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Nordstrom to Exit Canada Discussion: Craig Patterson & Lee Rivett [Podcast]

Nordstrom to Exit Canada Discussion: Craig Patterson & Lee Rivett [Podcast]

Craig and Lee talk about the closure announcement of Nordstrom shutting its Canadian stores. Included in the discussion is how we found out, what might be done with Nordstrom’s stores in Canada, and why the retailer made the shocking move.

The Weekly podcast by Retail Insider Canada is available on Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, TuneIn, Google Play, or through our dedicated RSS feed for Overcast and other podcast players. Also check out our The Interview Series podcast where Craig interviews guests from across the Canadian retail landscape as part of the The Retail Insider Podcast Network.

Retail Insider content discussed this episode:

Transcript

Announcer 0:00
This is a Retail Insider Podcast. You’re listening to “The Weekly”.

Lee Rivett 0:08
Welcome to this week’s episode of The Weekly by retail Insider. I’m Lee Rivett and I’m joined with the owner and publisher of Retail Insider Media, Craig Patterson, to discuss this week’s most read articles on retail-insider.com. So thanks for joining me, Craig.

Craig Patterson 0:22
Hello, everyone.

Lee Rivett 0:23
Pretty much anybody who is into retail in Canada has heard by now that Nordstrom and Nordstrom Rack is exiting Canada and closing all of their stores. So Craig, we pretty much hit the “Publish” button minutes after the Nordstrom announcement that this is going to happen. How did we know in advance to be able to have a comprehensive article ready to go to do that? Because that was quite a feat,

Craig Patterson 0:49
Absolutely. We were notified that parties in the know were firstly saying that an international department store chain would be exiting the Canadian market. Once we actually got information that this was Nordstrom. Firstly, I was heartbroken because the very first article that I ever wrote in April of 2012 (when I founded Retail Insider) was about Nordstrom attempting to come into the Canadian market and what options it had given that some leases from Sears Canada had been made available for this potential expansion. For me to be writing this article, it felt a little bit like seeing a full circle in my own business here at Retail Insider. Once the announcement was made, we had that full confirmation and we were able to put out that pre-drafted story. Which is why, again, it would be really impossible for us to have had a story like that going out three or four minutes after a press release came out saying that Nordstrom was exiting Canada, having quotes from an expert that wasn’t me (not that I’m an expert) having all this information in there. I did it I did quite an extensive analysis on who could replace these locations and that was, a good amount of time was taken to write that thing and some contemplation and whatnot. And then we put in some financial numbers and some quotes from Nordstrom to finish the article off and bada boom, bada bing, we sent it out.

Lee Rivett 2:06
What can we even just go through a quick recap for folks on the facts that we know? For example, how many Nordstrom Rack locations are closing how many full price lineup locations are closing? Even just the rationale that Nordstrom gave for pulling out and closing all of those Canadian store locations in totality?

Craig Patterson 2:24
Yes, so Nordstrom has six full line stores in Canada. Those are located in the markets of Calgary, Ottawa, Vancouver and Toronto. It’s also got seven Nordstrom Rack locations which are in major markets throughout the country. Now the Nordstrom stores measure between 140,000 square feet at the smaller end to the largest one and being in Vancouver at about 230,000 square feet. And then we’ve got those seven Nordstrom Rack stores, they’re a little bit smaller between roughly 30 to 35,000 square feet each. There’s a slightly larger one in downtown Toronto, that’s about 38 to 39,000 square feet, I believe it is. Now Nordstrom has basically said that it had not turned a profit in Canada over at the time that it had been here. For those unaware, Nordstrom entered the Canadian market in September of 2014 with its store in Calgary. Unfortunately since Nordstrom came in back then, the chain has not turned a profit in the Canadian market and lost money year over year. Much like what target had said around 2015, Nordstrom said that it did not see the opportunity or the ability to turn things around in Canada and has decided to cut its losses and run.

Lee Rivett 3:38
Do we know how much money they lost?

Craig Patterson 3:40
Now, some people may not be aware of this, this wasn’t widely reported. But what was found was that Nordstrom had lost about $74 million in 2020. In the Canadian market, unfortunately, its sales in 2022 were about $515 million. I think that’s a little bit indicative that the pandemic did have an effect on sales for Nordstrom. I had some numbers in 2019, which was showing Nordstrom doing a bit over $600 million a year in Canada in just its full line, full price stores (not including the Nordstrom Rack locations). So I think that we did see a little bit of a downturn in some of these locations. Probably a little with the Vancouver store which was doing in the $300 million range before the pandemic. I know that the some of the dynamics there have changed and we did see a bit of a downward trend with some of the stores over the years including the Calgary went a little bit. Now we have some sales numbers to be able to go on in terms of our understanding and that’s really unfortunate as well.

Lee Rivett 4:43
Wow, well 300 million annually for just the Vancouver store – that’s shocking that they’re closing the store. That’s half of the Canadian-wide revenue? It’s 300 million, right?

Craig Patterson 4:52
$300 million annually is what I had been told. This before the pandemic of course, the Vancouver store was doing in Canadian dollars. A little less to the Americans given the currency exchange. At various times, the Vancouver store was the top selling store in the entire company and that includes in the United States. Some of the top stores there were downtown Seattle, Chicago (Michigan Avenue with the shops at North Bridge), and then a store opened in New York City which initially was doing very well.

Lee Rivett 5:25
Sorry to bring it back to the Vancouver store location again, because I’m just flummoxed that it’s shuttering. It’s a beautiful, massive store.

Craig Patterson 5:34
I gotta tell you, when I was told that Nordstrom was exiting Canada, my very first question to my source (who I won’t name of course) was, “And, Vancouver as well?” because I was firstly, a little shocked by the announcement. But secondly, knowing how well the Vancouver store had been doing in terms of sales, and knowing how beautiful that store is. It’s aesthetically pleasing. It’s got all kinds of luxury brand shops inside and it’s quite busy. I was just sent a video by a friend who’s in Vancouver right now and she said it was like Christmas time in the store. It was just packed with people shopping.

Lee Rivett 6:09
But like bringing it back, did you really think that they could have made a ‘go’ at just having one Nordstrom store in Vancouver, as successful as it is?

Craig Patterson 6:17
Really, if you think about it, having one single store in another country that you have to fulfill with warehousing and marketing and all of the other things that are expensive. I think that that profitability specifically in that one Vancouver store may have become profit-losing.

Lee Rivett 6:32
Speaking of profit losing, isn’t there a component of bankruptcy going on here as well?

Craig Patterson 6:37
This was a CCA filing, which is kind of like a bankruptcy filing. And it looks like they would have to do this for the entire Canadian operation. All Nordstrom stores, all Nordstrom Racks in order to fulfill this particular strategy to make the Canadian exit. So with that, the Vancouver store is on the chopping block and is set to close unfortunately. So which really when you look at it is mind blowing given that this is a really high selling store with so much money was put into it. And it’s a well built store and it’s so prominent in downtown Vancouver, it’s takes up almost an entire city block, which not many stores can say that. So it used to be it was built in the 1970s for Eatons. For a time period, it was a Sears after Eaton’s went under in 1999. And now we’re losing Nordstrom so it just seems to be a general progression at CF Pacific Centre of tenants for that space. I think we’re gonna be seeing some new stuff coming up there. Well, we will for sure.

Lee Rivett 7:33
With Nordstrom unloading all of this retail square footage into all these Canadian malls across Canada, what do you think all of these malls are going to do with the extra vacant space?

Craig Patterson 7:43
This is an interesting conversation. And I’m gonna have conversations with some experts to I don’t want to just give my own opinion. But I am today just podcast where you and I talk.

Lee Rivett 7:52
Yes. Well, let’s start going through all the Nordstrom full fledged locations. We’ll go through the Nordstrom Rack was after that, but so starting in the West. In downtown Vancouver for CF Pacific Centre, what’s the details going on there?

