Poppy Barley at Edmonton's Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)
Poppy Barley, Edmonton’s famed leather bespoke footwear company, opened a 1,000-square foot flagship at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre last week.
Opening day festivities included a meet-and-greet at noon with Style at Home’s Editor-in-Chief, Erin McLaughlin. The brand’s Mexican Operations Manager, Laura Obregon-Cordova (who is also the brand’s first employee), traveled to Edmonton for the occasion. Taking a cue from Willy Wonka, five lucky customers who purchased in-store received an envelope at checkout containing a Golden Ticket that entitles them to free shoes. Select designs from the brand’s fall 2017 collection were also unveiled.
The flagship not only contains made-to-measure design styles, but also a select number of ready-to-wear designs. The brand is bringing the online experience to the store through a made-to-measure consultation lounge and a tactile leather wall displaying the designs. This is intended to introduce new customers to Poppy Barley’s bespoke business model, and also provide an offline experience for the initiated clientele. Poppy Barley intends to convert its long-standing Whyte Avenue location into office space, with client-facing measurements migrating to the new flagship.
Poppy Barley was founded in 2012 by sisters Justine and Kendall Barber, creating bespoke shoes for women. The brand, known for their distinct colours and unique eye for detail, eschews the traditional ready-to-wear line in favour of bespoke shoes, which are designed and created online by their clientele. In order to accommodate varying requirements, customers are invited to submit their measurements online, and the shoes will be hand-made and delivered right to their door (for a flat fee of $9.95), creating the ultimate bespoke footwear experience. Due to demand, the brand has expanded to include a men’s line, while remaining at an affordable price point for consumers.
Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)
Poppy Barley’s aesthetic crosses numerous demographics, and easily transitions from day-to-night. It remains the very first North American footwear brand to offer made-to-measure boots online. As their designs are not intended to be mass-produced, their more popular designs often sell out. Prior to the launch of its first-ever brick-and-mortar location, Poppy Barley hosted pop-up shops in Edmonton, Calgary, Regina, Toronto, and Vancouver. The pop-up shops are so in-demand that appointments for their events sell out weeks in advance. Those familiar with the brand have long sought it out at select boutiques, such as their very recently expanded shop-in-shop at Vancouver’s Nicole Bridger in historic Gastown.
The brand is noted for its involvement with the community and for sustainability. Poppy Barley shoes are made in León, Mexico. Partner factories are chosen to commit to the brand’s goals for environmentally-friendly footwear and reduce its carbon footprint. “Our suppliers are exceptionally innovative, environmentally conscious and forward-thinking”, says Caroline Gault, the brand’s Director of Content and Community. “Right now, our tannery cleans and recycles the water it uses in the leather tanning process so that the water can be safely restored into the water system”.
Poppy Barley brings an edgier, design-conscious aesthetic to Southgate Centre, representing a homegrown Canadian success story. “We’re focused on making our first physical retail environment in Edmonton a rich and fulfilling experience for our customers, and our team”, Gault said. Long known as a best-kept secret, Poppy Barley has developed a fiercely devoted clientele of tastemakers, and should enjoy much success in its new flagship. And the Southgate location might not be the brand’s last permanent freestanding store — Calgary and Vancouver could be next, pending performance at the Southgate flagship.
See below for more store photos, courtesy of Poppy Barley.
Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)Poppy Barley at Edmonton’s Southgate Centre (Image: Poppy Barley)
Let’s Talk! Email Me @: Contact_Me@raange.com; Text Me @: (514) 613-3324 with Keyword ‘Listen’
I love talking about the customer lifecycle because I spend my days acting as the bridge connecting my clients with their customers.
And sometimes I’m left wondering if we’re truly listening to the customer, not customers – each unique customer. It doesn’t seem like it.
I cringe as companies blast one message across an entire database. Your database should be your lifeline. Your golden ticket to loyalty, to sales targets and to increased customer lifetime value.
Demand Better Results From Your Database
You’ve invested so much time and effort into building this beautiful database full of loyal clientele, not to mention the team you invest in (operating costs) to craft the perfect communique for distribution; you should never risk letting one message push customers away and diminish your brand.
The larger your database, the more powerful your ROI should be.
I’m not talking figuratively either, according to a recent 2017 Mobile Consumer Report retailers found that their average database subscriber spends over $300 a year more than customers who haven’t opted-in.
Optimizing the way you utilize your database to increase retention will drive better customer engagement and sales.
How Do You Make Amends with your Database? Commit to Personalization.
New Adlucent research found that consumers prefer a personalized advertising experience and that 71% of respondents prefer ads tailored to interests and shopping habits.
Personalization powered by preferences.
Quite often we make decisions backed by research-driven assumptions, when sometimes you just have to ask your customers what they want. Sounds old school, but it works.
Businesses need to start collecting unique customer preference data. By giving each customer control over the information s/he receives, you can ensure they get the information they want.
Collecting preferences to power a personalized experience is a good approach to showing each customer that you are listening.
Eric Nykamp is CEO of Raange, Inc., Founder at Mamoth-Group, TAARGA, RAANGE and Mamoth-Labs! Internet Strategist, Entrepreneur, Inventor, Investor, Husband, Father, Insomniac.
My goal is to elevate traditional brick & mortar retailers to quickly and easily transition to the latest marketing concepts and communication channels, to rebuild trusted dialogue with their past, present, and future customers.
Landlord Cadillac Fairview has completed a $21 million redevelopment of its 40-acre CF Shops at Don Mills property in Toronto. Renovations include public realm upgrades, expanded entertainment zones, and an overall enhancement of the amenity offerings to the outdoor lifestyle shopping centre.
The centre, which opened to the public in 2009, upgraded its landscaping, furniture, and seating options, as well as added new art installations that have revitalized the look of the property. The centre’s existing water feature has been refreshed to include ‘artistic features’, according to Cadillac Fairview.
