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Why The Declining Canadian Dollar is Putting Increased Pressure on the profitability of Many Canadian Retailers

The ongoing increase in the level of competition in the Canadian Retail Market, together with the ongoing shift to “omni-channel retailing” has “raised the bar” on Canadian consumer expectations. The dual impact of these two major factors has pressured many home-grown retailers, in particular those who don’t have strong balance sheets and deep pools of talent, thus inhibiting their ability to effectively compete in this new environment, referred to often as the “new normal”.
 
If these factors weren’t enough to pressure these retailers, the recent massive decline (more than 25%) in the Canadian dollar relative to the US dollar could be the trigger  that will force  many of these weaker retailers to restructure or reinvent. Given the sharp increase in the rate of direct importing that is tied to the US currency, this will significantly increase the cost of merchandise for these direct importing retailers. For those with strong brands, we expect that the impact will be more muted as their ability to raise selling prices to offset the increased merchandise cost is much greater. However we expect that the retailers with weaker brands and/or more price-sensitive customers will be hard-pressed to raise prices without the risk of major decreases in volumes sold. For these weaker retailers, merchandise margins will be hard hit and profitability will be impaired, which might be a decisive factor in leading to a restructuring. This typically results in many store closures and job losses. Many of these retailers already borrow on a secured basis to fund their businesses, which will result in closer scrutiny from their lenders. Not a happy situation for the “faint of heart”

According to our industry expert Antony Karabus, CEO, HRC Advisory, a leading retail advisory firm, the combined effect of these factors will be significant for many retailers who are already struggling to retain their market share.
 
According to Mr. Karabus, the Canadian retail market ‘pie’ is only so large. As international retailers continue to enter the Canadian market and as stronger Canadian retailers continue to win market share, a number of weaker Canadian retailers may languish or even worse, shutter. The overall Canadian retail market will see modest growth over the next year, other than possibly a windfall from reducing the extent of cross border shopping (Canadians have a long history in driving across the border to the US for shopping, currently estimated at $8 billion). Mr. Karabus believes that cross border shopping will decline due to the weaker Canadian dollar (thus making it more expensive to shop in the US) and the increased presence of world-class retailers in Canadian malls.
 
In summary, the declining Canadian dollar could prove to be yet another source of stress for the weaker direct importing retailers, particularly for those unable to raise prices due to lack of brand strength. For those unable to raise prices or to hedge their inventory, margins will decline significantly. Mr. Karabus suggests that those retailers who cater to less price-sensitive customers and have strong brands and differentiated value propositions will successfully weather the low exchange rate storm without major impact to their profitability.

Mr. Karabus commented that a number of Canadian retailers are already seeing much success from their transformations and investments in stores, digital and talent, including Hudson’s Bay Company, Sport Chek, Canadian Tire, Aldo, Loblaw, Shoppers Drug Mart, Harry Rosen, Holt Renfrew, Indigo and others. These retailers have strong balance sheets, deep talent pools and strong brand assets. They have been able to afford to invest in their growth and/or transformation strategies and are able to weather the storms created by the decline in the Canadian dollar.
 
Mr. Karabus notes that in addition to the above investments in the retailers’ bricks-and-mortar operations, the additional investment needed to enable omni-channel and mobile shopping is significant and the payback will not be swift, thanks to the pressure imposed by Amazon.com from free shipping and free returns. However these investments fall into the category of “table stakes”—they are mandatory as consumers increasingly seek omni-channel experiences, to shop on their smart phones and the like. 
 
What it will come down to is the increasing gap between the ‘winners’ and ‘losers’ within the industry. Although Canada has many world class retailers, there are many others who will face an uphill battle to survive and thrive.

About Our Expert: 

Mr. Karabus became CEO of HRC Advisory in January of 2013. He has been a trusted and passionate advisor to retailers on strategic and financial performance issues for over 25 years. He has assisted numerous North American retailers to create significant shareholder value during this time. He has worked with numerous well known retail chains in key sectors such as department store, specialty apparel and hard lines, big box chains and food and convenience.