Craig Patterson 8:06
CF Pacific Centre is about 230,000 square feet. It’s about three levels of retail space for Nordstrom currently. This is just such a brilliant piece of real estate. It’s got three corners that can be utilized. Say if the store was to be – we call it ‘subdivided’, I’ll use simple language and use ‘demised’. But you’ve got three corners on this block here, there is an opportunity for landlord, Cadillac Fairview (which, by the way, has five of the six large Nordstrom stores and it’s malls in Canada), to extend the mall into that space. So there is an opportunity for them to as a landlord have smaller retailers that may be paying more rent per square foot than what Nordstrom would be, which could in turn be better for Cadillac Fairview. There’s an opportunity for some new brands to come in and even get some really valuable corner space that’s going to have great frontage on Robson Street and Granville Street which is seeing a resurgence and a revitalization of downtown Vancouver. They’re actually I think are some exciting opportunities that could come here in terms of taking this large, single 230,000 or so square foot space and subdividing it for multiple retailers.

Lee Rivett 9:11
Now what about the third floor?

Craig Patterson 9:13
It’s about 70,000 square feet. You can take some second floor. I don’t know if La Maison Simons (the Quebec City based large format fashion retailer which I’m a big fan of) has the budget or the wherewithal, but I do know that a downtown Vancouver store would be very popular and could do quite well hopefully. So maybe there’s an opportunity for Simon’s to take part of the space.

Lee Rivett 9:37
Why wouldn’t Simons take the entire space?

Craig Patterson 9:40
It’s just too big. The largest Simon store is you know, maybe about 120 to 130,000 square feet – if that. So, I would see some space being taken possibly by Simons if it were to come in.

Lee Rivett 9:51
But not the entire thing.

Craig Patterson 9:52
Not the entire thing. But again, this gives Cadillac Fairview an opportunity to make money as well as to get some smaller retail spaces in there. And this gives some brokers in the city (you know the duo at Marcus and Millichap – Martin Moriarty and Mario Negras). Well, it’s really hard in downtown Vancouver to find space sometimes. It’s restricted and landlocked, it’s hard to find the right space. Now that opportunity is there. So I don’t see this completely as a negative at least from a real estate standpoint and from a standpoint of looking how downtown Vancouver could be in the future. So it is still tragic in my opinion that Nordstrom was leaving Canada and specifically closing that beautiful downtown Vancouver store. But looking on the bright side, there is an opportunity to repurpose this away from a department store model and something that’s a little bit more diverse in terms of having multiple tenants.

Lee Rivett 10:37
Taking our wagons eastward across the Rocky Mountains to Calgary, Cadillac Fairview has another mall just south of the downtown called CF Chinook Centre that has a full fledged Nordstrom that’s also going to be shuttering. I know that you just had an interview with Gracie Yan talking about this mall and Nordstrom’s departure there. But give us a little bit of the specifics for folks that haven’t listened to that podcast about Chinook Centre.

Craig Patterson 10:59
So Calgary. This is interesting. It’s the Nordstrom store at CF Chinook Centre in Calgary is at the end of a hallway. I believe it was an Eatons store years ago and then became a Sears. I’m sure there are a few options out there. I mean, given that it’s 140,000 square feet, a retailer like Simons could possibly occupy the entire thing or close to it.

Lee Rivett 11:20
Which it already has a location in downtown Calgary at The CORE.

Craig Patterson 11:24
Which is very unique. It’s about 90,000 square feet, it’s over I think five or so floors or something because it’s just such a unique interesting configuration, including a heritage building, as well as some movement in the former TD square which is now part of The CORE. I don’t know if Simons would want to stores in the market or if it would replace downtown with CF Chinook Centre, who the heck knows. i am sure there are other options out there to get creative. Cadillac Fairview could put a food hall somewhere in there upstairs or otherwise. They could extend the mall in that direction through that space. It remains to be seen, I cannot wait to hear what’s going to happen. But there’s opportunities there but not I think to the same degree as at CF Pacific Centre in Vancouver which has just an incredible opportunity with so much frontage and the fact that it’s not a store at the end of the hallway.

Lee Rivett 12:08
Continuing eastward, let’s hop over to Ottawa for another Cadillac Fairview mall called CF Rideau Centre. Beautiful architecture, beautiful façade. What do you think about that one?

Craig Patterson 12:22
The Ottawa store, I see a little bit similar to what I was talking about in terms of CF Chinook Centre, except for the Simons connection. La Maison Simons already has a beautiful store at the CF Rideau Centre on the other side of the mall. So I don’t know why it would pick up and move over into the Nordstrom space just because it’s already got a good store. I think Cadillac Fairview is going to have to find something new to do that this space here. Years ago, it was an Eaton’s location. I know Holt Renfrew had been looking at taking part of it. I don’t think Holt Renfrew would come back into the Ottawa market. I just don’t think that people in Ottawa buy enough luxury goods. I mean Ottawa doesn’t even have Louis Vuitton store. So that’s pretty basic for a city, especially one as wealthy as Calgary with its population. My thought is that there’s going to be either some sort of mall extension that’s going to happen through there.

Lee Rivett 13:12
But wasn’t Cadillac Fairview going to do a tower build or something on the site as well?

Craig Patterson 13:17
I do know that Cadillac Fairview is involved in building a residential tower on the site. So I have to go and have a look at how its configured but perhaps part or all of it could be demolished. Or the mall could be extended. Who knows? I mean, Cadillac Fairview is going to want something that’s profitable in terms of something that they’re going to put into it that’s going to make money and the world is Cadillac Fairview’s oyster at least I suppose, to a degree. I guess some creative thinking to make money is going to have to be there because again, Cadillac Fairview being owned by a pension fund has a responsibility to its shareholders to try to repurpose it in a profitable manner.

Lee Rivett 13:52
Well, let’s run down to the GTA now. What about the Nordstrom located at CF Sherway Gardens?

Craig Patterson 13:58
CF Sherway Gardens. It’s a good one just because it’s sort of a continuation of this conversation here right now.

Lee Rivett 14:04
And it’s located in Etobicoke, which is east of downtown Toronto and it’s also in a fairly affluent neighborhood.

Craig Patterson 14:11
Yes. That store again, is also about 140,000 square feet. So it’s quite similar to the Calgary location and this Nordstrom store at CF Sherway Gardens was purpose built in terms of this was specifically a box that was created for Nordstrom. So it might have taken the old Brenton spot and maybe use some of the floors. I can’t remember and I don’t know because I wasn’t there for part of that construction. With that again, I mean, La Maison Simons – I just keep bringing that one up because it’s one of the only other large format retailers in Canada that could take a large space like this – it already has a store at the Square One Shopping Centre in Mississauga (which is only a few minutes away by car) so I don’t know if Simons would love to do another store in that location. Who knows. I mean, I heard a little rumor here. I don’t know if this is true. I definitely won’t name the source, but that perhaps Holt Renfrew could look at stepping out of Square One and moving back into Sherway Gardens where it was for years and years and years originally? Especially if Saks Fifth Avenue leaves, which you know, is always a possibility. So other options could be again to subdivide the space into multiple retailers. Also Eataly will be opening a second Toronto location, I thin, towards the end of the year at CF Sherway gardens. And that’s going to be located right by the Saks Fifth Avenue store as it currently is located over in the former Eatons box way over on the other side of the mall. So compared to CF Pacific Centre in Vancouver, I don’t think the opportunity is quite as exciting.

Lee Rivett 14:11
Heading north of the downtown, there’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre, which had a rather large Nordstrom and it kind of had its own wing of that like open to that it’s at the very end. So you kind of have to take a little journey to get to it as well. So what’s your thought for that space – as it’s going to be exiting as well?

