. We spoke with its founder and CEO, Rachel Mielke, who explained her plans for the company as well as why and how the brand has become so popular so quickly.

Founded in 2007, Hillberg & Berk retails “modern and timeless, practical and functional” jewellery crafted from sterling silver, gold, and high-quality gemstones. Prices are considered accessible, though they can go into the thousands for designs utilizing premium materials. In 2008 Ms. Mielke went on CBC’s TV show Dragon’s Den, where she partnered with business mogul and philanthropost W. Brett Wilson for financing.

In 2014, Saskatchewan’s Lieutenant Governor commissioned Hillberg & Berk to make a tourmaline floral-design broach surrounded by diamonds for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who has been photographed wearing it four times. Other fans include Carrie Underwood, Sarah McLachlan, Michelle Obama, Barbra Walters, and Celine Dion. Hillberg & Berk has recently been commissioned to create a second piece for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, Ms. Mielke revealed. As well, the jeweller recently partnered with award-winning figure skater Tessa Virtue on a new collection, and the line is already seeing tremendous success.

Rachel Mielke on the steps of the Regina flagship.
Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II wears a commissioned Hillberg & Berk broach.

To grow such a brand, you need to be disruptive and you need to integrate online with brick-and-mortar, according to Ms. Mielke. The company’s website was revamped last year and as a result, sales increased fivefold. Hillberg & Berk expects to see revenue of about $10 million in 2016, up from $5 million this year. Its products are of a high quality and are guaranteed for five years, with designs appealing to all age ranges.

The company is also charitable, with Ms. Mielke quoted as saying: “Through education, inspiration and opportunity, we are women empowering women – one sparkle at a time. The company is committed to empowering females and employs over 150 women. To date, the company has raised over $500,000 for organizations that support women and last year, she formed the Hillberg & Berk Foundation

Hillberg & Berk currently operates five retail locations — two full-sized stores and three ‘Sparkle Bar’ kiosks. Its downtown Regina flagship is in a converted house, and last month it opened a permanent 800 square foot store at downtown Saskatoon’s Midtown Plaza. Its Sparkle Bars are at downtown Regina’s Cornwall Centre as well as two Edmonton shopping centres — at Kingsway Mall, and at West Edmonton Mall.

HILLBERG & BERK at MIDTOWN PLAZA, SASKATOON. PHOTO: HILLBERG & BERK

Ms. Mielke says that over the next five years, Hillberg & Berk will look to open dozens of stores across Canada, with the intention of becoming a household name. Aurora Realty Consultants is representing the jeweller in its real estate search, under the direction of broker Jeri Brodie. Stores will ideally be in the 800 to 1,200 square foot range in malls or streetfront locations, according to Ms. Mielke.

Surplus Clothing to Launch New Store Concept

Image: Surplus clothing

Off-price fashion retailer Surplus Outlet is launching a full-price premium brand boutique next spring, called In by Surplus

Surplus clothing was founded in Montreal in 1999 with a location on Montreal’s trendy St.-Laurent Street in the city’s Mile End neighbourhood. It offers discount prices on popular brands such as Diesel, Superdry, OSC, G-STAR and more.  It currently operates four locations — on St.-Laurent Street Montreal, at Tanger Outlets Saint-Sauveur, at Outlet Collection at Niagara and at Heartland Town Centre in Mississauga.

The company’s new 3,000 square foot In by Surplus concept will open in March of 2016 at CF Markville Mall in Markham, just north of Toronto. The multi-brand concept will focus primarily on denim and footwear, with at least 10 high-profile footwear fashion brands. The full-price store will act as a “testing ground”, according to retailer partner Jones Liang, and if the new concept is well received, it will expand into more enclosed malls. 

Surplus Clothing and In by Surplus are both represented in Canada by brokerage Think Retail

Study Provides Canadian Retailers Insight into Millennials

A new study by yconic provides insight into Canadian Millennials, including how they spend their money. Called ‘The Millennial Shopper: More Social and Educated than Ever Before‘, the study describes the Millennial shopping process and how research, social media and experiences are key. 

The study describes Millennials as seeking ‘rich experiences’ that may include luxurious shopping, food and travel. Although many Millennials have debt, they are also earning money and spending it rather than saving it. A considerable number of Millennials also still live with their parents, providing discretionary income. 