“CF Shops at Don Mills is more than a shopping centre, it’s a 40-acre, integrated community, featuring a range of independent and international retail brands, office space, elevated dining options, as well as a community park, three residential towers, with four to follow, and a future community centre,” said Niall Collins, Senior Vice President, Development, Cadillac Fairview. “When we began transforming the centre last year, our intent was to provide further integration with the growing condo community and amplify what was already a vibrant, mixed-use destination where people come together.”
Customer feedback led to updated wayfinding for pedestrians includes improved walkways which include wider sidewalks, new access points, and improved site-wide signage. A new pedestrian connection off Karl Fraser Road was installed to offer better access from the centre’s four-level parking structure. Mr. Collins explained how, after studying pedestrian traffic patterns, it was decided that the new connection should be created by relocating the centre’s Browns Shoes store to create the pedestrian access, which will soon include several smaller retail concepts facing onto the walkway.
Vehicular navigation also saw a recent revamp, including adding new illuminated digital signage and large entry identifier pylons. The centre’s four-level parkade has been updated with digital signage that displays real-time parking counts — the 1,000 stall structure offers free parking for visitors. In total, CF Shops at Don Mills has over 2,900 parking spaces for visitors.
CF Shops at Don Mills’ entertainment experience zones at the junction of Leadly Lane and Karl Fraser Road have been expanded, as well as O’Neil Road with patio zones and overhead catenary lighting. These spaces, along with the centre’s ‘Town Square’, offer opportunity to host outdoor events and activities throughout the year, assisted by a property-wide music speaker system meant to heighten the ambiance.
Nick Iozzo, Director, Leasing at Cadillac Fairview, explained how CF Shops at Don Mills has provided the landlord the opportunity to incubate, curate, experiment and innovate. He noted that Cineplex launched and tested its first VIP theatre concept at CF Shops at Don Mills, and how a number of unique concepts have become part of the mix. High-end performance bike shop ‘The 11’ recently launched at the centre, and King Street-based body art concept Black Line Studio will soon open its first uptown location at CF Shops at Don Mills. What’s resulted is a unique outdoor community centre that has also seen a number of ‘firsts’ added to its premises, including the fall 2017 opening of Toronto’s first Starbucks Reserve Bar, which will span an impressive 3,800 square feet.
Mr. Iozzo also noted that the centre saw the opening of sporting goods retailer Salomon‘s first store in North America in the spring of 2009, Anthropologie‘s first Canadian store (also in 2009), art photography retailer YellowKorner‘s first Canadian location, Mark McEwan‘s first grocery store, and online retailer Well.ca‘s first brick-and-mortar location. Frank and Oak‘s first shopping centre store opened at CF Shops at Don Mills in 2015, spearheading a partnership with Cadillac Fairview that will see the Montreal-based brand open in multiple centres across Canada.
As well, “live-in” customers are being added to the centre, with developers building several new condominium towers that will eventually see an estimated 4,500 residents in 2,800 residential units on-site. Mr. Collins explained that three projects have been completed, and four more are in the works. Adding residential buildings to shopping centres is a trend increasingly seen in major malls, and the next wave is expected to include rental towers, according to experts.
A SPACIOUS LAYOUT WITH AN EASILY ACCESSABLE CASH DESK AT LA MAISON SIMONS IN DOWNTOWN CALGARY. PHOTO: SIMONS
Psychologists have long posited that people’s first impressions are formed upon sight. Visual and other sensory cues such as physical appearance, mannerisms, and voice help form an impression of a person. The same can be said of commercial spaces, as consumers often decide if they want to enter a boutique based on their first impression of a shop. Retailers have in recent years been paying increasingly more attention to and analyzing the traffic flow into their shops and determining what factors from a visual perspective draw their customers into the space. We discussed the topic recently with one of the foremost national experts on integrated traffic flow analysis, Sense of Space’s Mark Ainley, who gave us some notable examples of how visual cues can alternatively invite or repel traffic into major stores.
Mark Ainley
Mark Ainley is the owner and proprietor of Sense of Space, a flow and spatial analysis consulting firm based in Vancouver. A longtime practitioner of this discipline, Mark provides both residential and commercial consultations that are designed on a bespoke basis to create the energy and flow his clients seek. His portfolio encompasses condos in Vancouver to palatial homes in Silicon Valley to commercial spaces in Tokyo, with an international clientele from New York to Bali. On a recent trip to Toronto, we invited Mark to analyze a number of commercial spaces and how they align with best practices in flow analysis.
Describe what you do.
I work with home and retail spaces to help create a natural sense of balance and integration. In homes, this means ensuring that everything is functional and having all decor embody the character of everyone living there while reflecting the inherent integrity of the natural world. In commercial properties, I create flow to and within the space so that potential customers are naturally drawn to the space and want to walk through and explore more. The use of colour, lighting, signposting, displays, and accessories – in addition to the overall layout – can all be customized to increase a sense of flow and comfort in the space. It’s a bit like subliminal advertising, but physically throughout the space.
We’ve all walked into spaces, be they private residences or public buildings, where we felt either invigorated and welcomed or oppressed and uncomfortable. The ancient practice of Feng Shui likens the flow of energy to the flow of water and air. The physical world can be aligned so that things feel like you’re flowing with ease like a relaxing stream, rushing like a raging torrent, or stuck and stagnant like a swamp. My training has helped me hone my awareness of what can create a balanced and inviting space beyond what the untrained eye can see, although the feedback I hear in each consultation is that my suggestions are ‘common sense’ … yet it seems that common sense very often isn’t automatically applied! Once it is, the feeling of the space and the experience of those who are there can indeed start to shift for the better.
What are some of the biggest mistakes that you see in commercial properties?