Craig Patterson 15:32
Similar conversation to the last few. It’s a store at the end of the hallway, but it’s a little special. That’s store might have achieved flagship status for Nordstrom, at least certainly with the luxury brands that were in there when the store opened in 2016. Lots of luxury brands and Yorkdale at that Nordstrom store as within the mall. So it makes sense that Nordstrom would have tried to carry that theme over just given how expensive the other stores are in other parts of the mall. It has a whole Renfrew as well.

Lee Rivett 16:22
When I take a look at the Yorkdale space that was purpose built for it, it’s beautiful. When I take a look at the downtown Vancouver’s CF Pacific Centre – yes, it took that old Eaton/Sears space and repurposed it into what it is now been beautiful. But this space at Yorkdale is stunning to me.

Craig Patterson 16:42
This was a purpose built almost glass box. I think it has the most glass on the exterior of any store. This is what I was told when the store had opened. It’s about 200,000 square feet. And it’s a lovely space. But it was also built at the end of this hallway. I think that was a mistake. It’s a bit of a trip to get down there. I think that’s why maybe some shoppers didn’t go. La Maison Simons had actually literally announced plans to open a store at Yorkdale years ago and I even wrote an article about it. I forget what year it was, but I think I may have been living in Edmonton. So it might have been around 2015. Part of that space because again, it’s too big for assignments to occupy it. So perhaps some of it could be Simons perhaps some of it could be subdivided into other retailers, or perhaps some sort of a food hall experience could be created there as well. The opportunities there I think it’d be quite interesting. Yorkdale has some very, very wealthy shoppers that do come into the mall to specifically look for some certain stores that are there, as well as the Holt Renfrew and we’ll see I mean Yorkdale has a very, very diverse offering.

Lee Rivett 17:49
Moving into downtown Toronto into CF Toronto Eaton Centre. I think this is the last one we wanted to talk about that so full fledged on Nordstrom, but it’s an iconic landmark that’s a lot of people have to walk through in order to get to and from the the transit system right. So what do you think is going to happen with that location at once it shutters?

Craig Patterson 18:11
The CF Toronto Eaton Centre store presents a little bit of an opportunity like the downtown Vancouver store at CF Pacific Centre, but not quite as good of an opportunity but also a very unique opportunity. So I think ever since Eatons was a department store built within the CF Toronto Eaton Centre in the 1970s you from the north side of the mall as it stands, which now currently is home to H&M, Uniqlo and Samsung among other things, you should literally have to walk through Nordstrom to get on the north side of the mall to the south side of the mall. So with Nordstrom leaving there is an opportunity now for Cadillac Fairview, to actually finally connect the mall north to south. So people will be able to walk in on the north doors at Yonge and Dundas Square and – dear God, I mean if you see some of the people there I don’t know if I’d want them in the mall, but nevertheless – this is going to be something that happens and they come in anyways. I mean, it’s a little bit of a shit show over in the in the Square there if anyone’s ever been. I stand by my words. I know I got criticized in the past but dear God, it’s just absolutely chaotic at some points during the day. But this again is an opportunity for Cadillac Fairview with smaller retailers that are going to be able to be built along this new corridor which would be able to connect the north and south part of the mall.

Lee Rivett 19:21
What about the upstairs?

Craig Patterson 19:24
There could be different things that are done. I mean, so sort of experiences. Perhaps I mean, La Maison Simons does want a downtown Toronto store, at least it did at one time. And I believe that it was looking to take space with Nordstrom, in that former Eatons space, which was most recently occupied by Sears. But whatever planning came about Nordstrom ended up taking those large floorplates and Simon’s did not end up coming in. So there is an pportunity for Simons to come in. There’s an opportunity for some experiences or something to be done as an alternative. Of course given that I don’t know what Simons is like in terms of its financing to open new stores. It is opening a new store and Halifax So clearly there’s at least a little bit of money happening here with the company but the world is is Cadillac Fairview’s oyster for this box because it really is quite well positioned for redevelopment into something else that could be very, very exciting.

Lee Rivett 20:15
To wrap up because that is all of the flagship full price Nordstrom locations, but to touch upon the Nordstrom Racks, what do you think is going to happen for those because there’s not a number of them spread across a lot of the different malls in Canada that will need to be filled as well since that are closing as at the same time

Craig Patterson 20:34
Now the Nordstrom Rack stores will probably be quite a bit easier to fill in Canada, there’s seven of them, as I said before, they generally in the 30 to 35,000 square foot range, the one at Younge and Bloor in Toronto, which I think is considered to be the flagship for Nordstrom Rack in Canada is about I think 38 or 39,000 square feet. So there’s more, you know, more options for something of that size. I mean, landlords can split them these boxes up and put other tenants in there. That could be some grocery tenants want to come in some specialty groceries in that size. You might have Winners or Marshals open a store here, it’s not going to be nearly as challenging. These are not as large of boxes. So you might have a Best Buy, you could have all kinds of stuff. So so I’m not nearly as worried with the landlords that have these Nordstrom Rack locations on their properties.

Lee Rivett 21:20
Two more questions to wrap up the podcast here. But I know that you have a lot of thought leadership and kind of looking over strategies of organizations, you’ve now seen Nordstrom come into Canada, and now leave Canada. Looking back at their strategy, do you think it was doomed to begin with since they began and set foot into Canada? Or do you think something changed along the way that brought us to this point?

Craig Patterson 21:44
This is almost a whole topic for another podcast. But I do have a little bit of insight that probably not a lot of people do. When Nordstrom was looking at coming into Canada, I had a source who I won’t name, of course, who provided me with some interesting documents. And Nordstrom was comparing the Canadian cities that it was going to be entering to American cities to get a better understanding. And they may have missed the mark, because this document that I had showed that Vancouver was being most closely compared to Seattle. I don’t know if I would agree. I mean, both cities have some wealth. But I think that Vancouver given its much larger Chinese demographic as well as other factors with tourism, I think is quite different. Perhaps it’s a bit more akin to San Francisco or even a little bit with LA. The Calgary market was being compared to Denver. And again, I mean, perhaps that’s a good comparison to a degree, but you might want to throw a little bit of Houston, Dallas or Atlanta in there as well. This was before oil prices went down in Calgary, I should say. So Calgary was really a high rolling city, there was a lot of money and it was an exciting time. And I know that there’s been a bit of a downturn but nevertheless, being compared to Denver. Toronto was compared to Chicago, which may not be that inaccurate, but Toronto was also I think, in a lot of ways a more dynamic city. It’s it’s more multicultural, it’s got a different tourism pattern. It’s a different place. Like I just it’s hard for these American retailers to come here and try to say, well, this is almost an extension of the United States. I suppose even Los Angeles given just given some of the sprawl, it’s complicated. And then the worst one, in my opinion, was Ottawa which was being compared to Washington DC. I actually burst out laughing when I saw that because they are very, very different cities. If you look at Washington, DC in terms of the retail Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, you’ve got luxury stores in that city, in as well as in the suburbs. But Ottawa as I said before, it doesn’t even have a Louis Vuitton location. So the shopper in Ottawa is very different from Washington, DC. It’s not a glamorous place. It’s a conservative, buttoned-down government town that’s really quite boring overall. And it’s particularly in the fashion space. So I think Nordstrom really missed the mark in terms of at least comparing Ottawa to Washington DC, but probably didn’t miss the mark and creating a relatively boring store because the Ottawa Nordstrom location really doesn’t have a lot of designer brands in it at the Calgary and CF Sherway Gardens stores are quite similar. But you know, at least they didn’t bring in even a Louis Vuitton boutique. And I think there’s three Nordstrom stores that have them two or three and you know, that that may not have worked out or even worse, bringing in some of the super high end actress or you know, YSL, even Chanel, which Nordstrom has in some American stores. So did it have a good strategy? Well, I mean, I’ll defer some of that to other experts. But certainly, I was not. I was a little bit underwhelmed with Nordstrom and Canada overall, in terms of its stores outside of the Vancouver location, which I think was executed very well. And I just I mean, I think Nordstrom did try and Canada but I think it could have tried a little bit harder. And really, at this point, quitting the Canadian market is very unfortunate, because I’m sure that there could have been some sort of a turnaround. But at the same time now that we know that it lost $74 million last year on sales that we’re struggling probably not.