Antony began his career at Arthur Andersen in Cape Town, South Africa and moved with the firm to Toronto, where he founded Karabus Management as a Canadian retail advisory firm in 1990. In 2001, Karabus Management expanded into the United States, where the firm became a leading North American specialist retail consulting firm. In 2008 he sold the firm to an International Accounting/Consulting firm where he served as the leader of that firm’s Retail Consulting Services practice until he left the firm in December 2011.

Antony conducts annual surveys of Retail CFO and CEOs to determine key priorities in assisting their business to enable substantive value creation.

Antony is a recognized speaker and a published author providing thought leadership at industry forums, including the National Retail Federation, Retail Council of Canada, World Retail Congress and the Fashion Institute of Technology and providing content to The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, Stores Magazine, The Globe & Mail, Chain Store Age, National Post, Toronto Star and Women’s Wear Daily, among others.

About HRC: HRC Advisory is a specialist boutique retail advisory firm. Together with its predecessor firms, it has been assisting Canadian and US Retail Chains to improve their profitability and strategic positioning for more than 25 years. Many of HRC’s senior advisors were previously at Senn Delaney Retail Consultants and Karabus Management following retail leadership roles. Other senior advisors at HRC have a mix of retail leadership and retail consulting experience gained with other leading firms
 
HRC has significant retail depth in strategic planning, buying, merchandise planning and inventory management, indirect procurement, store operations and omni-channel processes, supply chain/logistics and fulfillment, and comprehensive cost optimization services. HRC has worked extensively with both healthy top performing chains as well as developing and executing turnaround mandates at a number of retailers in difficult situations. For more information, please visit www.HRCadvisory.com.

German Womenswear Brand Gerry Weber Plans Aggressive Canadian Expansion

International womenswear brand Gerry Weber plans to open multiple free-standing locations across the country. It will open eight Canadian locations this year, with its first six locations scheduled to open this spring in Southern Ontario. Although these will be Gerry Weber’s first corporate stores in Canada, the brand has operated franchised locations in Ontario and British Columbia for several years. 

Founded in 1973 in Halle, Germany, moderately-priced Gerry Weber targets women over the age of 30. The brand features women’s ready-to-wear as well as accessories, leathergoods and footwear. The brand has over 1,000 company managed locations around the world, as well as more than 2,800 shop-in-stores. It employs over 5,000 worldwide. Its goal next year is to generate sales in excess of one billion Euros. 

Gerry Weber will open its first corporate Canadian location on March 26 at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre. This store will be the company’s Canadian flagship. In April, locations will open at Upper Canada Mall in Newmarket, and at Scarborough Town Centre in Toronto. In May, Gerry Weber locations will open at Vaughan Mills, Square One Shopping Centre in Mississauga, and at Outlet Collection at Niagara, near Niagara Falls. 

Gerry Weber currently operates four Canadian franchised locations — three in Ontario, and one in British Columbia. The Ontario locations include stores at 1177 Yonge Street in Toronto, a location in downtown Burlington, and a shop on Richmond Road in Ottawa. A Gerry Weber franchise also operates at 1849 Marine Drive in West Vancouver, operated by by iconic Vancouver-based retailer Edward Chapman

Sources say that two more southern Ontario locations will be announced for this year, and that Gerry Weber is now seeking retail space in Western Canada. 

Gerry Weber is represented by brokerage Oberfeld Snowcap. Gerry Weber seeks retail space in the 1,800 – 2,000 square foot range, ideally in enclosed malls. 

We’ll update you when we learn more on Gerry Weber’s Canadian store expansion.  