I think the belief that there are spaces that don’t matter is a huge mistake. There are designers who don’t take into account every second of the customer’s experience walking through a property, in particular some of the seemingly less important areas (like staircases, washrooms, rear entrance). Additionally, employee-only spaces are very important: when a business puts on a slick appearance for customers but doesn’t ensure the comfort and ease of their employees, it creates resentment and inequality. Staff rooms and washrooms need to be well appointed. The offices of administrators are extremely important, as their decisions filter down through the entire chain of command to impact the customer. If the executives are uncomfortable and ill-at-ease, they won’t be making the best decisions. Functionality is absolutely key: if there are issues for cashiers accessing bags, pens, or receipts, the flow of a transaction is compromised, while administrators who can’t easily access their paperwork or devices can find their tasks more cumbersome and stressful.
Why is “flow” so important in drawing people into a space?
First I think it’s important to demystify the word “flow“. I think we all have an innate sense of what it is, but it can end up sounding more mysterious and abstract than is really the case. What we’re looking at is a combination of appeal, accessibility, and user-friendliness. Stores create window displays to entice customers to enter and in-store arrangements to encourage them to explore. The flow that I’m looking for is to some degree connected to that – it involves streamlining the visual and physical invitation to enter the space and then to continue to move through it. If customers don’t feel drawn to enter a store, the potential for earnings decreases – it’s as simple as that. Of course there is more to sales than just getting people into the space, but it is a very important first step.
I once witnessed an arrangement in a well-known store on Robson Street in Vancouver that had set up a display table inside the store so that the corner of the table was facing towards the door. Corners look sharp and threatening to our nervous system and are therefore not seen as welcoming (it’s a little like having someone point at you – it feels intimidating and insulting). I stood outside the shop for several minutes and witnessed one potential shopper after another walk up to the door, glance in, and then walk back out and down the street, certainly consciously unaware that they were being repelled from the store by a sharp corner of a table that was doing the opposite of creating an invitation to enter. About one in ten people who went up to the door actually entered the shop. It was astounding to witness! And this is a very popular, well-known store that regularly changes its configurations… it was clear that this particular arrangement wasn’t working for them.
Eye-catching colours and CREATIVE arrangements create an inviting space at hunter store in London, UK.
Why do customers put such a high premium on “welcoming” spaces when they shop? How would this affect business? Would a customer knowingly avoid a shop that they deem to be uninviting?
We all want to feel welcomed in our lives and everyone harbours at least a couple of unpleasant memories of not having been made to feel invited in certain familiar or social situations. If customers are going to spend money at a store, they should most certainly feel welcome. We wouldn’t expect a customer to be willing to spend money when they are treated impolitely, and indeed many businesses have some very clear protocols in place as to how to communicate respectfully with potential clients (not all of them effective, by the way – in fact, overly enthusiastic and chatty greeters can have the opposite effect to what is intended and discourage more introverted shoppers to spend time in the store). If customers don’t feel welcome in the space on a physiological and emotional level, they simply won’t feel at ease enough to feel a connection to the business and what they have available for sale.
I recently went to a very high-end shop in Toronto that I gather is not doing as well as it could, certainly nowhere near what its reputation warrants, and all of the display tables were too close to the product counters – this made it more difficult for customers of even an ‘average’ body size to walk through, let alone someone who might be considered ‘plus size’. This subconsciously translates into body shaming and ends up creating an unwelcoming and even antagonistic environment for some shoppers. Even though I’m on the slender side, the spatial limitation between display tables and counters felt oppressive to me – they weren’t even particularly close, but there certainly wasn’t as much room as there should be for optimal flow, so it certainly would feel like this for anyone of even slightly larger stature. This hardly put me in the mood to linger and look at products, which of course would have an impact on my wanting to spend money there.
Can you give us some examples of shops that exemplify great flow?
The renovated food court at Toronto’s Yorkville Village (formerly Hazelton Lanes) has a wonderful sense of flow: there’s a marvellous seating area where the counter has a meandering wave (much more inviting to sit at than a straight counter and easier for passers-by to walk by) which is outlined in gorgeous rich-toned wood. This space offers a much warmer, more inviting atmosphere than most food courts, which are usually overly metallic and plastic and which can feel very transient and boxy. I was very impressed by the comfortable seating and quality lighting as well.
Nearby, I saw a bustling Italian cafe that everyone apparently raves about – seeing the atmosphere and hearing about its popularity impelled me to go in to try it out myself. There were a couple of tweaks I would make, but the warm inviting colours and ease of access to the order counter (and cash register) made it easy for me to enter and get what I had envisioned wanting when I walked in.
Can you give us examples of where you think flow could be better established to create a more inviting space that would increase customer flow?
Entrances are most important because that’s where we will actually cross the threshold to potentially become a paying customer, so several factors here need to be considered: visibility and lighting, ample space, attractive colours, and appropriate displays are among the key aspects to be considered here.
A while back in Toronto when I walked to the entrance of a famous high-end business, there was a display of 5 mannequins adorned in some aggressive spiky garb just a couple of meters inside the main door. A few things didn’t work here: the five mannequins created a broad display that immediately narrowed down the pathway that allowed for entry into the store; they were facing the door, which made it look like they were leaving the store en masse; and the aggressive clothing made anyone wanting to enter subconsciously feel that they were being accosted by ruffians, the last thing one expects from a high-end shop like this! Three mannequins would be enough for any display (anything more is too distracting), and angling is important to create an inviting and inspiring sense of flow.
A shopping mall that I gather isn’t doing as well as it could be had a rather confusing entrance – sign-posting wasn’t ideally placed, the walkway through a passageway to the actual door was uneven and uninviting, and then next to the staircase heading up into the mall was another staircase going down into a rather undefined space, creating a split view between left and right eyes. Add to this the spiky plants (which look antagonistic) next to the doors and the lack of symmetry in their placement and you have a long list of energetic obstacles that basically cut back on the ease of flow from the sidewalk to the door.
With consultations that can include reviewing proposed floorplans prior to construction to rearranging existing layouts, Ainley can provide practical solutions to streamline the arrangement and ambiance of commercial properties so that they serve consumers, employees, and owners alike.