Lee Rivett 25:06
Well, for the last question of the podcast is more around the American operations. If they’re shuttering everything across the board in Canada, it does beg beg the question if things look as grim for the American operations across their country as well. Any thoughts on what’s happening on that side of the border?

Craig Patterson 25:27
Well, there may be some store closures in the United States for Nordstrom as well, the large format stores that is I don’t know, I’m just guessing I don’t have any information on that specifically. But, you know, we looked at the most recent numbers. The announcement for Nordstrom leaving Canada was made just before the fourth quarter report, that was a broadcast for Nordstrom on Thursday of last week. And we know that things are struggling there. Specifically, I do have some insider information. I was told that the server on a few stores, but I’ll use a couple of examples at the Westfield San Francisco Centre, which is in downtown San Francisco, there’s a Nordstrom store there, which is among the largest, if not the largest of a 380,000 square feet. It’s at the top of the mall. It’s a really strange setup. But you go to the top and it says even the circular escalators, it’s not super convenient to get up there unless you take an elevator. But there’s a Nordstrom store there. That was maybe it’s still considered to be a flagship store given its size, but I was in there in September, and I was massively disappointed with what I saw. That store had not been renovated like it was supposed to have been, that was supposed to been renovated to the standard that you were seeing in Seattle, as well as some of these Canadian stores. And not only was it not renovated, but most of the luxury brands had been pulled out. The collector’s department was really no more. That’s the women’s high end department, the handbag department. So if you look at women’s leather goods was kind of like Michael Kors was one of the higher end brands and years past you would have seen Valentino and you would have seen, you know, Stella McCartney, and you would have seen, you know, these top brands in there. So I was told that sales and absolutely tanked in San Francisco. Part of that could be to the social issues that you have in that city right now is just a disaster. I again, I was there I was shocked at the drug use. And I saw thefts with my own eyes. I saw people stealing stuff from stores. It’s not just on social media or on TV, I thought it’s there. And I was told that the sales have tanked so badly that it’s of a similar sales, seeing similar sales numbers to a typical suburban unit. This is something similar to New York City. My understanding is that originally sales were quite high with the New York City location, but that those sales have since tanked, it was an incredibly expensive investment by Nordstrom to create. Firstly, it opened small men’s store and then it opened this gigantic, women’s and everything else store across the street. That store apparently is not doing very well right now. It’s a beautiful, beautiful store, but maybe in the wrong location. It’s not on Fifth Avenue, it’s kind of off the street a little bit. And there’s a lot of competition in New York City. I mean, even though Neiman Marcus closed and a few other stuff at the pandemic, but um, so the US stores in some cases are not doing as well as they should be. You’ve got Nordstrom, again, having lower sales, it’s got inventory. glut, I think is one of the issues they complained about. And now that there’s this activist investor that’s coming in who’s actually Canadian. I think this was the perfect storm in terms of Nordstrom trying to turn things around which included getting rid of its Canadian operations, which represented about 3% of total sales for Nordstrom. So very, very unfortunate situation. I’m sad that Nordstrom is going to be leaving but remains to be seen what’s going to be happening next with those Nordstrom locations in Canada, as well as other retailers that have been left standing here in this country. Hudson’s Bay, Holt Renfrew and Saks Fifth Avenue, among others.

Lee Rivett 28:45
It’s a sad story that Nordstrom Canada is shuttering. But again, all these new locations that are freeing up space as a new story, new chapter for all these different landlords, so I’m interested to see where that happens. But thanks for going through this and possible opportunities Craig, and chat with you next week.

Craig Patterson 29:04
And thank you so much, Lee, and thank you so much, everyone for listening. Take care and bye for now.

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Why Nordstrom Failed in Canada: Interview with Lisa Hutcheson of J.C. Williams Group

Nordstrom at CF Toronto Eaton Centre (Image: Dustin Fuhs)

Following the close of EuroShop 2023, the World’s No. 1 Retail Trade Fair, Canadian retail expert Lisa Hutcheson returned home to Toronto to learn that American retail giant Nordstrom will be closing its doors in Canada.

Hutcheson, Managing Partner of the J.C. Williams Group, said Nordstrom came in very quickly to Canadian market but there were too many stores in the country, particularly in Toronto.

“They didn’t need to have that many stores,” she said. “I think that was one of the big mistakes. They were slow to get some momentum and then fast forward and the pandemic hit and fashion just took a beating. The category was down in April of 2020, 89 per cent for fashion and accessories. And then footwear also. The whole category just took a beating.

Nordstrom at CF Toronto Eaton Centre (Image: Dustin Fuhs)

“I don’t think that people were thinking of shopping online at Nordstrom to buy anything. If they were shopping online for any kind of fashion or apparel it was in something that was sporting. Loungewear or activewear.

Lisa Hutcheson

“And Nordstrom in Canada I don’t think their online is as prominent either. So they had these giant stores, very fashion forward and then they just didn’t have the population. For example, the CF Toronto Eaton Centre. There’s some tourism back but there just isn’t the downtown worker and the worker that is back is not dressing the same way that they used to. That would impact Nordstrom as well.”

Hutcheson said Nordstrom was really known for customer service in the US which was second to none. They had amazing footwear. But she said she doesn’t think that translated to Canada.

“I never sort of saw these crazy stories. There’s a book written by one of the Nordstrom people years ago and it was all about this incredible customer service. And I don’t think it translated the same way here to get that same customer loyalty as they have in the US,” she said.

“They were known for this phenomenal shoe department. I literally walk right past the shoe department every single day and it’s not legendary like it is in the US.”

From the service to the product selection, there was nothing really special about Nordstrom in Canada and the pandemic was the last piece and it has been just too tough for them to come back from that.

Nordstrom Rack at 1 Bloor (Image: Dustin Fuhs)
Nordstrom Rack at 1 Bloor (Image: Dustin Fuhs)

EuroShop 2023 took place for five days in Düsseldorf, Germany with 1,830 exhibitors. A total of more than 81,000 trade visitors traveled to the Rhine from all five continents.

Hutcheson was one of them.

J.C. Williams Group ​​is the exclusive Canadian partner of the Ebeltoft Group, a global alliance of retail and brand consulting firms, working closely with clients from around the world, to transform their businesses and develop innovative and strategic retail solutions to help face complex challenges today and explore tomorrow’s opportunities. 

Hutcheson said the Nordstrom experience really makes people think about the importance of Canadian retailers looking at Europe and real estate people who are looking for new solutions and tenants to fit the mix in our Canadian market.

“They should really be looking at Europe and not just the US. First of all, we’ve had a lot of US retailers, especially of late, and even including Target, but just sort of think that Canada is the same,” she said. “Whereas I find the European retailers are representing in multiple countries and I think they’ve really figured out before they just move into these other countries how to operate in those countries.

“There’s so much exciting retail in Europe.”

EuroShop 2023 (Image: Lisa Hutcheson)
EuroShop 2023 (Image: Lisa Hutcheson)

Hutcheson said there was a lot of focus at EuroShop on sustainability from an energy point of view and smart stores because of the energy crisis in Europe.

“Thinking about how they build the stores, the lighting in the stores, refrigeration, that whole energy management piece and how retail technology can support that,” she said. “There was energy monitoring, cooling systems, having solar panels on buildings, and things like that. That was a big piece of it.

“Along with the sustainability what we’re seeing from a store design perspective, or store visual presentation, was sustainable mannequins made from recycled products and biodegradable. We saw hangers that are made out of grass clippings and 100 per cent recycled products.”