Retailers to Open Under Vancouver’s Nordstrom are Revealed

Landlord Cadillac Fairview has revealed a list of nine tenants which will occupy the retail space below Vancouver’s Nordstrom at Pacific Centre. Retailers in the 44,000 square foot space are expected to open in June of this year. The list of tenants include the following: 
 
•    B2 (by Browns Shoes)
•    HUGO BOSS Store
•    Kate Spade
•    Microsoft
•    PANDORA
•    Rockport
•    Ted Baker London
•    TUMI
•    Weekend Max Mara

“We are thrilled to announce the arrival of 9 world-class brands at Pacific Centre,” says Tom Knoepfel, Senior Vice President and Portfolio Manager, Cadillac Fairview. “These stores will enhance the shopping experience for our customers and give them another reason to shop downtown. Having the best selection of international fashion and tech retailers in one convenient location is a key factor in Pacific Centre’s continued success.”

We’ve recently discussed a number of these retailers. Last week we revealed that British fashion label Ted Baker will open its first Canadian store outside of Toronto in the mall, and we also recently discussed Kate Spade, Rockport and, last year, we revealed that Weekend Max Mara would open under Nordstrom, complementing the franchisee’s Max Mara location upstairs in the same mall. 

According to Cadillac Fairview, four additional retailers will be announced in the coming weeks, and are scheduled to open in the retail expansion by fall 2015. 

Designed by Vancouver-based architect James K.M. Cheng, the new building will also include a three-level 230,000 square foot flagship Nordstrom store. Nordstrom will open on Friday, September 18. The top four levels of the former Sears building have been converted to 290,000 square feet of AAA class office space and will be home to the head office of Sony Pictures Imageworks, the Vancouver offices of Microsoft, and law firm Miller Thomson.

Analysis: A Visit to a Canadian Whole Foods, and Why it’s Successful

By J.C. Williams Group

There has been a lot of discussion about Whole Foods Market recently. This Texas-based food retailer has made headlines with strong sales growth and sweet margins, plentiful store expansions, price cuts, and much more. They certainly have made a name for themselves in a tough economic climate when other retailers are packing up and leaving town in a hurry. Even with the “whole paycheck” reputation, out there on main street, they are winning. Therefore, with all this commotion, I thought I would pay them a visit at their Mississauga Square One location (just outside Toronto).

Overall, Whole Foods is a paradise for the healthy “foodie.” There is no other way to describe them. Now don’t get me wrong, you pay a premium for what you get but wow is it ever fun! Now hold on, before I go further I must declare that I have joined the millions of North Americans who have started eating healthy recently and my affection for them may be a little biased. Here is my assessment. Take it with a grain of salt substitute!

1. Indie Grocery shop feel – when you walk through the store you feel like you are in a local independent grocer. For Toronto-dwellers, think Bruno’s. Speckled floor tiles; folksy feel; Lots of earthy colors and fixtures make you feel like you drove outside the city and stumbled upon a great hidden farmers market.

2. Huge differentiated assortment – they sell food, but they also sell a healthy lifestyle and do a great job assorting that way. In the produce section they have an organic tent that talks to great tasting products that just happen to be great for you. Seafood is “conscientiously caught.” Beef is from “Rain Crow Ranch.” Bread is “naturally kneaded.” Coffee is “sustainably sourced.” There is a “gluten-free” zone as well. Never before have I seen an end cap with a Key Value Item (KVI) of organic Kale Chips.

3. Wonderful branding and signage – as per point 2 above, they sell a lifestyle. Their use of in-store signage is excellent. They educate the shopper at every major category station with buyer’s guides and use graphics to give you that country farm feel. It all comes together to reinforce your thinking that drives you to make that smart and healthy purchase that day. Core values and quality standards are clearly and proudly posted near the cash.

4. Community – a big part of Whole Foods Market is community. It reinforces their lifestyle branding and marketing. Shoppers can sit in a large, welcoming cafe at one of many “community tables” or review local community bulletin boards. You can come in and bottle your own water here. The store acts like a healthy foodie “safe house” where all is right and everyone around them has the same philosophy about eating. A homecoming if you will.