UK-based fashion brand Hunter, known for its rubber wellington boots, is opening its first freestanding North American location, and third location in the world, in Toronto. The 2,800 square foot store will open in October in the Nordstrom-anchored expansion wing at Yorkdale Shopping Centre, in a retail space located between Samsung and a new Roots flagship that will open later this month.
The store is being designed by Hunter’s in-house interior design team, led by Creative Director Alasdhair Willis (husband of fashion designer Stella McCartney). The store’s design is described as follows: “It reveals the sky and exposes the space to the elements, with the store’s internal envelope acting as a protective canvas to the external landscape lining the perimeter of the space. Visitors will ‘look out’ from the contemporary barn architecture onto a backdrop of the Scottish Highlands – the birthplace of the Hunter brand.” Additionally, Hunter confirms that “in-store weather elements will be changed seasonally.”
Flooring will be fashioned from strips of rubber from the Original green boot, according to a report in WWD, and the store will also feature mid floor tables that will double as seating, using natural oak and Douglas fir.
Hunter’s Yorkdale storefront, which will be about 30 feet wide according to lease plans, will “be reminiscent of a contemporary greenhouse giving the sense that the sky is surrounding customers upon entry where they are immediately immersed into the brand world of Hunter.”
Alasdhair Willis, said: “Toronto’s diversity and vibrancy makes it one of North America’s most exciting places to be and reflects the Hunter ethos, which is why it’s where we decided to open our third stand-alone store and the brand’s first in North America.”
The store will launch by carrying Hunter’s fall/winter 2017 collections for men, women and children, including Hunter Original footwear, outerwear and accessories collections alongside the Hunter Field technical collection. As well, to mark Canada’s 150th birthday, Hunter will release a limited-edition backpack in red and white that will be adorned with a red maple leaf. The ‘Toronto Limited Edition Original Top Clip Backpack’ will be crafted from rubberised leather and it will be exclusive to the Yorkdale location.
According to the report in WWD, prices at Toronto’s Hunter store will range from $14 for a boot buffer set to $575 for a down coat.
Hunter’s first freestanding retail store opened on Regent Street in London in the fall of 2014, with about 5,300 square feet of retail space. A second location opened in the spring of 2016 in Tokyo’s Ginza district, spanning about 3,100 square feet. In Taiwan, Hunter also has a partner store in Taipei.
Hunter Boot Ltd. was originally established as North British Rubber Company in 1856 and it is headquartered in Edinburgh, Scotland with offices in London, New York and Düsseldorf, Germany. In the past, the company was also involved in the manufacturing of rubber tires, conveyor belts, combs, golf balls, hot water bottles and rubber flooring. Being a heritage brand, Hunter holds several Royal Warrants by Appointment as suppliers of waterproof footwear. One of Hunter’s most recognizable products is its ‘Green Welly’ boot, which is now manufactured in China and is favoured by the hunting set.
See below for more photos of Hunter’s London and Tokyo stores.
Major Canadian shopping centres are adding full-sized, full-service restaurants to their properties like never before. It’s a trend recognized by a number of retail experts, with some landlords explaining that they are intentionally increasing space dedicated to food and beverage in order to attract customers, as well as increase revenue. There are challenges to adding restaurants to malls (notes BUILD IT, a construction firm that specializes in restaurant as well as retail construction), though these can be overcome.
Landlord Oxford Properties is in the process of doubling the amount of space that it devotes to food and beverage. In a recent interview, Michael Turner, Executive Vice President for Canada at Oxford, explained that the landlord is looking to eventually dedicate about 20% of its mall space to food and beverage offerings, about double that in its malls today. Canadian malls are following trends seen oversees, with Mr. Turner noting that between 35% and 40% of space in malls in Asia is devoted to food and beverage offerings. Mr. Turner also noted that the landlord’s research shows that about 50% of its customers consume food while at its malls.
Full-service restaurants are definitely a trend being seen in major malls, notes Oren Rubin, Assistant Vice President of Leasing at Mall of America in Bloomington, Minnesota, and formerly a leasing manager at North America’s largest shopping centre, West Edmonton Mall. Mr. Rubin described how West Edmonton Mall was ahead of the curve when it added full-sized restaurants to the mall, creating a themed ‘Bourbon Street’ that is lined with a number of popular eateries. West Edmonton Mall continues to add more space for restaurants, including a busy Cactus Club that is connected to the mall’s Sears store. Mall of America, as well, is adding more food and beverage offerings to create a “complete experience” for visitors, which includes a mix of locals and tourists.
(PARAMOUNT FINE FOODS AT TORONTO’S YORKDALE. PHOTO: BUILD IT)
Mr. Rubin also noted that some restaurants can be highly productive in terms of sales, helping boost the overall revenue numbers for a shopping centre property. Popular restaurants can see revenue well in excess of $1,000 per square foot annually, and some smaller food kiosks and retailers can see considerably more.
John Williams, Founder and Senior Partner at retail consultancy J.C. Williams Group, explained how it is an intelligent move to add restaurants to malls. He described how restaurants are “going where the people are,” and that restaurants, generally, are doing a much better job than in the past in terms of their offerings and decor, and landlords are receptive. Mr. Williams noted that clusters are being created in malls where full-sized restaurants are located, and that this could be considered the ‘future’ of malls in Canada. Toronto’s Bayview Village shopping centre is an example — in a recent profile we did of the centre, we dined in the mall’s ‘Restaurant Lane’ which includes a number of top-notch restaurants.
Observers might notice that restaurants often locate on the edge of shopping centres with an external entrance — at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre, for example, the mall’s JOEY, Jamie’s Italian and, soon, Cheesecake Factory and Cactus club all face outward towards parking lots, while still being connected to the mall. Simon Shahin, President and CEO of Toronto-based construction firm BUILD IT, explained how ventilation is key to ensuring a restaurant operates optimally, though technology can be used for situations where restaurants are contained within a shopping mall property, without an exterior wall. BUILD IT has two specialties — restaurants and retail, and the company recently completed a number of in-mall restaurant projects, including Paramount Fine Foods at Yorkdale Shopping Centre (2,300 sq ft) and at CF Shops at Don Mills in Toronto, as well as a number of interesting projects such as the under-construction Eva’s Original Chimneys at Square One in Mississauga.