The study says that Millennials (aged 19 to 34) make up about 30%, or 9.5 million Canadians. Their income is estimated at a whopping $237 billion, being about 21% of all income earned in Canada. Millennial spending grew substantially between 2009 and 2011 — spending on luxury fashion increasing by 33%, travel spending increased 74%, and fine dining spending increased by 102%. Those numbers are remarkable, given the short time period. 

Millennials now spend more than previous generations, according to the study. They’re also the first generation to have grown up through the information age, which is reflected in their shopping habits. The study describes Millennials as generally being brand loyal, though it notes considerable effort is required to gain and maintain that loyalty. Exceptional quality, price and authentic, positive brand experiences are therefore key. 

The study goes on to describe how Millennials learn about new products. Friends, family and advertising still play key roles, though the study notes that social media is now a very important component to increasing brand awareness among Canadian Millennials. 

The study goes into depth, discussing the steps Millennials take when purchasing, including discovery, pre-purchase, purchase, and post-purchase behaviour. The study then goes into detail about how technology and research influence decision making.

The study concludes with advice and other information on how brands can capture the Millennial dollar, and how to keep customers loyal post-purchase. The study has considerable detail not discussed above, and the full PDF can be downloaded here.  

About yconic: 

yconic operates Canada’s largest student help platform and youth-focused market research panel. yconic helps brands and agencies better understand and build meaningful connections with youth by offering Market Research and Insights, Digital Marketing and Talent Solutions. For more information, visit we.are.yconic.com.

Moncler Opens 2nd Canadian Location [Photos]

Italian luxury brand Moncler has opened its second free-standing Canadian location in Vancouver. It joins other premium brands in the city’s rapidly expanding ‘Luxury Zone’, including recently opened Brunello Cucinelli, Versace and Strellson locations. 

Located at 748 Thurlow Street within The Carlyle retail complex, Moncler joins retail locations for Tory Burch and De Beers, as well as a three-level Prada store that is under construction. More luxury brands will be announced for The Carlyle shortly. 

Vancouver’s Moncler features walls panelled in chêne fumé wood, and grigio carnico marble flooring. Its exterior features an innovative window display facing a laneway. The store was designed by Gilles & Boissier, the architectural firm involved with its stores worldwide. 

The store carries Moncler’s complete product range, including the Moncler Gamme Bleu and Moncler Gamme Rouge collections and two ready-to-wear lines, as well as footwear, bags, and leather goods.

Moncler’s first free-standing Canadian store opened in the summer of 2014 at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre.

Founded in Milan in 1952, Moncler is an apparel and lifestyle brand most known for its down jackets and sportswear. Moncler took its name from the abbreviation of Monestier-de-Clermont, an Alpine town near Grenoble, France. In 2003, the brand was bought by the Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini. Although founded in Italy, Moncler’s flagship store is on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Moncler currently operates 13 free-standing stores in the United States, including locations in Aspen CO, Atlanta, Bal Harbour FL, Beverly Hills, Boston, Chicago, Costa Mesa CA, Honolulu, Houston, Las Vegas (2 locations), New York City and Seattle.

Shoes.com Plans Substantial Brick-and-Mortar Expansion

Online footwear retailer Shoes.com plans to open stores nationally, complimenting its booming online business. We spoke with company Vice President of Brand and Retail, Geoff Henshaw, who explained why the pure play online retailer decided to move into physical stores, and why its locations will be unique and customizable.

Shoes.com was founded in 1996 and now carries over 500 designer brands, boasting annual online sales in excess of $300 million. The company is now headquartered in Vancouver, after being bought last year by Coastal Contacts founder, Roger Hardy. The company also recently bought a popular sock brand called Richer, Poorer to compliment its footwear business. 

Shoes.com’s first location opened last month on Toronto’s trendy Queen Street West. The boutique was originally intended to be a temporary pop-up, but the company has since decided that physical stores are part of its long-term game plan. Mr. Henshaw explained how only 3% of all footwear purchases are made online and if a retailer does brick-and-mortar in a ‘purposeful way’, there’s room to gain market share. The Queen Street store will revert to a long-term lease in March of 2016. 

Mr. Henshaw says that the retailer decided to open physical stores to connect with customers face-to-face, and that the company is looking to grow through omni-channel. Owner Roger Hardy used a similar strategy when his online retailer Coastal Contacts opened brick-and-mortar stores in Canada in the spring of 2013, and within the first year these stores saw sales in excess of $2,000 per square foot. 