5. Merchandising for margin – it’s not just about feeling healthy and being part of a community. These folks are very smart about making money. Their financials show it too. When you enter the store on the right, you enter a large and profitable fresh produce section which leads to an inspirational meat and seafood offering at the back. Organic is everywhere and we all know organic equals high margin. The lower profit dry goods section in the centre is memorable for lots of differentiated higher-profit items. The left side of the store consists of a profit-driving bakery and a lucrative fresh ready-made section that offers high margins yet again.

In summary, Whole Foods Market does it right! They have grown and harvested a high margin market segment and “serve up” what they want, how they want it, in a way that talks to their high-value customers effectively. They are a great example to look to for success within the retail industry.

Are you doing it as well as Whole Foods Market? Let’s discuss over a healthy salad!

Bruce Winder, Senior Advisor, J.C. Williams Group
bwinder@jcwg.com, 416-705-5627

J.C. Williams Group is a well-known, full-service retail and marketing consulting firm. It offers clients practical, creative, and in-depth knowledge of retailing and marketing, including up-to-date know-how and techniques to make retail operations better and more profitable. You can also read their informative blog, Retaileye, here: retaileye.wordpress.com

Ogilvy/Holt’s to Include Adjacent Condos Averaging $5-Million Above 5-Star Hotel

Montreal’s 220,000 square foot Ogilvy/Holt Renfrew will boast an adjacent 75 affluent households who won’t have to leave the indoors to shop in its store. The tower development will feature luxury condos as well as 50,000 square feet of retail and a five-star hotel, with a total cost estimated at about $400 million. 

If everything goes as planned, the new Ogilvy/Holt Renfrew will open at the end of 2017, according to the Montreal Gazette. Holt Renfrew will reveal further details on the new 220,000 luxury store within the next few weeks, including details pertaining to its branding. Holt Renfrew initially announced that the store’s name will be Ogilvy, part of the Holt Renfrew & Co. collection

A further 50,000 square feet of retail space will be included in the project, with connections on several levels to Ogilvy/Holt’s. Some are already speculating that Eataly could locate on the premises, as Ogilvy/Holt Renfrew parent company Selfridge’s Group is said to be bringing the Italian food concept to Canada, beginning with a Toronto location within close proximity to Holt Renfrew’s Bloor Street flagship. Other sources contradict the above, saying that the Montreal space is very unlikely to become Eataly. We must therefore clarify that Eataly is currently only a rumour for the new Montreal project. 

A five-star hotel will locate immediately above the new retail space, boasting a 400-person ballroom. The entire project is being developed by Montreal-based Carbonleo, which is also looking to build a 3-million square foot mega-mall north of downtown Montreal. Including the cost of land, Carbonleo estimates the entire project’s cost to be $400-million. 

Luxury condominiums will begin on the 12th floor of the tower located above the hotel. Featuring 11 foot ceilings, condominium units will span approximately 3,500 square feet and at an estimated $1,400 per square foot, will cost an average of $5-million. These will be among the priciest condominiums in Montreal, along with the nearby luxury residences at the Ritz Carlton

Ogilvy/Holt’s will compete with luxury department store Saks Fifth Avenue, which announced plans to open at least one Montreal location. Sources at parent company Hudson’s Bay Company won’t confirm any Montreal Saks locations, though many speculate that Saks could land at Cadillac Fairview-owned Carrefour Laval

We’ll update you when Holt Renfrew provides further information on its new Ogilvy/Holt Renfrew store. 

Ted Baker to Open Pacific Centre Location

Popular British fashion brand Ted Baker will open this June at Vancouver’s Pacific Centre. It will be the third full-priced Canadian location for Ted Baker, and the first to be located outside of Toronto. 

Ted Baker will locate below the mall’s new Nordstrom, joining brands such as Kate Spade, Microsoft Store, Rockport, Hugo Boss, Tumi, Pandora, and Weekend Max Mara. Nordstrom, itself, will open on September 18th of this year.