(Hopscotch in The PATH PHOTO: BUILD IT)
Mr. Shahin noted that working in malls can be challenging for a number of reasons, but that experience and innovation can make it all work. Space can be tight and there are often neighbouring tenants in close proximity — being a considerate construction company means that about 80% of the noisy work has to be done after hours. There is also some ‘red tape’ in terms of design approvals — BUILD IT works with the entire construction process, from design to fixturing, and shopping mall landlords often have strict requirements for various required processes. “Despite what might appear to be obstacles, there are always solutions,” he noted.
For restaurant spaces that are unable to vent directly to the exterior, ‘ecology systems’ can be used to filter out cooking smells that would otherwise waft through the mall. Ecology systems don’t come cheap, however — Mr. Shahin noted that they can cost $30,000 and go up from there per unit, and they can be a challenge to install, though it’s worth it to be able to utilize some spaces that otherwise wouldn’t be able to support restaurant uses.
(PHOTO: BUILD IT)
Mr. Shahin noted that a restaurant also requires enough power and water to be operational, and that some retail spaces might not meet these requirements in some shopping centres, with upgrades being required. As well, kitchens must have exhaust systems and otherwise meet building code, including having a two-hour fire separation as part of its construction — that is, walls in the space must be able to contain a fire for a minimum of two hours, for safety reasons. “Experience is required to address some of these nuances, and fortunately there are solutions”, he explained.
Toronto’s PATH system is home to a number of restaurants, and Mr. Shahin noted that many units lack appropriate ventilation. At Brookfield Place, for example, BUILD IT installed an ecology system for the Paramount Foods that it built for that location. Some food courts have build-in ecology systems, however, with tenants being able to simply hook into these. “Even though a retail space lacks ventilation, it doesn’t mean that it can’t be used. It just requires the necessary modifications,” said Mr. Shahin.
(KITCHENS AND OTHER ELEMENTS ADD A LEVEL OF COMPLEXITY TO ADDING RESTAURANTS TO MALLS, BUT IT’S ALL MANAGEABLE, SAYS BUILD IT)
Shopping Centres coast-to-coast are adding full-serve restaurants to the mix. At Park Royal in West Vancouver, Chipotle recently opened a unit in the mall’s ‘North’ area, and a large JOEY restaurant recently debuted at Ottawa’s CF Rideau Centre. There are plenty of other recent examples, nationally.
Department stores are also adding restaurants to their properties, with Nordstrom leading the way with a number of in-store dining options. Holt Renfrew is also including restaurants with its renovations and most recently, its CF Pacific Centre location in Vancouver, as well as its Yorkdale location in Toronto, unveiled new restaurant locations with plush interiors and exclusive menus.
If Canadian malls follow the trend of what’s being seen in Asia and other parts of the world, we’ll be seeing more food and beverage options at our local malls. It makes sense, though — people generally must eat in order to survive, and consumers are now spending more at restaurants than on groceries. Adding strong restaurants to a mall’s tenant mix will ultimately drive traffic to the centre, not to mention revenue. Given the recent phenomenon towards stores closing in malls (including Target’s exit in 2015 and, possibly soon Sears Canada), repurposing real estate will be required, and food-and-beverage might be the solution.
OVO October's Very Own at Yorkdale Shopping Centre
Musical performer Drake officially opened his 1,600 square foot OVO October’s Very Own flagship at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre on Saturday, August 5, and crowds lined up for hours to see the new space, causing a commotion at the centre, according to various sources. It’s the fourth location globally for Drake’s OVO retail concept, as well as its second in Toronto.
Construction signage went up at the end of May, when we first reported that OVO would be opening in Yorkdale’s Nordstrom-anchored expansion wing. Last week, Drake released a video announcing the new store, creating a phenomenal amount of hype for the opening.
The new store features ample use of marble and metal, displaying a variety of OVO products. Gold OVO-branded owls are featured throughout the space, including on the store’s facade as well contained in the store’s marble flooring. Product includes OVO-branded apparel and it will also include capsule collections, collaborations, and exclusives as new products are developed. Drake, who’s actual name is Aubrey Drake Graham, is known to collaborate with various designers and brands for limited edition product roll-outs.
OVO at Yorkdale (CROWDS LINE UP IN ANTICIPATION OF THE STORE’S OPENING ON AUGUST 5, 2017)
OVO’s first location opened in December of 2014 at 899 Dundas Street West in Toronto, followed by the December 2015 opening of a 2,400 square foot location at 130 N. La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles. In December of 2016, OVO’s third store location opened at 54 Bond Street in New York City.
Having an OVO store at Yorkdale is a score for the centre, which is really unlike any mall in North America in terms of its first-to-market offerings. OVO gives Yorkdale a new level of credibility among the younger generation, who will also be exposed to the mall’s ample luxury brand offerings. Several very interesting retail concepts will be announced in Yorkdale in the coming weeks, all of which will be first-to-market and will include well-kn
own fashion, technology and outerwear brands. As well, Hunter Boots has officially announced that it will open its third store in the world, and its first in North America, at Yorkdale in October.
All photos are courtesy of Yorkdale Shopping Centre.
(OVO LOGO OVER THE ENTRANCE TO THE NEW YORKDALE STORE)
The Hudson’s Bay Company’s off-price concept Saks OFF 5TH has opened two more Canadian stores, bringing its current Canadian store count to 16. The company’s goal is to operate about 25 Canadian stores by the end of 2018 and given its momentum, that could very well be achieved.