Mr. Henshaw says that in 2016, Shoes.com will look to open physical stores in all major Canadian markets. Targeted cities include Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Ottawa, Montreal and others. Although its first physical store is on a retail high street in Toronto, Shoes.com will consider opening in mall locations as well, particularly given Canada’s weather. Shoes.com Stores will ideally be in the 2,000 square foot range, he said – about twice the size of the existing Queen Street store.

The Toronto Queen Street store is unique in how its interior is customizable. Photos in this article show the store featuring a ‘forest’ backdrop. Mr. Henshaw explained that backdrops are easily customizable and interchangeable and that this backdrop may soon change to reflect January’s push to promote Canadian brands. Every six weeks, the store will see a new theme. Product is also customizable, and individual Shoes.com stores may curate brands and styles to cater to local markets, as well as for various promotions.

In some respects, Shoes.com’s brick-and-mortar expansion is an experiment, and the company will continue to evaluate its operations. It’s testing two-hour home delivery in Toronto and if it proves popular, new store locations might require less backroom storage space. Once there’s proof that its stores are a winning concept, Shoes.com will look to roll them out not only in Canada, but in the United States as well. Mr. Henshaw revealed that an American store expansion is in the works for the second half of 2016. 

List of Retailers Opening and Expanding in Canada: Part 2

This is the second part to last week’s list of retailers opening and expanding in Canada. We’re seeing remarkable growth in both new retailers entering the country as well as those expanding existing operations, despite reports of a softening economy. The list below is by no means comprehensive, and many of those listed below have not been revealed to the general public until now. 

The following list of 35 retailers that are either entering the Canadian market, or are expanding their operations, is sponsored by Vancouver-based Peregrine, which custom designs and fabricates retail, display, furniture and architectural features for some of the country’s top retailers.

STORE NAMELOCATIONS TO OPEN IN CANADANEW OR EXPANDING?ESTIMATED # OF LOCATIONS POST-EXPANSION
Arctic Canadian Diamond2+ Vancouver locations soughtExpanding4+
Arhaus FurnitureNationwide ExpansionNewUnknown
AquascutumToronto 2017 launch, then Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Ottawa anticipatedNewTBD
Asian Food CentreMississauga, Brampton ON site selectionExpanding10+
Bizou3-5 for 2016, 150+ Canada-wide long-termExpanding250-300
BonLookMontreal now open, national expansion anticipatedExpandingTBD
Browns Shoes/B2 by BrownsBetween 8-10 in 2016, 4-6 each in 2017-2020Expanding80+
Cabela’sOttawa (Spring 2016), Abbotsford BC (fall 2016), Halifax 2017, 12+,Expanding12+
Change
of Scandinavia
Looking for central Toronto and Montreal locationsExpanding15+
FonelabOntario expansion (currently operates 3 GTA locations)ExpandingUnknow
Gerry WeberContinued Canadian expansion in better malls.Expanding15+, including 4 franchises
GNC22 Canadian locations in 2016.ExpandingOver 200
HatleyCanadian Expansion, details TBAExpanding15+
KohlerSeeking 1st Canadian store location in TorontoNewUnknown
Links of LondonCF Sherway Gardens (Toronto) freestanding — spring 2016, Square One (Mississauga) Holt Renfrew concession — spring 2016.Expanding8+
LUMAS GalleriesMontreal, Calgary (already open in Toronto & Vancouver)Expanding6+
Marc CainToronto (Eaton Centre) and Mississauga (Square One) in early 2016 (locations now open
Montreal, Ste-Foy, Calgary), more TBA
ExpandingUnknown
Mastermind ToysAggressive national expansion ongoingExpanding~75
MECCalgary (spring 2016), Kelowna BC (spring 2016), Toronto
(North York, summer 2016), Toronto (downtown replacement location, Queen Street West,
fall 2017)
Expanding20+
MerrellNational Expansion in 2016, 2 locations now openExpandingUnknown
Michael Hill Jewellers6 locations in 2016, 6 locations in 2017Expanding80 by 2018, final target of 110 stores
Mint AccessoriesVaughan Mills (Ontario) 2016, Montreal, national expansion anticipatedExpandingUknown
Mountain WarehouseBurnaby BC (Metropolis at Metrotown now open), national expansion ongoingExpanding15+
NordstromToronto (CF Eaton Centre, Yorkdale fall 2016, CF Sherway Gardens spring 2017), Edmonton possibly.Expanding7-10
Nordstrom RackToronto (speculated: One Bloor East), Other locations to be revealed when confirmed.NewApproximately 20
Perfumes 4 UNational Expansion (4 now open in Ontario and Quebec)ExpandingUnknown
Plato’s ClosetNational expansion including Ontario, Saskatchewan, ManitobaExpandingUnknown
Pusateri’s Fine FoodsToronto (Avenue Road replacement 2016), Oakville ON (early-mid 2016), at Saks CF Eaton Centre Queen Street, Saks CF Sherway Gardens, both February 2016)ExpandingTBA
ReissToronto (now open), Montreal, Vancouver, Calgary, other markets expected.ExpandingUknown
RudsakCalgary (CF Market Mall, now open), Ontario, Quebec, looking to open 20-25 more locations nationwide.Expanding50+
Saje Natural WellnessToronto, Halifax, Edmonton, Tssawwassen BC, other markets (aggressive expansion).Expanding50 by 2018
SephoraMajor 2016 Toronto/GTA expansion TBA (new locations/replacement/store expansions)ExpandingTBA
SHOO by Steve MaddenToronto (now open), national expansion anticipatedExpandingTBA
Urban BarnDowntown Toronto location sought, recently opened 2 Quebec locations, national expansion.Expanding70+
UniqloToronto (CF Eaton Centre, Yorkdale both opening fall 2016), Vancouver and other markets to followNewUnknown