EuroShop 2023 (Image: Lisa Hutcheson)

Hutcheson said there was also much discussion at EuroShop about third places, third spaces – if place number one is home, and place number two is work, place number three is where people socialize and engage with people.

“It sort of was a hot topic back when Starbucks was in an expansion mode because they really articulated part of their strategy was to be in this third space. When I think a little bit about Nordstrom, when I think about shopping centres and BIA’s (business improvement areas) and downtown areas, I think we need to start thinking about how retail fits into this third place option again in terms of getting people from online to offline and what are those experiences going to be,” she said.

“These are these feel good atmospheres making the shopping centre the main street and the retail an experience and places for people to meet, collaborate, building relationships, really foster a sense of community.

“We’ve always been sort of thinking about cafes. But we do a lot work with museums and libraries and those are becoming these third spaces because libraries aren’t these hush places anymore. The new libraries that we’re getting are meeting spaces, collaboration spaces. There’s really these great spaces that can really enhance retail. Some of these Nordstrom spaces, could they be more than just retail that help create these third spaces? So how do you as a retailer create these kinds of offerings that are going to use some of the techniques out there – lighting, product offering, integration with food service – that really enhance the physical experience and increase those dwell times back up again that some of these areas are really struggling with.”

Youtube video

Hutcheson said there was also a lot of focus at EuroShop on customer centricity and trying to use digital solutions to help the customer engage with the retail. 

“Loyalty, digital coupons, really personalized offers through apps and also providing digital consulting solutions and assistance,” she said. “A lot of use of mirrors, and digital mannequins and other kinds of apps and technology to really engage and get to know the customer and being very specific on enhancing the experience for the customer,” she said.

There’s also emphasis on integrating the digital experience to make the shopping experience for the customer more efficient as well as stimulating the senses of the customer so it’s not just these flat experiences.

She said there’s elements of technology available that can be right for any size business and not just the bigger retailers.

Vancouver-Based Brand DUER to Double Store Count in 2023 [CEO Interview]

Future Duer Storefront at Square One (Image: Duer)

Vancouver-based apparel brand Duer plans to double its retail footprint in 2023 with the first of several storefronts to open in the Square One Shopping Centre in Mississauga in April and are close to confirming a new Toronto location slated to open later this spring.

The brand intends to double its store count from five to 10 this year.

“The Greater Toronto Area is Duer’s fastest growing Canadian market so we’re optimistic about how these stores will perform,” said Gary Lenett, Co-founder and CEO of Duer. “We see our new retail footprints as a way to connect people with the brand but also as community hubs where we can bring the Duer ethos to life.

“We have an ambitious growth trajectory and the market’s preference for sophisticated, comfortable clothing has propelled what’s possible. The momentum hasn’t changed our approach to growth, which is to scale profitably –  and we’re confident additional storefronts in Canada will support this goal.”   

Image: DUER
Gary Lenett

Lenett said the retailer, known for its comfort-driven denim and pants, has a business strategy to optimize brand awareness and interest in the Canadian retail landscape before further expansion into the U.S. and Europe.   

The company on its website says it is on a mission to eliminate plastic (oil-based fibres) from its apparel and currently 95 per cent of fibres used are plant-based or recycled.

The retailer has locations in Vancouver, Toronto, Calgary, Denver and Los Angeles. The Calgary, Denver and Los Angeles stores opened during the pandemic.

Duer began a few years ago with a popup store in its design office which was in Railtown in Vancouver in 2016. The first permanent store opened shortly after that in Gastown in Vancouver. 

The Square One location is slated to open April 1 followed by another location in Toronto in the spring, which the brand is close to confirming.

“We’re actively looking at Ottawa, Montreal, Edmonton and then perhaps another store in the Lower Mainland of Vancouver. The Toronto market is our greatest, fastest growing market right now. We think we could easily have three stores in the Greater Toronto Area,” said Lenett.

DUER at 491 Queen Street West (Image: Dustin Fuhs)

“We really believe that we had to have brick and mortar stores in order to get our brand across. We’re an omnichannel business. We want to meet customers where they want to shop. So if they want to shop online, great. We don’t see us as having 100 stores in Canada or even in North America. We’re not trying to be another lululemon in terms of our retail footprint.

“Some of our customers want to shop in store. They want the full assortment and some of them want to shop with our wholesale customers, other retailers like MEC. We sell to everybody from Holt Renfrew, Sporting Life, Harry Rosen, Simons. We believe that’s our secret sauce. We don’t really favour one channel over another. Obviously, our margins are a little bit better on our direct channels. But we really feel we have to be customer centric and modern and let people shop where they want to shop.

“We have to have sort of a minimum amount of outlets in order to achieve that. The major cities in Canada are no brainers for us. Our units are very profitable, so it makes sense.”

Image: DUER

When Lenett conceived of the idea for Duer, he went to an old friend of his in the business. He told him that if he was going to do this right – really build a brand properly – then he couldn’t go to third-party factories. Lenett wanted the company to have its own factory so the brand could be built out the right way.

“My partner who started this factory and is pretty much fully dedicated to Duer, he owns 50 per cent of the company. I basically gave away 50 per cent of the company because I thought that supply chain piece was so important to building a brand properly,” said Lenett.

“The brand was all about me wanting to simplify my life. I gave up my car for a bicycle. It was about me not being able to find anything that I would wear throughout my day. Duer is about making it simple for someone to find clothing that they can do everything they do in a day. I couldn’t get a trademark on doer so I called it Duer.”

Uniqlo to Enter Ottawa Market with Ongoing Canadian Store Expansion

Artist’s rendering of UNIQLO Square One Shopping Centre (CNW Group/UNIQLO Canada)

Japanese fashion retailer Uniqlo announced that it will enter the Ottawa market this year with its first store. It’s part of a national expansion for Uniqlo that will see it operate locations in the Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver, Edmonton, Calgary and Ottawa markets by the end of the year. 

The Ottawa store at CF Rideau Centre will span about 15,000 square feet, carrying a range of Uniqlo’s in-house brand ‘LifeWear’ for men, women, and children. 

Daisuke Tsukagoshi

“We are proud of our strong connection to Canada,” said Daisuke Tsukagoshi, CEO, UNIQLO North America. “Opening in the nation’s capital marks an important milestone in UNIQLO’s progress; it will allow us to strengthen our relationship with Canadian shoppers and introduce LifeWear to new guests – that clothing is made for everyone every day.”

The CF Rideau Centre store will open in June in a third-level retail space formerly occupied by Victoria’s Secret as well as retail space behind it. 

Image: Cadillac Fairview
UNIQLO at Fairview Pointe Claire (Image: UNIQLO)
Grand opening of the CF Richmond Centre store near Vancouver in 2018. Photo by Ritchie Po
Exterior of Uniqlo at CF Toronto Eaton Centre (Photo: Dustin Fuhs)

While it hasn’t been officially announced by Uniqlo, a recent article in Retail Insider revealed that Uniqlo will enter the Calgary market later this year with a store at CF Chinook Centre. It will be the second store for Uniqlo in the Alberta market, following the 2019 opening of a storefront at West Edmonton Mall in Edmonton.

Uniqlo currently operates 16 stores in Canada. 

Uniqlo entered the Canadian market in September of 2016 when it opened a flagship store at CF Toronto Eaton Centre in Toronto. A second Toronto flagship opened a month later at the Yorkdale Shopping Centre. Uniqlo now has seven stores in the Greater Toronto Area with other locations being at Square One in Mississauga, Vaughan Mills north of Toronto, CF Markvile in Markham, Upper Canada Mall in Newmarket, and at Oshawa Centre in Oshawa.  

Uniqlo’s first store on the West Coast opened at Metropolis at Metrotown in Burnaby in October of 2017, and subsequently opened locations at CF Richmond Centre in Richmond, Coquitlam Centre in Coquitlam, and Guildford Town Centre in Surrey. 