Crowds lined up for two Saks OFF 5TH locations yesterday, and both were special openings. In Montreal at CF Galeries d’Anjou, Saks OFF 5TH opened its very first location to hundreds of excited shoppers, according to our Montreal correspondent Maxime Frechette. And at West Vancouver’s Park Royal, crowds witnessed the unveiling of a large Saks OFF 5TH which is only a short distance away from downtown Vancouver, and the second in British Columbia’s Lower Mainland.
The CF Galeries d’Anjou store spans about 30,000 square feet on one level, and is located in part of the mall’s former Target space (a 29,000 square foot Winners also just opened in the space, across from Saks OFF 5TH). The d’Anjou OFF 5TH is one of three confirmed locations for the retailer in the greater Montreal area — in the fall of 2018, a 44,840 square foot location will open in downtown Montreal and as well, a location will eventually open at Premium Outlets Montreal.
Crowds gathered at West Vancouver’s Park Royal for the opening of Saks OFF 5TH, which has more than 33,000 square feet of retail space in the mall’s ‘Park Royal North’ component. The unique indoor/outdoor Park Royal serves affluent populations on Vancouver’s North Shore, and it is also a relatively short car or bus ride from downtown Vancouver. With British Columbia’s only La Maison Simons, as well as other retailers not available downtown, Park Royal is a draw for much of the region.
Saks OFF 5TH plans to operate about 25 Canadian stores by the end of next year, and it is an achievable goal — the company’s first Canadian stores opened in March of 2016, growing to 16 stores in only 16 months. Saks OFF 5TH is somewhat unique in its real estate choices — while its American stores are typically located in outlet and freestanding locations, several of Canada’s Saks OFF 5TH stores have opened in mainstream shopping centres (including the Montreal and West Vancouver stores). Saks OFF 5TH is moving into more mainstream malls in the United States as well, as of late, including a location at Honolulu’s Ala Moana centre that opened in the spring.
ENTRANCE TO THE MONTREAL SAKS OFF 5TH. (PHOTO: MAXIME FRECHETTE)INSIDE THE MONTREAL SAKS OFF 5TH STORE A DAY PRIOR TO OPENING. (PHOTO: MAXIME FRECHETTE)
Saks OFF 5TH’s current store locations are overwhelmingly in Ontario at the moment, though it has a location in British Columbia at Tsawwassen Mills as well as two stores in Edmonton, one store in Suburban Calgary, a store in Winnipeg, and a store at Quebec City’s Place Ste-Foy. Ontario locations are in the Greater Toronto Area as well as in Niagara and Ottawa.
Off price retail continues to see growth in Canada — TJX continues to rapidly open Winners and Marshalls locations in Canada, and competition will heat up early next year when Nordstrom Rack opens its first Canadian store in downtown Toronto. Nordstrom Rack plans to open between 15 and 20 stores in Canada over the next several years, providing Canadian consumers even more opportunity to acquire value-priced fashions and other items.
See below for more photos of Canada’s newest Saks OFF 5TH stores.
INSIDE THE MONTREAL SAKS OFF 5TH STORE A DAY PRIOR TO OPENING. (PHOTO: MAXIME FRECHETTE)
INSIDE THE MONTREAL SAKS OFF 5TH STORE A DAY PRIOR TO OPENING. (PHOTO: MAXIME FRECHETTE)
INSIDE THE MONTREAL SAKS OFF 5TH STORE A DAY PRIOR TO OPENING.
Montreal-based footwear company ALDO Group has agreed to acquire Camuto Group’s footwear and accessory businesses. The Camuto family will continue to own and operate the Camuto apparel businesses.
ALDO Group Inc was founded in 1972 by Aldo Bensadoun, now boasting more than 3,000 points of sale in over 100 countries around the world. It operates two signature brands, Aldo and Call it Spring, as well multi-brand retail concept, GLOBO. It also wholesales extensively through third party sources.
Camuto Group designs, develops and distributes women’s fashion footwear, and was founded by the late Vince Camuto (he passed away in January of 2015). Camuto’s brands include Louise et Cie, Imagine Vince Camuto, Sole Society and the recently introduced 1.State and Mercedes Castillo brands. Camuto Group also holds the footwear license for Jessica Simpson and the footwear and handbag licenses for Lucky Brand and ED Ellen DeGeneres. Camuto Group products are sold in more than 5,400 doors worldwide.
According to a press release, “this acquisition will significantly increase both companies’ capabilities and reach, and enhance their ability to offer the widest selection of footwear, handbags, and accessories through all channels, including owned stores, franchise, online and wholesale.”
ALDO Group CEO David Bensadoun said, “We’re thrilled to have found a partner that has the skills and infrastructure required to support our vision. Both of our companies are heavily product oriented, and they each evolved in different ways. While the ALDO Group comes from retail and has focused on international expansion, Camuto Group is an expert in wholesale and a powerful player in the US market. We are very excited about the ways the two organizations can help each other grow, leveraging each other’s strengths.”
Camuto Group, which is based in Greenwich, Connecticut, is privately-owned and was founded by late fashion designer Vince Camuto. “A huge part of our attraction to the Camuto Group is an understanding of their amazing design skills, excellent distribution network, and sourcing capabilities. We also believe the ALDO Group’s broad international and cross-channel experience will unlock Camuto Group’s global potential. This is the perfect combination to drive long-term, sustainable growth and strengthen our overall platform,” said Mr. Bensadoun.
“We are excited to become a part of the ALDO Group family”, said Alex Del Cielo, CEO of Camuto Group (he will remain in that role, reporting to Aldo’s Chief Executive). “After our first meeting, I immediately felt the synergy between the two organizations. Camuto Group and the ALDO Group share the same ethics, values and approach to business. We are strongly committed to our people, our partners, our customers and our product. We look forward to serving the global consumer as a unified team and continuing to grow together.”
The ALDO Group will maintain Camuto’s autonomy, each brand’s identity, as well as retaining key talent in an effort to ensure “a smooth transition,” according to the press release. The transaction is subject to customary closing conditions. The terms of the agreement will not be disclosed publicly.