Our next Peregrine-sponsored List of Retailers Opening and Expanding in Canada will be published early next month. We’ll also discuss what new retailers entered Canada in 2015. 

In early 2016, the University of Alberta School of Retailing’s Department of Applied Research will release a study revealing and discussing new brands confirmed to be entering Canada. We’ll   discuss the study once released. The research department is also available for hire, for companies/entities looking to conduct retail industry research. 

Free People Reveals Continued Canadian Expansion Plans

TORONTO YORKVILLE STORE. PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE

Popular American womenswear brand Free People is continuing a store expansion which will include larger stores as well as locations in new Canadian markets. We spoke with Beth Wehagen, Director of Retail, to get information on what’s in store for the brand in this country. 

Free People was established in 1984 and is known for its ‘bohemian-chic’ fashion. It sells women’s clothing, accessories, footwear, intimates, athletic wear and swimwear. The company is owned by Urban Outfitters Inc., also owner of retailers Anthropologie, BHLDNTerrain and Urban Outfitters, and is headquartered in Philadelphia.

The company’s first Canadian store opened in the summer of 2012 in Toronto’s Yorkville area and about three weeks later, a second Canadian location opened in Calgary’s CF Chinook Centre. In the fall of 2014, two Vancouver locations opened — one at West Vancouver’s Park Royal, the other on Vancouver’s tony South Granville shopping strip. 

Ms. Wehagen explained that Free People’s newer stores will be larger than previous ones. Canada’s first Free People locations measure in the 2,500-3,400 square foot range and moving forward, new stores will typically span in excess of 5,000 square feet. On October 30 of this year, Free People opened its largest Canadian stores, a 5,850 square foot location at CF Sherway Gardens and Ms. Wehagen revealed that next February, the brand will open a 5,400 square foot unit at CF Toronto Eaton Centre.

CF SHERWAY GARDENS STORE PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE

Ms. Wehagen explained that the company’s larger store format allows Free People to profile a broader range of fashions, including footwear and party dresses. The Eaton Centre location will also feature athletic ‘FP Movement wear’ when it opens, she said. 

Looking forward, Ms. Wehagen said several Canadian markets could see Free People stores. She specifically mentioned Edmonton, Montreal and Ottawa as possible markets, though the brand will carefully evaluate properties and markets before making expansion decisions. Free People locates its stores inside of shopping malls as well as on busy urban streets, providing ample opportunity for further Canadian expansion.

Photos below are of Free People’s lovely new CF Sherway Gardens location, provided by Free People. 

CF SHERWAY GARDENS STORE PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE
CF SHERWAY GARDENS STORE PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE
CF SHERWAY GARDENS STORE PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE
CF SHERWAY GARDENS STORE PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE
CF SHERWAY GARDENS STORE PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE

Versace Opens in Vancouver

Canada’s second Versace fashion store has opened in Vancouver. the 1,875 square foot boutique joins recently opened locations for Brunello Cucinelli and Strellson, all located in the base of the new 745 Thurlow Street office tower. Versace occupies municipal address 747 Thurlow Street.

Versace held a by invitation-only private cocktail party last week, hosted by Vogue Magazine, and Retail Insider’s Helen Siwak was in attendance.