Ted Baker’s first Canadian location opened in October of 2012 in the newest expansion of Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre. The roughly 3,200 square foot store is across the hall from the recently expanded Holt Renfrew store. Ted Baker’s second Canadian location opened last November at Toronto Eaton Centre – spanning an impressive 3,800 square feet. Ted Baker’s only Canadian outlet store opened in August of 2013 at the Toronto Premium Outlets.

Ted Baker’s two full-priced Toronto locations carry both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear as well as footwear, accessories, and other Ted Baker products. Its Toronto Eaton Centre location takes the concept one step further, featuring a layout reflecting that of a British shopping arcade, complete with an umbrella shop, watchmaker, optician, jeweller, perfumery and tea shop.

Black Goat Cashmere Eyes Cross-Canada Expansion, Opens 1st Toronto Location

Vancouver-based cashmere brand Black Goat is expanding beyond Canada’s West Coast, having recently opened a boutique in the heart of Toronto’s Mink Mile. The retailer plans to open more Canadian locations over the next several years, and we spoke with CEO Robert Remy to learn more.

Black Goat’s cashmere products are designed in Vancouver and manufactured in Mongolia with the highest-quality cashmere. The company is vertically integrated, and sells a variety of cashmere products for men and women. Until last week, its only two brick-and-mortar store locations were both in Vancouver. Its downtown Vancouver location, at 925 West Georgia Street, benefits from heavy foot traffic and is across the street from Gucci, Omega, Louis Vuitton and other luxury retailers. Its second Vancouver location on Vancouver’s tony South Granville strip is more of a ‘destination’, lacking heavy foot traffic.

Last week, Black Goat opened a 650 square foot retail space at The Colonnade in Toronto. Located at 131 Bloor Street West, the plaza is considered by many to be Canada’s most prestigious retail address, with tenants such as Chanel, Prada, Mulberry and Cartier.

Mr. Remy tells us that he’s opened a Toronto store because of customer demand. Black Goat enjoys a robust online business, and multiple requests from Torontonians prompted Mr. Remy to seek brick-and-mortar retail space. Mr. Remy says brick-and-mortar is preferable over wholesaling, as his stores can carry the entire range of the brand’s cashmere products. 

Mr. Remy says that a number of Hollywood stars are fans of his brand. This is partly a result of Vancouver’s robust film industry, which sometimes purchases product from his stores. To protect confidentiality, Mr. Remy declined to name names.

Regarding future Canadian expansion, Mr. Remy says that a Calgary Black Goat location is a possibility, although a location has yet to be found. Montreal and Ottawa are also possibilities and Mr. Remy says that the brand could possibly eventually operate as many as three Toronto locations. Given that Black Goat does exceptional online sales in New York City, California (which he initially found surprising), London, and other markets, international expansion is also a possibility some day. 

We’ll continue to keep you updated on Black Goat’s Canadian expansion. 

Bizou Plans Substantial Store Expansion

BIZOU
IMAGE: BIZOU

Quebec-based women’s jewellery and accessories brand Bizou is looking to substantially expand its store base over the next several years, eventually operating hundreds of locations. We spoke with the company’s administrative and corporate affairs manager Alain Duval to learn more. 

Founded in Quebec City in 1982, Bizou specializes in women’s moderately-priced fashion jewellery and accessories. Its product mix is about 60% for jewellery and 40% accessories. Its target market is women aged 18 to 35, seeking stye and affordability. The company designs its own products and retails them in over 120 retail stores in six Canadian provinces. The company employs over 500 people. Bizou currently operates Canadian locations in Quebec, Ontario, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Prince Edward Island. 

According to Mr. Duval, Bizou could eventually operate between 250 and 300 Canadian store locations, coast-to-coast. Bizou is currently looking to expand into Western Canada and is seeking a regional franchise partner. The brand is also looking to further expand into Ontario, as well as into the Atlantic provinces. The Quebec market, however, is almost saturated, having in excess of 85 Bizou locations to date – although three locations are on the way for that province. 