At no time in Canadian history has there been more luxury-inclusive department stores operating in Canada. For decades, Holt Renfrew & Co. had a virtual monopoly in this country, particularly in womenswear, footwear and accessories (Harry Rosen dominated in menswear). Over the past three years, however, things have changed substantially — Nordstrom opened its first Canadian store in Calgary in the fall of 2014 and now has five (and soon, six) locations, and Saks Fifth Avenue debuted its first Canadian flagship at Toronto’s CF Toronto Eaton Centre in February of 2016. More Canadian stores are confirmed to be on the way for both American retailers.
Brian Winston
It’s not a surprise to see so much luxury in Canada, according to luxury retail consultant Brian Winston (referred to as a ‘Guru of Luxury’ by the hosts of ‘What She Says’). He referred to what he’s witnessing as a ‘department store wars’ in Canada, and he has come up with a ranking of what he considers to be the country’s top luxury-carrying department stores, based on a number of metrics.
In summary, Mr. Winston ranks five large-format Canadian retailers as follows, in terms of luxury offerings:
In a conversation with Mr. Winston, he went through and described each of these stores, including their strong points as well as some challenges. The following is a breakdown of each of the five stores.
SAKS DOWNTOWN TORONTO. PHOTO: BILL WALDORF
Saks Fifth Avenue
Mr. Winston ranked Saks Fifth Avenue as being the top luxury department store in the country, based on several factors. He noted Saks’ breadth and depth of designer product offerings, as well as how its stores buy many collections in multiple product categorizations for some brands that include ready-to-wear, handbags and accessories, and footwear. A number of the world’s top luxury brands are carried at Saks’ downtown Toronto flagship that feature hard-shops for their collections, including Dior, Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Celine, Valentino, and even pricey Azzedine Alaia.
Being able to buy a label head-to-toe is key to Saks’ value proposition, he noted, and Saks stocks a wide variety of sizes from various designers. Holt Renfrew, in comparison, has split size ranges across the country and in some instances, smaller sizes will end up in the Vancouver Holt’s because of the city’s affluent Asian population, he noted. This presents issues when the sizes are not present and customers have to prepay to get their size sent from another city.
Saks is the strongest store in Canada in terms of jewellery offerings, explained Mr. Winston. Boutiques for Chopard, Piaget, De Grisogono, Boucheron and others are present at the downtown Toronto Saks store — competitors such as Holt Renfrew and Nordstrom don’t even come close, he said. Women’s shoes are also a strong point, he noted, with a number of premium brands being carried at both of Saks’ Canadian stores. He thinks Holt Renfrew’s shoe offerings/ availabilities are a step above Saks, however, given the vast boutique-lined shoe halls at Holt’s Vancouver and Yorkdale locations.
SAKS DOWNTOWN TORONTO. PHOTO: BILL WALDORF
Given Saks’ large business in the United States, Mr. Winston figures that a number of top luxury brands carried exclusively in retailers such as Holt Renfrew will eventually transfer allegiance to Saks, if they haven’t already. Saks can control more because it has “a bigger pencil” according to Mr. Winston and ultimately controls larger orders and power.
Mr. Winston notes that Holt Renfrew has an extensive history in Canada, having operated since 1837. “They’ve owned the market for a long time, and they are first-in-mind for luxury for many consumers,” he noted, though he thinks that competitors will change that. Mr. Winston has been involved in Canadian retail since the late 1970’s and he described historically how Holt Renfrew went more upscale after the closure of luxury women’s department store Creed’s at Toronto’s Manulife Centre in 1990 and where it has moved over the time since then.
Holt Renfrew carries some of the world’s top brands, says Mr. Winston, though he explained that the retailer has only seven stores (compared to Saks’ 38 in the United States). Because of its smaller size, he thinks that Holt Renfrew lacks the volume to determine the exclusives that its wants. As a result, a number of brands may choose to jump ship, and a few already have — Tom Ford women’s clothing, The Kooples and Zadig & Voltaire are no longer carried at Holt Renfrew, and luxury Italian brand Giorgio Armani’s womens concessions are no longer open in the Bloor Street, Montreal and Vancouver flagships (a Brunello Cucinelli women’s concession is currently under construction in Armani’s former space at the Bloor St. Holt’s).
One of Mr. Winston’s concerns about Holt Renfrew is its limited stock and styles — he described how Holt’s will buy a few styles each year, and the lack of availability can be aggravating both for customers and sales staff. As a result, stock at some stores appears to be minimal. Additionally there has been an “attitude issue” from both floor and buying staff over the years which has permeated the industry, he said.
(PHOTOS ABOVE AND BELOW: HOLT RENFREW)
Mr. Winston pointed to Holt Renfrew’s “inconsistency” over time, which he attributes to the retailer’s management turnover over the past several years. He did note that a considerable percentage of store space is devoted to leased departments (aka concessions), which guarantee a certain return on square footage regardless of results.
Holt Renfrew is making some changes, however — some brands are being dropped, and new ones are being added. As well, the company continues to renovate and expand its existing stores. The top-selling Vancouver flagship is seeing a substantial expansion/renovation that will make it even more world-class (including the recent unveiling of a new lower-level beauty hall). The Montreal store will eventually merge with sister retailer Ogilvy, resulting in the closure of the existing Holt Renfrew on Sherbrooke Street West. Toronto will also see some changes to its Yorkdale and Bloor Street stores, to be discussed at a later date.
PHOTO: HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY
Hudson’s Bay
Mr. Winston noted that the Hudson’s Bay Company has an extensive history in Canada, and that it has carried luxury offerings at its flagship stores for some time. ‘The Room’ women’s luxury department at the downtown Toronto and Vancouver flagships carry a variety of top luxury brands. He described how Margery Steele was instrumental in curating ‘The St. Regis Room’ as it once was at Simpson’s (Hudson’s Bay discontinued Simpson’s in 1991 and converted Simpson’s downtown Toronto flagship into a Bay store), and when Ms. Steele passed, her replacement “wasn’t the same. Ms. Steele had an intimate equity relationship with her clients and they trusted her sense of style and taste,” he noted.