Future Uniqlo store where Victoria’s Secret once had a store at CF Rideau Centre — photo by Dustin Fuhs
Further view of the future Uniqlo store where Victoria’s Secret operated at CF Rideau Centre — photo by Dustin Fuhs

Uniqlo’s first store in Montreal opened in October of 2020 in the city’s downtown core at the Montreal Eaton Centre. It remains the largest Uniqlo location in Canada with over 40,000 square feet of leased space facing Ste-Catherine Street. In 2021, a store opened at CF Carrefour Laval near Montreal and in 2022, two other units opened at CF Fairview Pointe Claire and CF Promenades St. Bruno. 

Jeff Berkowitz of Aurora Realty Consultants represents Uniqlo as broker in Canada and has negotiated all of Uniqlo’s store leases in this country. 

Foot traffic patterns may change at CF Rideau Centre in Ottawa following the announcement last month that Nordstrom will be exiting its Canadian operations. The downtown Ottawa mall houses a 157,000 square foot Nordstrom location which will shut by the summer, along with all Canadian stores. CF Rideau Centre is also home to a large La Maison Simons store as well as some notable upscale retailers such as Harry Rosen and Tiffany & Co. 

Uniqlo said in a statement that it has a five year plan to operate about 200 stores in North America, with plans to open about 20 stores a year into 2027. 

Uniqlo is owned by Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. which is one of the world’s largest fashion retailers. In 2022 it saw sales of about USD$16.6 billion. The company has a total of more than 2,400 stores across the world. 

SAXX Underwear Launches 1st Immersive Shop-in-Store at Hudson’s Bay Flagship in Toronto [Interview/Photos]

SAXX at Hudson's Bay Queen Street (Image: SAXX)

Men’s underwear brand SAXX has launched its first immersive in store experience in the Hudson’s Bay flagship location in downtown Toronto on Queen Street.

The concept has started in a 400-square-foot space in the high-profile retailer’s space, showcasing its innovative underwear from everyday to athletic performance and expanded apparel collections.  

Wendy Bennison

“As a Canadian based company, working with Hudson’s Bay, Canada’s iconic oldest company and a retailer known as a destination for style and quality, we could not have found a more appropriate place for SAXX’s first shop-in-shop location,” said Wendy Bennison, SAXX CEO, in a statement. 

“At SAXX we are obsessed with ensuring men are comfortable throughout their day, this space will allow us to showcase the support of our propriety BallPark Pouch™, the cooling benefits of our DropTemp™ Cooling technology, as well as some of our newer collections such as swim, athletic apparel, sleep and socks.” 

SAXX at Hudson’s Bay Queen Street (Image: SAXX)

Adam Craig, Vice President of Sales for SAXX, said The Bay approached SAXX in January 2020 about the opportunity of putting a fully immersive SAXX store into the flagship store on Queen Street but the pandemic put those plans on hold.

“This has been a vision and something we’ve been imagining how we would bring it to life for a number of years,” he said.

The company, which is based in Vancouver, was founded in 2006. The company began its business through wholesale with its primary source of distribution out of the gate, working with retailers as well as distributors. Then the direct to consumer side of the business came about.

“If you think back, in 2015 our direct to consumer business was right around 15 per cent of our business. Over 85 per cent business was done through wholesale,” said Craig. “Wholesale is still a big part of our business so you’re going to find us both on the direct to consumer side of the business which is an important part where we work direct with the consumer but also our primary channels of distribution are going to be sporting goods, outdoor retailers, department stores, better men’s and contemporary stores, as well as we sell in some lingerie stores,” said Craig.

SAXX at Hudson’s Bay Queen Street (Image: SAXX)

At the wholesale level, the brand is sold through SportChek, Mark’s, The Bay, MEC, Harry Rosen, as well as some of the larger better known stores in the US.

“One of the unique things of our business is the balance between our bigger box retailers and our specialty business. Roughly half of our business is done through our independent specialty accounts. So it’s a lot of the mom and pops that really do a beautiful job of curating intelligent product stories.”

With consumers now returning to the stores following the pandemic, it was a natural progression for the retailer to open a physical presence.

SAXX at Hudson’s Bay Queen Street (Image: SAXX)

Craig said the company does envision more of these locations opening in the future.

“We have a strong desire to launch one in the United States before this holiday 2023. That is something that is on our radar to be able to execute but I think in general as consumers are moving back into physical retail environments and foot traffic was up across almost all channels of retail last year from all reports we’re seeing, we really want to make sure we’re doing a better job elevating our brand’s messaging and the storytelling,” he said. 

“So at SAXX we’re looking at not only trying to do more versions with what we did with The Bay but in total elevate our physical presence at retail.”

Craig said the company has thought about establishing its own branded stores but right now it believes the best opportunity is leveraging the expertise of its wholesale partners who do that really well today. 

“That’s where we see scale being in replicating what we did with The Bay with other retailers that know how to be great retailers in a physical environment versus teaching ourselves that skill right now. It’s something on a longer term road map, though,” he said.

SAXX at Hudson’s Bay Queen Street (Image: SAXX)

The retailer said key features of the concept area include:   

  • A deconstructed pair of SAXX underwear, that helps shoppers visually experience the BallPark Pouch™ technology; 
  • An educational zone to inform shoppers about the benefit of DropTemp™ – SAXX’s newest cooling technology in their self-care routine; and  
  • Humorous moments that nod to the brand’s focus on keeping gentlemen comfortable,  including a mirror that reminds shoppers to “Keep your eye on the ball” and a ball-shaped seat with the text “Gentleman’s chair.” 

Craig said The Bay location is the first retail environment where customers can see the depth and breadth of all of the product categories that SAXX has to offer.

Holt Renfrew to Relocate Standalone Men’s Store on Toronto’s Bloor Street Back into Flagship

Holt Renfrew Men at 100 Bloor St. W. in Toronto. Photo: Dustin Fuhs

Luxury multi-brand retailer Holt Renfrew has announced that its standalone men’s store at 100 Bloor Street West in Toronto will be relocating back into the 50 Bloor Street West flagship store nearby where it had operated for years. The new men’s store will be located on the third floor of the larger Holts and will open towards the end of 2024. 

The current Holt Renfrew Men store at 100 Bloor opened in September of 2014 in a 16,500 square foot space that was formerly occupied by Roots and The Body Shop. The men’s store currently houses a range of brands, including a second-level concession space for Gucci. 

Prior to opening its standalone store, Holt Renfrew’s men’s department was located over two levels within the 190,000 square foot Holt Renfrew flagship at 50 Bloor Street West — that included space on the street level as well as part of the basement, which now houses a beauty department

The Holt Renfrew ‘mothership’ at 50 Bloor Street West in Toronto. Photo: Dustin Fuhs
Click image for interactive Google Map
3rd floor wayfinding at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W — part of the floor will become the new men’s store. Photo: Dustin Fuhs

As part of the new third floor men’s department, Holts said that there will be “new multi-use experience spaces”. And menswear won’t be the only category on the third floor, which spans less than 30,000 square feet. Holt Renfrew said in a statement that women’s contemporary fashions, which are already housed on the third floor, will remain there (though obviously in a smaller space). Holt Renfrew’s socially-drive department ‘H Project’ will also be located on the third floor after the renovations. Construction will involve Green Build upgrade including a new HVAC system for better temperature control and airflow. 

The design of the new men’s store will be “bold and modern” according to Holt Renfrew, allowing for “benefits and service opportunities”. Last year a sales associate mentioned to a Holt Renfrew journalist that it would be a good idea to have men’s on-site — if a female customer wanted to shop for her husband, for example, she and the sales associate would have to travel up the street to the standalone men’s store. 