PHOTO: BIZOU

Bizou will open between four and five stores a year, and this year, so far, the brand has announced that it will open stores at Galeries d’Anjou in Montreal, Les Promenades Gatineau just north of Ottawa, as well as in the International Terminal at the Montreal-Pierre Elliot Trudeau International Airport. Bizou already has a location in the airport’s Domestic Terminal. 

Bizou is looking for retail space generally in the 700 to 800 square foot range, primarily in enclosed malls, lifestyle centres, airports, and busy streetfronts. Several months ago, Bizou opened its first outlet location at Premium Outlets Montreal, and more outlet locations could eventually follow. 

Mr. Duval says that Bizou’s successful international expansion into the Middle East and France could see it eventually expand into the United States, as well. 

Bizou is represented in Canada by Tony Flanz of Montreal-based brokerage Think Retail

 

WLKN Secures $3 Million Financing for Store Expansion

Image: WLKN

Quebec City-based street wear and urban clothing retail concept WLKN is looking to open three stores this year, after recently securing $3 million in financing. It will also renovate its Quebec City flagship as it celebrates five years in business. We spoke with its CEO, Pierre Mercier, to learn more. 

Founded in 2010, WLKN offers a wide selection of merchandise targeting young and trendy customers including unisex clothing, jewelry, sunglasses, wallets and other accessories from over 150 international brands such as: Grizzly, Crooks and Castles, Homme + Femme, Obey and Vans. The company also designs and sell its own products. It currently operates two stores – one in Quebec City (2828 Chemin Quatre-Bourgeois) and the other at Quartier DIX30 in Brossard, just outside of Montreal. The Brossard store opened in October of 2014 and its WLKN’s CEO says it does exceptional sales at both locations. 

WLKN considers itself to be a niche retailer which prides itself on carrying unique brands and product exclusives, as well as offering exceptional customers service. Staff are paid higher than industry wages to encourage loyalty. 

According to Mr. Mercier, WLKN is now ready to further expand their brand across Canada. The retailer is seeking retail space in the 3,500 to 4,500 square foot range in urban streetfront, power centres and high-traffic enclosed malls. According to retail leasing reference website Locations!, WLKN is represented by Oberfeld Snowcap with the following contacts: Ben Labrecque (ben@oberfeldsnowcap.com) 514-670-3002 or Kathleen McGuigan (514) 738-4330 (kathleen@oberfeldsnowcap.com).

Mr. Mercier says he’s currently negotiating for retail space in central Ottawa, and that he’s seeking retail space in Hamilton — possibly Lime Ridge Mall,  and at Scarborough Town Centre suburban Toronto. Ultimately, Mr. Mercier says he could see three or four Toronto locations, possibly another in Montreal, and possibly stores in Alberta and British Columbia, depending on economic factors. He says WLKN could eventually operate as many as 10 Canadian stores, and could even expand into Los Angeles and other American cities. 

In November of 2015, WLKN will celebrate its 5th anniversary. As part of the celebration, the Quebec City flagship will be overhauled.

UK Fashion Brand REISS to Open in Canada

Popular London-based fashion brand Reiss will open its first Canadian location this spring at Toronto Eaton Centre. The 2,500 square foot store will locate across from upscale new tenants including Kate Spade and Hugo Boss, both currently under construction. 

A favourite of Princess Kate Middleton, Reiss was founded by David Reiss in 1971. The moderately-priced, youthful brand sells women’s and men’s apparel, as well as accessories and footwear. 

Reiss first entered the United States in 2005 with a New York City location. The brand initially struggled and closed several locations. The brand reaffirmed its commitment to the U.S. in 2011, stating that it plans to eventually operate about 100 American stores. It currently operates locations in New York, New Jersey, California, Massachusetts, Florida, Illinois, Maryland, and Virginia. 

Given the numbers above, Reiss could eventually operate approximately 10 Canadian locations. 

We’ll report more on Reiss’ Canadian store expansion in the coming months, as sources confirm that the brand has been speaking with various Canadian landlords. 

Thank you Chopper1953 of Urban Toronto for notifying us of the new Reiss store.