Italian brand Moncler just opened across the street from Versace at 748 Thurlow Street, and a three-level Prada flagship is under construction at the southeast corner of Alberni Street and Thurlow Streets, in the area now referred to as Vancouver’s ‘Luxury Zone’. Sources say that more luxury brands are negotiating to open nearby. 

Canada’s first free-standing Versace fashion store, measuring 2,820 square feet, opened in the summer of 2014 at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre. The Italian luxury fashion brand was founded by the late Gianni Versace in 1978, and it is seeing a resurgence as it opens stores around the world. Upscale Vancouver-based fashion retailer Leone continues to operate a Versace shop-in-store, and Versace Home opened last summer in Vancouver’s Gastown area. 

Installation of Italian lime plaster sealed with Marsi soap wax. Photo Darrell Morrison
PHOTO: DARRELL MORRISON

745 Thurlow is a 25 storey office tower encompassing 400,000 square feet at the southwest corner of Thurlow and Alberni Streets. The tower is designed to achieve LEED ‘Core and Shell’ Gold certification – the first office tower in downtown Vancouver to do so. 

Versace was represented by Stan Vyriotes and David Wedemire of DWSV Remax Ultimate Realty Incorporated, and Larissa Jacobson (604-661-5066) at Bentall Kennedy (Canada) LP handled retail leasing for the landlord. 

Victoria’s Secret Opens Massive Montreal Flagship [Photos]

America’s largest lingerie retailer, Victoria’s Secret, has opened its second-largest store in the world, in Montreal. Located at 1171 Sainte-Catherine Street West, Victoria’s Secret replaces a Chapters bookstore that formerly occupied the location

The new Montreal store spans a total of 33,162 square feet and of that, 21,346 square feet is dedicated to sales floor space. In comparison, the Vancouver Robson Street flagship, which opened in August of 2013 and was previously Canada’s largest, features a sales floor of 16,696 square feet. Both stores are smaller than the company’s 60,000 square foot Herald Square location in New York City and in November of 2016 Victoria’s Secret’s largest store, measuring 63,780 square feet, will open on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. 

The Montreal store features three selling floors, including a basement level dedicated to the retailer’s PINK line. The company’s entire assortment of signature bras, panties and sleepwear are featured, as well as its sport, beauty and swim lines. A marble and glass staircase connects all three floors, and 45 video screens and over 2,000 mirrors surround the store. 

Sainte-Catherine Street West has seen several new retailers recently open, including large locations for Vancouver-based women’s fashion retailer Aritzia, Dutch denim brand G-Star, and H&M-owned COS. Many popular retailers line the street and to the west is department store Ogilvy (set to merge with Holt Renfrew) and to the east is La Maison Simons, Hudson’s Bay, Maison Birks‘ global flagship and, in the fall of 2018, Saks OFF 5TH will open a large location at Montreal Eaton Centre. The street will soon see a public realm revamp that will include more trees, street furniture, free WiFi and heated sidewalks. 

Montreal-based Aurora Realty Consultants represented Victoria’s Secret in the lease deal. 

Dollarama Reaches Store Count Milestone

Montreal-based dollar store chain retailer Dollarama reached a milestone at the end of the third quarter of 2015, surpassing 1,000 store locations nationally. The company says that it plans to eventually operate about 1,400 Canadian stores. 

Dollarama now operates 1,005 Canadian locations, having opened between 70 and 80 in the year 2015. Sales increased 6.4% during the third quarter ended Nov 1, 2015, up from a 5.9% increase the year prior. New store openings and same store sales increases saw Dollarama grow sales by 13% to $664.5 million, with net income rising to $100.1 million and earnings per share increasing 41.8% to 78 cents, from 55 cents the year prior. 

An increase in average transaction is credited, partially, for driving same-store sales growth. Almost 60% of sales came from items priced higher than $1.25. The retailer will increase its highest price point to up to $4 in the second quarter of 2017, it says — up from 2009’s per-item high of $2. “We have done very well so far this year with managing the significant deterioration of the Canadian dollar through the use of foreign exchange contracts in order to hedge the cost of merchandise paid for in U.S. dollars. Certainly our pricing strategy has contributed to some of the uplift seen in the gross margin so far in Fiscal 2016” said Dollarama CEO Larry Rossy. 

Dollarama is preparing to test accepting credit cards in British Columbia early next year at more than 80 stores. “What we’re looking for is to improve the shopping experience of our customers while stimulating more sales to offset the costs,” said CFO Michael Ross. Higher-priced items, and resulting higher margins, may facilitate this move. Dollarama currently accepts cash and debit cards for payment.