Holt Renfrew has already been investing heavily into its larger Bloor Street flagship store, including a renovation to its women’s designer floor on level two. Since last year, new boutique spaces have opened for luxury brands Chanel, Gucci and Celine for women, as well as The Studio which is an Instagrammable space catering to stylists as well as offering a unique place to try on clothing. Renovations are ongoing on the second floor, following renovations to the street level which includes 12 luxury brand concessions as well as the basement level housing beauty brands including a standalone Chanel Beauty concession

3rd floor women’s contemporary department at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W. in Toronto. Photo: Dustin Fuhs
Wayfinding/store guide, photo taken from mezzanine looking towards levels 2 and 3 at Holt Renfrew in Toronto, 50 Bloor St. W. – photo by Dustin Fuhs
Display on the 3rd floor of Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W. in Toronto. Photo: Dustin Fuhs

Currently the largest men’s store for Holt Renfrew is in Montreal, contained within the Holt Renfrew Ogilvy store which opened fully during the pandemic. That men’s store spans about 40,000 square feet on the fourth floor of the store, with the Vancouver store’s men’s floor being the second largest. 

The exit of Holt Renfrew Men from 100 Bloor Street West provides an opportunity for another luxury retailer to occupy the space — or possibly more than one, given its size. Retail Insider will follow up on this when we learn more about what’s happening. 

Holt Renfrew also said to Retail Insider that after Mother’s Day on May 14th, the restaurant at the Yorkdale Holts store will close to eventually be repurposed into retail space. The goal is to increase sales in the store as well as foot traffic. Details will be released later this year — Holt Renfrew told Retail Insider that it will involve “an exciting key brand development, who will significantly expand their offering and experience in the store”. 

Holt Renfrew also said that its growing its e-commerce business by launching eConcession, where the store’s leased brands can showcase their assortment. A substantial number of brands at Holt Renfrew stores are in concession spaces, including names such as Gucci, Prada, Dior, David Yurman, Burberry and others. Holt Renfrew is the dominant multi-brand luxury retailer in Canada with many brands not carried at either Saks Fifth Avenue or the soon-to-close Nordstrom chain. 

Canadian Retail News From Around The Web For March 16th, 2023

Canadian Retail News From Around The Web

News at a Glance

Retail Insider is streamlining its Canadian retail news from around the web to include a handful of top news stories that can be viewed quickly during the day. Here are the top stories from the past 24 hours.

Couche-Tard revenue rises to record, but profits drop amid higher costs (Financial Post)

Canadian Tire tops list of most respected retailer: Survey (Toronto Sun)

Canadians may be feeling the pinch at the grocery store but not as bad as elsewhere (CJWW)

Why Canada is a tough market to crack for U.S. retail giants (Modern Retail)

Metro Ontario and Too Good To Go announce province-wide partnership (Grocery Business)

Fire & Flower Expands Market Presence in Winnipeg to Five Cannabis Retail Store Locations (MarketScreener)

Small businesses may be forced to lay off staff or close to repay pandemic debt, survey finds (Ottawa Business Journal)

New Leasing Opportunities at Cornwall Square (Choose Cornwall)

BMW Group Canada celebrates retail partner excellence with inaugural Retailer of the Year program (BMW)

Melcor launches commercial, retail plans for Calgary’s Greenwich village (Real Estate News EXchange)

Black Woman Market exceeding expectations in Montreal retail (CJAD)

Penticton Nissan store sets sales record near five-year anniversary (Canadian Auto Dealer)

The Mushroom-Zombie Mall From The Last of Us Is Getting Redeveloped (re Calgary’s Northgate Mall – Curbed)

Canadian Women’s Undergarment Brand Knix Expanding Further with Stores and Significant Growth [Founder Interview]

Knix on Robson Street (Image: Martin Moriarty)

Joanna Griffiths launched Knix with the goal of transforming an underwear market that had too much frill and not enough function. 

Today, the retailer is a trailblazer with its comfortable wireless bras to super absorbent underwear, which are designed to make women feel more comfortable in their own skin.

Joanna Griffiths

While the company has experienced spectacular growth since its inception in 2013, Griffiths, Founder and President, said the retailer sees great potential for future growth.

“There’s two different things that are resonating with customers about Knix. The first one is from a product standpoint we’ve been really listening to customers and have thought about a more human centric approach to design taking into account our customers . . . what it is that’s important to them, bringing a lens to design that’s brought into the intimate apparel industry previously,” said Griffiths, who recently was named Canada’s EY Entrepreneur of the Year.

PHOTO: KNIX

“Historically a lot of the intimate apparel brands were being led by men but creating products for women. So a lot of the products historically have been designed (and) aren’t necessarily the most comfortable or versatile or taking into account the wear and so at Knix we’ve really engineered products for real life. We’ve been ahead of a lot of the bigger trends that have taken place within the intimates category. Our first product that we launched with leakproof underwear, or period underwear, we were pioneers, inventors of that category. That has become a billion-dollar category. You see other retailers like Victoria’s Secret, Aerie carrying that product as well.

“Primarily we were one of the first to market with wireless bras and now if you look at macrotrends within the intimates category, wireless bras are the fastest growing bra style or category group within the broader landscape. From a product standpoint we’re making products that really speak to the customer and the way they are choosing to live their lives now.

“And from a brand standpoint, we’ve, out of the gate, set to create a more welcoming and inclusive brand. We were very early in body diversity, inclusivity, welcoming customers of all shapes, sizes, ages. And that obviously is a message that’s really sticking out with consumers.”

Knix on Robson Street (Image: Martin Moriarty)

The first store was launched in Kitsilano in Vancouver in October 2019. Currently, there are seven stores – four in Canada and three in California. The Canadian stores are in Vancouver, Calgary, Ottawa and Toronto. The California stores are in Santa Monica, San Diego and San Francisco.

Griffiths said Knix is opening a second Vancouver location in the spring on Robson Street as well as an additional two or three Canadian locations later this year.

She said store sizes vary. The initial Vancouver store was about 750 square feet. It was relocated last year and now the retailer typically looks for stores of about 2,500 to 3,500 square feet.

“We’ve been adding about three to four locations a year historically and that seems to be the pace we’ll continue to add for the foreseeable future,” said Griffiths.

Martin Moriarty and Mario Negris of Marcus & Millichap team handled the transaction for the 1150 Robson Street Location, which was formerly occupied by American retailer Eddie Bauer.

Knix on Queen Street in Toronto (Image: Knix)

She said she started Knix with the idea of making great looking leakproof underwear as she saw a huge gap in the market to solve a pain point many people were experiencing.

It was her ‘aha’ moment as she felt whoever did this well would ultimately be very successful and create a product many needed.

“I then picked up on two big themes within the intimates landscape. The first one was there had been really little product innovation. There hadn’t been a lot of focus in making products that were designed for people with real lives,” she said.

“And the second was identifying that there was space within the intimates landscape for a different kind of brand. When I launched the company in 2013, I’d been working on it for a couple of years.”

Knix on Queen Street West (Photo by Dustin Fuhs)

At the moment sales are focused on Canada and the US.

“But we see demand for our products well beyond North America so we see that potential for longer-term expansion setting our sights outside of North America as part of that,” said Griffiths.

The retailer has expanded its product offering over the years and most recently it entered into the activewear category. The assortment also includes shapewear, sleepwear, swimwear, loungewear as well as a teen brand.

“We’re playing in a pretty large category space so it’s really about now going deeper into the categories that we’re already playing in and also thinking about diversifying our revenue channels,” explained Griffiths.

“Currently 100 per cent of our sales come from selling online through our website and then our seven retail stores. And now we’re starting to think about wholesale, retail partnerships. We just launched on Amazon in the US. Even that is a new channel for us. There’s actually so much room for us to grow and expand, be it going deeper into the categories we already have, expanding our distribution through third parties, adding more retail stores and thinking about international. We’ve got our hands full at the moment.