Mr. Winston went on to discuss Nicholas Mellamphy, who was brought in by Bonnie Brooks to overhaul Hudson’s Bay’s luxury offerings. Mr. Winston described how after Mr. Mellamphy’s boutique ‘Hazel’ went bankrupt and shuttered, Mellamphy worked to pull strings to get brands to go into The Room, despite Hudson’s Bay lacking the customer breadth and depth to support the collections. Mr. Winston also described many of The Room’s brands as being somewhat obscure and requiring large stock commitments. “They would bring in 12 to 14 pieces from Mary Katrantzou,” said Mr. Winston, “and you need 12 to 14 customers who don’t know each other to buy those pieces at full price. There are not that many customers in the two markets.”
Despite its challenges, Brian Winston ranked Hudson’s Bay above Nordstrom in terms of luxury designer offerings, given Hudson’s Bay’s daring assortment of fashions that are among the boldest in the country. Mr. Winston also described The Room’s designer shoes as “being limited and with a lot of newness to the market”. (In Toronto, ’The Room’ shoes are mostly in the women’s footwear department on another floor).
THE ROOM AT HUDSON’S BAY TORONTO [OLDER PHOTO] VIA YABU PUSHELBERG
Regarding menswear, Mr. Winston noted that Hudson’s Bay has amplified its luxury offerings, particularly at the downtown Toronto flagship. Brands such as Balmain, Jil Sander and JW Anderson can be found on the men’s floor, alongside boutiques for brands such as Eleventy, PS Paul Smith, Sandro and The Kooples.
NORDSTROM CF PACIFIC CENTRE IN VANCOUVER. PHOTO: CADILLAC FAIRVIEW
Nordstrom
Mr. Winston noted that while Nordstrom carries a number of luxury labels at its Canadian stores, the selection for each brand is less than that at Saks and Holt’s. He discussed how with brands such as Manolo Blahnik, Nordstrom will carry a handful of ‘classic’ styles, but not the extensive “stylistic” offerings found at some competitors. He explained that Nordstrom is looking to show that they are “in designer” in terms of brands that it carries, but that it lacks the depth to make many collections “meaningful”.
Jimmy Choo was an example that Mr. Winston pointed to — he says that Nordstrom’s Toronto stores carry three women’s styles, whereas a more comprehensive luxury retailer would carry between 15 and 18 styles. He also said that while Nordstrom carries a number of notable luxury brands in Vancouver, the Toronto stores struggled to secure some top labels that were already committed to previous contracts with Saks and Holt’s.
In some respects, as a result, Nordstrom is carrying more innovative brands in its Canadian stores. Mr. Winston pointed to the company’s SPACE departments in Vancouver and Toronto as an example. He also noted that Nordstrom is carrying a selection of evening gowns from designers such as Marchesa and Brandon Maxwell and while beautiful “they are not selling”, he says. He noted that evening gowns are worn infrequently and in a “conservative” market such as Toronto, as he put it, women are looking to want “several wears” from a $7,000 gown or piece of clothing, at the very least.
Mr. Winston also described Nordstrom’s luxury menswear offerings as carrying standard brands and pieces, and that the selection “lacks consistency”. He doesn’t think that Nordstrom is “fashion-forward enough” and that pieces “do not make a statement”. He did note that Nordstrom carries Giuseppe Zanotti footwear — an expensive brand popular with youth willing to shell out for a name brand.
ACCESSORIES HALL AT NORDSTROM, YORKDALE, FEATURING DELVAUX, CELINE, VALENTINO, CHLOÉ AND OTHER BOUTIQUES. PHOTO: CRAIG PATTERSONDRIES VAN NOTEN AT NORDSTROM, YORKDALE. PHOTO: CRAIG PATTERSON
Nordstrom ranked below Hudson’s Bay in Mr. Winston’s mind, though he was referring primarily to the downtown Toronto and Vancouver Hudson’s Bay flagships, which both carry upscale women’s department ‘The Room’, as well as some luxury menswear brands.
La Maison Simons
Brian Winston ranked La Maison Simons in fifth place in terms of its luxury offerings, though he noted that Simons does carry a variety of luxury brands for men and women. “Their focus is on French luxury,” he said, noting that a $150 private-label purse might be found next to a $3,000 style. “Simons has been great at taking European influences and recreating them as private labels,” noted Mr. Winston. Women’s collections such as Balmain and Nina Ricci can be found at Simons, though Mr. Winston noted that there are only a handful of each style.
While Simons lacks extensive offerings in shoes and bags, Mr. Winston explained that the retailer’s hosiery selection is “the best in Canada, unquestionably”. He also says that he “loves” Simons’ home department, including how it is edited and its numerous private label offerings.
PHOTO: SIMONS
SIMONS WEST EDMONTON MALL. PHOTO: SIMONS
Conclusion
Regardless of who’s “best”, Mr. Winston says that Canadian luxury retailers have competition from south of the border. “These customers can and will easily travel to New York City by plane to shop in department stores as well as mono-branded boutiques” he said, “and they can also shop online”. Luxury brands are now available more than ever on various ecommerce sites, adding further competition to local brick-and-mortar retail.
Ultimately, the challenge will be to “convince the shopper to pay full-price for what’s in-season” and as a result, the department store wars in Canada will continue. As a result of competition from Canadian and American retailers, not to mention ecommerce, retailers are upping their customer service in order to best cater to clients. “Special delivery, alterations, and something special,” is key he noted. “It is still a very fickle market,” according to Mr. Winston, “and the retailers that cater to luxury consumers the best are the ones that will come out ahead, and not all of them will survive. The sheer size of the market is an issue.”