“But we always feel we’re just getting started. I hope we’re constantly a brand to watch to see what it is we do next.”

Knix Founder & President Joanna Griffiths is Canada’s EY Entrepreneur Of The Year® 2022

She said she was very surprised with winning Canada’s EY Entrepreneur of the Year 2022 Award.

“I think when I look at the course of building Knix we’ve had a lot of terrific successes but I’ve also faced quite a lot of criticism along the way that it was too niche and that it was never going to be a big business. So it was extremely validating to win that award and that honour,” said Griffiths.

“I worked in media and entertainment before starting Knix. I worked at CBC, and the Toronto International Film Festival and Universal Music. In music, you have the Grammys, in film you’ve got the Oscars and in TV you have the Emmys. So I feel like getting to go to Monaco and compete for the global EY Entrepreneur of the Year Award is kind of my equivalent to those awards. It’s a big honour and really a testament to what it is we’re building at Knix as well.”

Upscale Women’s Retailer Andrews Relocated Yorkville Village Store to New Space [Interview]

Andrews at Yorkville Village (Image: Andrews)

Andrews, a Toronto-based family-owned upscale womenswear retailer, has opened its new location in Yorkville Village, replacing another storefront nearby in the mall that operated for several years.

Though the doors of Andrews were opened in 1990, the heritage of Andrews goes back much further. Starting in the 1940’s at Holt Renfrew, the family has a long history in fashion and retail in Canada. 

“Every dinner conversation, every car ride, every trip was completely immersed in fashion and retail – with a passion to serve the customer,” said Darren Mason, President of Andrews.

Andrews at Yorkville Village (Image: Andrews)

Its four locations now cover the Greater Toronto Area – Bayview Village to Yorkville Village to CF Sherway Gardens to Oakville with further afield clients who shop online from across Canada.  

“We’re continuously fine-tuning and tailoring the experience we offer to our clients – from every season’s curation of our fashion offering to mindfully considering what can be offered alongside in lifestyle, home, and artware; or how we can further elevate our client’s time with us in an experiential way – in-store or offline,” said Mason.

“With the new location at Yorkville Village, it is a revitalized return to that experience of a luxury shopping destination, once known as Hazelton Lanes, and the authenticity of Yorkville and what we have to offer with our latest curation of elevated casual and contemporary luxury fashion.

“Our company’s mission is ‘to inspire every woman’s personal style by encouraging creativity, individuality, and confidence.”

Andrews at Yorkville Village (Image: Andrews)

Mason said offline Andrews will be looking at exploring options to propagate successes from its concept store in Oakville to its other stores. 

“We want to stay with that experience of the individual, making time spent by clients with us more experiential and connecting them with expressions of beauty that resonate – in fashion or lifestyle,” he said.“Our clients are our compass. Online, we will soon be relaunching an improved website to offer customers a more dynamic and seamless online shopping experience.”

The newest store is on the upper level of Yorkville Village, beside the Hazelton Avenue entrance. A former location was located up the hall facing a central atrium.

Featuring the latest in modern luxury, the newly relocated store offers a highly curated collection of upscale fashion and accessories from around the world. 

The store is 4,000 square feet and features an abundance of natural light streams through large arched windows and Andrews said the vibe recaptures the charm of this upscale shopping destination, which was known as Hazelton Lanes and the authenticity of Yorkville.  

“We’re delighted with our new location in Yorkville Village,” said Mason. “The Yorkville neighbourhood has long been the epicentre for fashion and lifestyle retailers, we are very proud to have been a part of this dynamic community for more than 30 years. The store is uniquely situated amongst a bustling array of lifestyle retailers including art galleries, health and wellness studios, restaurants, and floral designers.”

Andrews at Yorkville Village (Image: Andrews)
Andrews at Yorkville Village (Image: Andrews)

The new Yorkville location is part of Andrews’ overall strategy to reinvigorate the brand for future growth. Last fall, the retailer opened its first lifestyle concept store in the heart of downtown Oakville. The standalone store features the latest in modern, curated apparel, alongside lifestyle, home, and vintage designer pieces from across the globe.  

The retailer describes its new Yorkville location like this:

“The store offers an experiential layout for customers to explore collections that speak to the distinct, yet overlapping personas of their individual lifestyles. Conceptualized from the Japandi style of interiors, the naturalistic environment is punctuated by modern fixtures which seamlessly complement the building’s arched statement windows,” it says.  

“Tailored to Yorkville, the store features elevated casual pairings of fashion favourites with contemporary looks from Eleventy, Fabiana Filippi, Frank and Eileen, and Max Mara.  Denim remains a staple with coveted brands such as AG Jeans, Citizens of Humanity, Frame, and Mother. New fashion-forward brands this season include Danish fashion-house, Munthe, NY eco-accessories darling, Naghedi, and LA-based celebrity favourite fashion brand, Rhode, all of which fuse together in this expertly curated environment.”

CrossIron Mills Near Calgary Sees Strong Leasing Activity with New Tenants Added [Interview]

CrossIron Mills (Image: Ivanhoe Cambridge)

Leasing activity has been incredibly active in the past year or so at the CrossIron Mills shopping centre just north of Calgary’s city limits, in Balzac.

The 1.2 million-square-foot mall, owned by Ivanhoé Cambridge and managed by JLL Canada, has very little available space currently and leasing demand continues to be quite strong.

James Moller, Vice President, Regional Manager, Alberta and Manitoba, for JLL, said in the past year or so the following retailers have taken up space at the shopping centre – Harry Rosen Outlet, Bailey Nelson, Lovisa (a jewelry brand), New Balance, Clarks Shoes, and Specsavers.

CrossIron Mills (Image: Ivanhoe Cambridge)
CrossIron Mills Site Plan (Image: JLL)

“Now we’re into 2023 and we’ve got strong interest in leasing space. Retailers after a couple of years of putting the brakes on opening stores, are looking to open and expand their businesses,” said Moller. “So it’s been really busy the last six or eight weeks, negotiating leases and trying to figure out how do we get some of these retailers open in 2023.

“Another retailer is taking possession of their space April 1. It’s called Uncle Tetsu. It’s a Japanese bakery and they’re going to open this summer.

“There’s about half a dozen or more deals in the pipeline that we’re just trying to finalize negotiations so we can get them open before the end of the year as well. It’s been very resilient the last 12 months.”

CrossIron Mills (Image: Ivanhoe Cambridge)

With the demise of Bed, Bath & Beyond, CrossIron Mills will be losing one of its anchor tenants but interest is high for that space already.

“They’re in their winding down phase. I would imagine we’ll get the store back in the next 30 to 60 days. We have very little vacancy. We have no vacancy in the anchor positions. This is a really good size unit (32,000 square feet), facing Highway 2 (Queen Elizabeth Highway) on the front side of the building. We have very strong interest in leasing the space. I have no trouble thinking that we will have a replacement announced probably before they actually even leave,” said Moller.

CrossIron Mills (Image: Ivanhoe Cambridge)
CrossIron Mills (Image: Ivanhoe Cambridge)

CrossIron Mills has about 220 stores and there is only one vacancy in the building.

“There’s a few leases that are expiring and a couple of the units we have what we call temporary tenants and they will make way for these new tenants coming in this year,” explained Moller.

Recently, in an interview with Retail Insider, Julie Bourgon, Head of Retail, Canada, with Ivanhoé Cambridge, said the company is exploring ways to densify some of its properties across Canada, joining a growing trend in the retail industry. She said property owners look at shopping centre assets differently today than they did a few years ago.

“On CrossIron specifically there is excess vacant land that Ivanhoe owns and it has been a topic of conversation and strategic planning with Ivanhoe about how best to maximize value,” said Moller. “Those conversations are going on and Julie’s comments are right in line with what we’ve been looking at and talking about. So nothing to announce but it is a strong possibility.”